Air compressor. How do you have yours mounted to the floor

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IT'S ALIVE!!

So I finally got this thing pieced together. Every part on it is new except the tank, and electric motor. It's a walker all right. It wants to vibrate across the floor. I'm really shocked at how quit this thing is.

I'm just wondering how you guy's have your compressor's mounted. On my old one, I just left it on the shipping pallet. But I'd have to build one more or less now. I really don't want to drill big ass hole's in my garage floor either,,, unless I have to. Post pic's of your set ups.

Rural King has a rubber mat. I could cut it to what ever size I want. I wonder if that would keep thing's in place. I wonder if these rubber pad's are any good. You guy's ever see these.

http://www.ruralking.com/powermate-vibration-pad-094-0137rp.html



Here's my Frankenpressor. :eek:
 

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You may not want to drill holes in your floor, but that is the correct way to go. If you've never done it before, you need a hammer drill and a masonry bit. You can rent the hammer drill from a Home Depot. Vacuum the holes clean. You need a setting tool and a hammer to set the anchors. Use drop-in anchors, and make the hole deeper than the anchor. This will put the top of the anchor below floor level, so when you move you can fill/repair the hole.
 
My 30 gallon is framed, on wheels and has rubber feet. Sorry I'm not much help. I have seen a couple on a pair of 4X4's rather than a full pallet, with rubber strips on the bottom of the 4X4s.
 
When I was in Florida, I had mine bolted to the floor with anchors. I didn't use a hammer drill, just a good masonry bit and didn't have any problems. Since mine didn't come with rubber pads, I made some by cutting 3 pieces out of an old motorcycle tire, drilling a hole in each for the mounting bolt, and putting 1 between each compressor "foot" and the slab. Cuts down on vibration and noise. Since we moved to New Hampshire, my antique garage has a wood plank floor and I don't even have the compressor screwed down.
 
You could build a small pallet the footprint of the compressor(I would lay a 2x4 on the flat side and shiplap the corners), you can then toe screw the pallet to the bottom plate of your wall with a long screw(3''-4"). I think that would be more than enough to keep it from scaring all the other tools in the garage.
 
You could build a small pallet the footprint of the compressor(I would lay a 2x4 on the flat side and shiplap the corners), you can then toe screw the pallet to the bottom plate of your wall with a long screw(3''-4"). I think that would be more than enough to keep it from scaring all the other tools in the garage.

That would keep it from walking away, but my wife would shit her britches when that thing kicked on and started shaking everything out of the medicine cabinet with it secured to the wall! :laugh:
Mine's loud as shit, and I like it being on wheels, because I can wheel it away to a tire with a full tank, and I can wheel it out the garage door when I'm using a lot of air so the garage is not a constant drone of compressor. Not practical with a larger one, but one of the reasons I got the one I did.
 
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That would keep it from walking away, but my wife would shit her britches when that thing kicked on and started shaking everything out of the medicine cabinet with it secured to the wall! :laugh:
Mine's loud as shit, and I like it being on wheels, because I can wheel it away to a tire with a full tank, and I can wheel it out the garage door when I'm using a lot of air so the garage is not a constant drone of compressor. Not practical with a larger one, but one of the reasons I got the one I did.
With a large stand up unit it needs to be bolted down some how. When I was moving last year mine tipped over(i caught it but it could have been a real bad thing). They are just to top heavy.
 
I agree. My dad has never used the stand-up tank type due to this. He's always used the horizontal tank setup.
stand-ups beyond 30 gallons are dangerous without being tied down, and probably 30's as well if they are not portable types.
 
imo, anything over 30 in a home garage is overkill, unless your painting. my 33(yes, I just contradicted myself) Has wheels, and I like that for when a neighbor needs a tire filled. it isn't bolted to the floor, but I do have a horse stall rubber pad in the corner were it usually lives.
 
imo, anything over 30 in a home garage is overkill, unless your painting. my 33(yes, I just contradicted myself) Has wheels, and I like that for when a neighbor needs a tire filled. it isn't bolted to the floor, but I do have a horse stall rubber pad in the corner were it usually lives.


Well. I'm hoping this thing will run a sand blaster. :shrug:
 
Well, here's what I ended up with. I'm not 100% satisfied. All though putting it on the 2x4's made it a little more stable, I think if a drunk fell into it, it could be knocked over. Not that there's ever any drunk's in my garage. :cheers:

Adding to an all ready top heavy model, the new pump I put on there is a lot bigger than the old one. Don't get me wrong. It's not that unstable. I'd just feel better if it was a little more secure. Ya know what I mean.

I put some witness marks around it and plugged it in. It does not move. I think to ease my mind I'm going to go ahead and put either a rubber pad, or just strip's under the 2x4's, and just use some Tapcon's to hold it in place.
 

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I replaced the relatively junk original Porter Cable which failed in less than a year with a great old Smith 2 cylinder that I had laying around. It was top heavy before and with the Smith up there it is more so. 2x4 base and I tethered it from the compressor to the wall with a chunk of light chain just to cancel the tip over factor.

roy
 

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RoyBoy, did your compressor pump shit, or did the motor capacitors die? Been a notorious problem over the past few years with Chinese capacitors because the materials don't get processed right, and since them bastards are pretty much sole suppliers nowadays, it ain't gonna get better. Damn Chinese!
 
A videographer I'm not. Hell. I can't even spell it. :shrug:

But here's my attempt. Kinda sucks. But at least you can tell what it is. And I didn't trash the camera this time. :eek:


 
The compressor started pumping its crank case oil into the lines. Cylinders were shot. Not worth fixing. Cheap crap.

roy

Mine more or less did the same thing. But for $50, I figured the tank and electric motor was worth that.

The guy swore "It Runs. Just won't build pressure". Ya right.
 

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I have a new concern. The old pump's main tube to fill the tank was a lot smaller than the new pump's. No biggie. I just moved to a different port so I didn't create a restriction going from 3/4" to 1/2".

But in doing so, I now realize I used the port where my regulator was supposed to go. Now instead of my main air supply feeding from a 1/2" port,, it's feeding from a 1/4" port,,, using a 1/4" regulator.

I'm hopefully going to be doing some sand blasting with this set up. Is my 1/4" regulator going to be ok. I do have another big port I could use if need be. But it's about 1-1/2". I'd have to get a bushing to hook it up.

So am I over thinking thing's here. I get told that a lot,,,lol. Will this set up be ok. Thanks.
 
We would often just attach hockey pucks to the feet to keep the tanks from walking on horizontal units, but verticals really should have a wide base, or be bolted down.

Hate to say it, but the sandblasting is going to be slow going, unless it's small parts in a cabinet. Our 10hp Ingersoll Rand was just adequate with a 1/8" nozzle. It will get done, just don't expect to be blasting non-stop. I don't think I'd bother with a regulator, the tank is going to draw down pretty quickly once the blaster gets going, and as I said, you don't want a single stage pump set up for much more than 130psi anyway. 1/4" regulator is way too small for blasting, and probably will restrict the flow too much for a good impact gun as well. If you need lots of flow, use the bigger tank bung and bush it down to 1" or 3/4". Yes, it's going to be a royal PITA to get that original bushing out.

BTW, that original pump was nowhere near a 5hp unit. It is a good 2hp pump at best, and there has been some litigation in the past few years over bogus HP claims on compressors. I'm not surprised the pump failed, it was probably turning a billion rpm and running hotter than a firecracker (you can tell by how discolored the paint is on the cylinders). Normally, they are very sturdy pumps that will easily last 30 years when operating as they were designed to. Heck, I'd probably rebuild it and keep it for another project. Those old SpeedAire/Campbell Hausfeld VT pumps were excellent, simple pumps that were sold under a huge variety of names, including Craftsman, when Craftsman meant something. Have you done an amp draw check at cut-out pressure to see if the pulley sizes are going to work ok? If Hugh has his eye-crometers, my ear-crometers says the RPMS sound like they are around where they should be, but an amp check would be nice. You did a nice job with the setup!
 
Thanks for the reply.

As far as sand blasting goes, I don't plan on doing a lot. Just my own bike resto stuff. Like the frame on my 72 XS2 for starters. And of course all the other parts as well.

I'm going to be using a cheap Harbor Freight blaster. Most of the reviews say it works well @90psi, as long as you have a big enough compressor. Which by the sounds of what these reviewers were saying they had,,, mine should work. Hopefully.

Here's a link to the unit. It has a 1/4" air inlet. Since that's the case,,, should I worry about trying to hook up a larger line since it's just going to the 1/4" air inlet of this sand blaster.

http://www.harborfreight.com/portable-abrasive-blaster-kit-37025.html

I may end up down the line getting a Harbor Freight cabinet,,, or build my own.

http://www.harborfreight.com/40-lb-capacity-floor-blast-cabinet-68893.html

Do you think my compressor will work for these sand blasters.



Oh ya. How would I go about checking the amp draw.
 
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