Jockey shifts

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I make a jockey shift setup but i want to see what everyone else did. I would like to do one that is just in the cover and i think i have enough room to do everything. Fong Bros made a cool one and i seen some off the adjuster but look like they would break after a while. GOT ANY IDEAS????????
 

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O HELL YEA the wrench one looks great. i was going to put one on mine .have forwards but cant figuer out the clutch cable hook up, with out looking at a set up. wonder why theres not a kit out to buy
 
I do sell a kit but i want to make it all in the cover then just sell the cover. The ones in picture work good and you still keep the adjuster and it is not hard to do. You use the stock cover turn the adjuster around so it is pointed down instead of up take off the spring. Make a frame mount just like brake and put spring on for return and use controls . Ones in picture are TCBROTHERS foward controls with my mid control mounts . Adjust play and make stop on bracket so you don't push too far and you have jockey shift.
 
The problem with that type of shifter are the xs vibrations. After a while you will have a broken shift shaft, due to all of that mass vibrating on the end of that poor little shaft. The ones you pictured are more of a side shifter than a jockey. The jockey name comes from how jockeys whip the horse on the ass while riding, so a shifter down low and behind is a jockey.
Here is a pic of my jockey shift and foot clutch setup.
1284588036.jpg

here is a pic of when it was a tank shift with a cable actuated foot clutch
1248739353.jpg
 
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Thats cool looking just like the FONG BROTHERS SETUP but its on a BRAT bike on a hard tail you really don't have anything to go back to and i rode one off the shifter shaft for three year and never had a problem . It all has to do with weight on the shaft. The ones i have on there are hollow tube very light. But i sure do like your idea. I also raced DRAG BIKES and used air shifters and never had a shaft break or loosen and thats alot of force on that little shaft.Keep them coming i like the ideas!!!
 
yeah a hollow tube is a good idea, it isnt really the force on the shaft that breaks them, but the constant vibration that fatigues the metal. There was one locally who had a heavy beer tap handle and his broke clean off one day.
My jockey shifter isn't cable operated anymore. I changed it to a rod system after the first cable broke, it is much more reliable.
 
That had to be heavy on that for that to break. I never broke one over 25 years racing and like i said three years on road. I tried cable but they kept binding up and getting hard. I have been looking into newer fluid pushers that some guys are useing with master cylinder and that may be a good way to go. Just use HARLEY rear brake master cylinder on it just like you would do break but it would be clutch.
 
I didn't see that link only pictures of bike from another tread???
I have made up a couple and just did one that i am installing this week were i have no frame attachment . All the parts are in the cover. So if you want to take it off you simply change covers and hook up linkage to foot or handlebar. Will post pictures this week. Tested it and it works great with foward controls
 
And another:

noid-picture_137-1024x768.jpg

noid-picture_134-1024x768.jpg


I like how he has the foot peg coming off of the shifter shaft, but that might not be good for the bearings!!!!

Here's the other side:
noid-picture_135-1024x768.jpg
 
Sooooo from what I have read the ones that I have posted above are neither a jockey shift or suicide clutch.

Does that mean I can rename this "new" style of shifter? :lol: I will call it MINI ME!

Who knows, reminds me of the long Rat Rod type shifters.
 
Has anyone done one that shifts on the right side (yes I know you will have to take your hand of the throttle to shift it) I have been trying to work one out for a while but the linkage from the left to the right side is the problem. I can't seem to find a way to run the linkage under the seat and keep the slop out of it' I need something that the shaft can run through, be free enough not to bind when it rotates, and not have a lot of slop. A tube of some sort with bearings on each end to support the linkage shaft I guess. Has any one done this? I saw a pict of one awhile back but I can't remember where.
 
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