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Yes, you need to clean that gas cap vent again before you can do any tuning. No, I don't think it's a common or reoccurring issue. I've never had it happen in many years of ownership. I think you probably just didn't get it cleared out good enough the first time. Yes, I think 145 mains are too...

Yes, the nut is installed backwards. The shoulder on it should face in. That will put the "flats" on the nut out further and make them easier to access ..... Yes, normally the adjuster screw has a Phillips head, yours I'm guessing is an aftermarket replacement screw or whole worm assembly...

First of all, it's on backwards, lol. Use a socket to take it off and flip it around, then it will be easier to access. Then, get yourself a 12mm offset box wrench .....

Yes, you'll need to remove the point/advance housing covers to get a straighter shot at it, but it works good after doing that.

..... and for #9 and #10, I use a wobble extension ..... I've also changed my tune a little on the 8 large acorn nuts. I only go 28 to 30 on them now. I tried close to 35 on my '78 when the head gasket started leaking and I swear, I could feel the studs stretching, lol. And after all that, it...

Nor are the '80 and later BS34 carbs.

When you do the clutch adjustment, loosen the adjuster up at the lever all the way and do the adjustment down at the worm first. Take up as much slack as you can with that worm gear adjuster, then finish with the adjuster at the lever to get the last little bit of freeplay out. Also, most of us...

If you look closely, it usually is. That small bead of rubber will run in under the rim where the tire isn't fully seated and popped out all the way. If it's seated correctly, you should have a small, equal space all the way around the rim between it and that small bead of rubber.

Take another close look at the tire where it meets the rim. There is usually a small single or double bead of rubber there and that tells you if the tire is fully seated and "popped out" all the way .....

Raymond, if it were me, one of the first things I'd do is install my favorite handlebars, the Euro bend. That might alleviate your sore shoulders. The way that the Euro bars droop down on the ends turns your wrists to a more natural angle. This makes them very, very comfortable. Your bars stick...

Lou_TX, you don't need a lathe to make up a spacer for the clutch cable, you can make one by cutting the end off an old clutch cable elbow ...... Then simply slip it on the cable above the existing elbow ...... I've been using these for several years now on both my 650s because I run...

Yes, you need a metal cover that hangs on two tabs and has the knob on the bottom that "twist-locks" into the frame. They were used on '78 -'80 models. Maybe they got the year wrong on that eBay listing. A plastic cover would be from an '81 or newer model.

We're trying to verify that the ignition system (spark) is functioning properly before you go into the carbs again. Sounds like your plugs are OK, being almost new, but what about the spark plug caps? Are they the originals? They can go bad, or just come loose on the wire. Either could cause...

If it's a metal cover with the slots on top and the twist knob on the bottom, then yes, a 1980 version will fit. Anything newer won't. They switched to plastic covers with "pegs" and open ended slots on them that snap into grommets on the frame.

Just fill those welds in and take a flap wheel to them, they'll be fine. That's not a high stress area. And while you've got the welder out, brace the tang on the centerstand or it will eventually break off .....

Well, you could go through all that if you like I guess, but I think it's just much easier to look at the locating pin hole in the advance unit end of the cam, lol.

If you're looking at the keyway in the points cam, that's not the one you check. You need to look at the pin hole in the cam on the advance side. It may require you to remove the advance unit, but maybe not if you're lucky. There is a retaining pin pressed into the advance plate just above the...

Yes, with the engine at TDC, the locating pin hole in the cam for the advance unit should face straight up or straight down (depending which cylinder is on it's compression stroke). It's also possible the cam chain is badly stretched and should have been replaced during that rebuild but...

Years ago, we used to clean our gas fouled (wet) two stroke plugs and re-use them all the time. At first we would just scrub them with clean gas and a toothbrush, then let them air dry overnight. Then we discovered electrical contact cleaner spray. With that, you could spray down a wet, gas...

For the charging system, the first thing you'll want to do is perform the simple charging output test. Start the bike and attach a multi-meter to the battery terminals. At idle, you should see about 12 volts, revved up to 3000-3200 RPMs, you should see low to mid 14s. If the output doesn't...