giddy! 71 within my grasp

Your 'switched on' description sounds right. The harness tag is probably the part number. If not, posting a pic may help future archeologists.

I dug out my old harness, thinkin' that a coupla pics may help diagnose yours, but after uncoiling it, I remembered that I had modified it for the chopper. So, don't want to tarnish this thread with that thing.

However, it brought back some memories. If you look at your harness, at the brown power feed to the coils, you should see that the coils' multi-connector has 2 brown wires. One of them comes from the headlight area, the other runs back to the regulator area. So, that's how the splicing is done there. Maybe a spot to examine?
The coil wires are tucked up out of the way for the power from the pamco, but the double bullet is still there. but no power. I wrapped the end up.
So now I see what happened. I used one of the coil wires, (brown) to power the dual coil, and pamco. cutting that wire off the double plug makes it dead. I was able to track it back to the reg feed. mystery solved. On to the stator......
Thanks guys.:thumbsup:
 
the stator tests good. the rectifier, I have a few questions. this is what I got.....
black probe to black wire,red probe to white wires
1/1
2/1
3/1
red probe to black wire
black probe to white wires
1/649
2/653
3/640
red probe to red wire
black probe to white wires
1/1
1/1
1/1
black probe to red wire
red probe to white wires
1/642
2/657
3/640

Now, its obvious to me that the diodes are working, but do the higher numbers mean anything?
if so, looks like all that was wrong was that "somebody:D" connected the reg to the blinkers. DERRRR.......
So now that its all undone, and needs to be rewrapped, Im going to pull out all the wires from the conectors(one at a time!!) and hit them with 1000grit paper, and rinse with contact cleaner.
Ive got time. Ive got two gallons of evaporust in my tank, and should clean out my carbs.
let me know what you think of those values.:shrug:
 
Yeah, that unpowered reg was probably it.

Testing diodes can give different readings on various multimeters, since the diodes don't act like resistors. They actually have reverse-blocking and forward-bias voltage drop. So, the meter is actually reading its own internal probe resistances in the forward-bias direction, whatever they are.

If that "1" that you're reporting is actually an "open", then you've confirmed "blocking" in one direction and continuity in the other. So, the rectifier unit is OK...
 
thanks. In the Haynes, it says to test this way, and one way should read very high(closed circuit), and other way should read low(open circuit). page 119.
I cleaned all the male sides of the connectors, but how do you clean the female side? is a points gap file thin enuf? I don't have one, but if I have to I will.
I got it all taped back up, retested reg/rec, stator, all good. shoot some gas into the bowls and fired it up it only ran on one side then died. battery is good and full.
I was hoping it would run long enuf to test for charging. it passed the slap test. I'll pick up carb cleaner tomorrow. When I do carbs, I buy a whole case. Its also a good cleaner.
 
Haha, that's always been a mystery to me too.



With the connectors out of their housing, you can test the male connector insertion force, and gently squeeze them down a little if they're a little loose. That's about all I got...
....a love knot, if you will.:laugh:
 
So since I have tested every component of the charging syste, reg, rec, rotor, stator, full agm battery(not a cheap one), tests good, And it started sputtering at the end of my last test ride, I figured the carbs sucked in some crap from the tank.
Pulled the carbs, opened them up. spotless, but as many of you know, that's not good enuf. Tear it all down, clean all passageways, put carbs back on, new air filters in.
For fun I checked compression, right 130, left 125. Its fine. Im betting those rings weren't ridden long enuf after the rebuild 20 years ago to seat in. Satisfied with that, checked plug gap, .030, Put 'em back in. Start kicking. after the 3rd kick, I know something is wrong. not even a popcorn fart.
Pull the plugs ground to head, kick. No spark on right, weak yellow on the right.
Coil? Ive found some info how to test coils, I have this one from mikexs with a basic pamco. http://www.mikesxs.net/product/17-6903.html
Its possible the plugs are fouled, so I have them soaking in carb cleaner.
But if I need a new coil, what others can I use with a pamco? Someone used a Harley dyna dual tower, and I looked at them on ebay, and they are half the price, but they have over 3ohms primary. The one I have is 2.4, and I think that is what I need.
Thanks for any info.
 
So since I have tested every component of the charging syste, reg, rec, rotor, stator, full agm battery(not a cheap one), tests good, And it started sputtering at the end of my last test ride, I figured the carbs sucked in some crap from the tank.
Pulled the carbs, opened them up. spotless, but as many of you know, that's not good enuf. Tear it all down, clean all passageways, put carbs back on, new air filters in.
For fun I checked compression, right 130, left 125. Its fine. Im betting those rings weren't ridden long enuf after the rebuild 20 years ago to seat in. Satisfied with that, checked plug gap, .030, Put 'em back in. Start kicking. after the 3rd kick, I know something is wrong. not even a popcorn fart.
Pull the plugs ground to head, kick. No spark on right, weak yellow on the right.
Coil? Ive found some info how to test coils, I have this one from mikexs with a basic pamco. http://www.mikesxs.net/product/17-6903.html
Its possible the plugs are fouled, so I have them soaking in carb cleaner.
But if I need a new coil, what others can I use with a pamco? Someone used a Harley dyna dual tower, and I looked at them on ebay, and they are half the price, but they have over 3ohms primary. The one I have is 2.4, and I think that is what I need.
Thanks for any info.

On Pamcopete's web site it says any coil from 2.5 ohms to 4.5 ohms primary.
 
Yep those work well with the Pamco ignition. I am using one very similar if not the exact same one at the moment and it has served me well.
 
thanks, ippy. what gap do you have your plugs? ive got mine at .030. Im pretty sure that's going to be too small. can I go to .040?
 
I, like pete had posted way back when, am using the autolite #63 at .035 right out of the box. I get good easy starts (1st or 2nd kick) and decent MPG so I haven't messed it much. I don't get near the MPG other riders do but I tend to hot rod around quite a bit.
 
im using auto lite ap 63's in my stock ignition 1980 chop. I will get a nother pair for my 71. it just has the stock ones. new, though.
 
Well, crap. At least its charging now, but the emulsion tube orings in the carbs are letting fuel pass thru unmetered and fouls my plugs. At least it ran long enuf to get a read on the battery. 14.5v at 1300rpm, 14.9 at 1500 rpm . overcharging? I see in the Haynes manuel the reg is adjustable, but is vague . But, at least its charging, for now.
 
That last pic in post #53 shows the regulator guts. Adjust screw #10 to get what you want, will probably take a couple tries. I have mine set for 14.2v. All those boilover batteries I serviced in the '70s had charging systems that were in the aggressive 14.5-15v area, and non-adjustable. Ever since then, I've checked charging systems for overvoltage...
 
... the emulsion tube orings in the carbs are letting fuel pass thru unmetered and fouls my plugs...

My carbs went thru some war and back. Same issue, or I thought. Found that previous owners had warped the carb bodies from overtightening the bowl screws. All four corners (the bowlscrew ears) were pulled slightly up from level. So, when the bowls are fitted, there's no sealing in the crucial middle area of the bowl/body, where the airbleeds feed to the jets. They would pull fuel thru the thin gap, or air, depending on phase of the moon.

An easy test for this, outside of visual check, is to put a tiny dollip of grease on the flat part at the middle of the bowl, fit it to the carb body (minus gasket and screws), withdraw and see if the little grease dollip is squashed.

I had to take both carb bodies, fit them lightly in a padded vice, and flat-punch tap the corners back flat...
 
Been away for a bit, but following this thread and remember the saga from the first time you were messing with this bike, Angus. Great job on all your pics! they are going to help me a lot.
My contribution to this is that I have a fairly original XS1-B, SN S650 020533. Got it from the brother of the deceased original owner, it was mildly chooperized back in the day, extended forks, some chroming, king queen seat. showing 12k miles and decent condition yet. Chooperizing was so popular AFAIK Yamaha sold extended cables to make it easy to add "rototiller" handlebars and extend the fork tubes. Still working on getting the title for this one. Pic is from when I picked it up.

XS1B Deforest 006.jpg

I did a fairly complete set of photos before starting in on it.

I have a faded original paint gas tank for it also. I have a set of tins at the painter getting butterscotch paint, I am sure he will get them done "sometime soon", then again I'll have it ready to ride "sometime soon" also!

Keep the info flowing on the early bike FAQs!

IMHO one of the big early bike issues is the short throttle shaft bushings on the cable end of the shaft those short bushings are about guaranteed to be worn oval and causing leaks... I have some bushing material and need to talk to a local guy who says he has done stromberg bushing installs. Would be nice to have a jig built for accurate repeatable bushing service.
 
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