Finished the top end on my ‘78 Special couple weeks ago, ordered some misc parts externally that finally arrived. As I look at starting the bike up after doing top end (chain, chain guides, new rings, gaskets), is there any special does and don’t regarding starting for the first time start? I used assembly lube and the motor has sat buttoned up for couple weeks, want to make sure oil gets flowing everywhere so I don’t cause any wear issues. Good procedure or methods for extra lube on any parts before first couple of kick starts?
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Top end / Initial Startup
- Thread starter Duck749
- Start date
Wondering if you are going for the initial startup with the tank on and bike ready to ride ?
Or perhaps tank off, temporary fuel source, timing light in hand, ready to confirm visually the cam chain tension is set and working?
Ready to react to any seen leaks or noises?
Auxiliary fan on hand to blow cooling air towards the engine if extended stationary running is the idea?
What’s your plan?
Or perhaps tank off, temporary fuel source, timing light in hand, ready to confirm visually the cam chain tension is set and working?
Ready to react to any seen leaks or noises?
Auxiliary fan on hand to blow cooling air towards the engine if extended stationary running is the idea?
What’s your plan?
Here's my procedure for starting a fresh XS motor:
Remove the plugs to allow the engine to spin easier.
Triple check to make sure you're topped off with oil.
Loosen (or remove) one of the banjo bolts that screws into the head for the oil tube (no need to do both as long as you properly cleaned the oil tube).
Spin the motor over for about 10 seconds or so then give the starter a rest for about a minute.
Continue that spin/rest cycle until you get good oil flow out of the oil tube. Reinstall the banjo bolt and continue the spin/rest cycle to get a good supply of oil inside the head.
All this is to pre-oil the head and to ensure your oil pump and associated bits are installed and working properly.
Some folk just look in a valve cover for proper oil flow... and I used to do the same. However, that's not a guarantee the pump's working because the cam chain can pick up oil from the sump and carry it up into the head. So you'll see some oil in the head whether the pump's working or not. Removing the banjo is a more positive check.
After you've "pre-oiled" the head, reinstall the plugs and go for a start. Just be ready on the kill switch in case your carbs cause the engine to rev like a possessed demon. After that, it's just a matter of making sure you don't have any fuel or oil leaks and getting everything (carbs and ignition) sorted.
Remove the plugs to allow the engine to spin easier.
Triple check to make sure you're topped off with oil.
Loosen (or remove) one of the banjo bolts that screws into the head for the oil tube (no need to do both as long as you properly cleaned the oil tube).
Spin the motor over for about 10 seconds or so then give the starter a rest for about a minute.
Continue that spin/rest cycle until you get good oil flow out of the oil tube. Reinstall the banjo bolt and continue the spin/rest cycle to get a good supply of oil inside the head.
All this is to pre-oil the head and to ensure your oil pump and associated bits are installed and working properly.
Some folk just look in a valve cover for proper oil flow... and I used to do the same. However, that's not a guarantee the pump's working because the cam chain can pick up oil from the sump and carry it up into the head. So you'll see some oil in the head whether the pump's working or not. Removing the banjo is a more positive check.
After you've "pre-oiled" the head, reinstall the plugs and go for a start. Just be ready on the kill switch in case your carbs cause the engine to rev like a possessed demon. After that, it's just a matter of making sure you don't have any fuel or oil leaks and getting everything (carbs and ignition) sorted.
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Check your static timing first IMO
I did mine by disconnecting the leads to the condenser and coils while the tank was off so it isolated the points and I could just use the meter on continuity mode and listen for the points to kick in and out. I adjusted it to the right of the 2 marks to cut off and about 180degrees of rotation to come on (180 to come on before turning off)
I did mine by disconnecting the leads to the condenser and coils while the tank was off so it isolated the points and I could just use the meter on continuity mode and listen for the points to kick in and out. I adjusted it to the right of the 2 marks to cut off and about 180degrees of rotation to come on (180 to come on before turning off)
I have timing set and confirmed with ohm meter at tdc/opening of points. Leaving tank off with auxiliary and yes plan to vacuum check and synch carbs. Wasn’t planning to run very long outside of motor running and everything seem operational.
Good tip and will plan on doing! Heard of others running until oil light turns off and then shutoff, repeat few times. This is good guarantee for flow.
These engines don't have an oil low pressure warning light.
