Brass bushings before or after powder coating

Muneio

XS650 Argonaut
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What's the consensus should you put the brass bushings in before or after having the swing arm powder coated. Is the heat an issue for the bushings?
 
What's the consensus should you put the brass bushings in before or after having the swing arm powder coated. Is the heat an issue for the bushings?

I would do it before so you dont bugger it up pressing them in after.
A good powder dude could isolate them during media blasting and then plug em w/ silicone plugs during powder and baking.
and nope on the heat being an issue.
 
Thanks for the info Timothy, That will certainly make it easier, hopefully they go in easier then they come out. Just took them out what a PITA! :banghead:
 
I would say do it after.. I got my swingarm coated then put the brass spacers in... you don't want anything in those grooved chanels. it's next to impossible to cause any damage to the swingarm installed the bushings... all you need is a piece of all rod, 2 washers and nuts to press the bushings in.. don't leave it in the hands of another person.

down here in florida my coated could barely speak english... Id rather handle things myself.
 
I powder coated but did the needle bearing conversion after. A buddy pressed them in with a bearing press. No issues though.
 
One issue I did have was I had to remove the powdercoat from around the lip of the pivot hole with my dremel as it added just enough width that I could not get it to fit in between the frame. Too damn tight. :banghead:
 
And the only one before is actually a powdercoater.....

yup, I know what a bitch it is to install and try and not damage PC work and stuff, I build stuff too. It is a pain for me as a powder coater to do the work after bearing install, I have to protect them during media blasting and then protect them during the cleaning and coating etc etc, its definately more work on my end, but easier on you during the build, so I opt for the easier part for you and know that you will have a nice clean, hassle free assembly, when done.
 
Thanks for the info Timothy, That will certainly make it easier, hopefully they go in easier then they come out. Just took them out what a PITA! :banghead:

Did you take plastic out or bronze? If bronze, I'd like to know how you did it. I took my plastic ones out pretty easily by hammering a nail between the bushing and the swing arm, splitting the bushing. It then taps out easy from the opposite side.

I had difficulty getting the bronze in. I should have taken them to a machine shop and had them pressed in. Don't worry about leaving them at a legitimate machine shop. Once they're in, you might have to use a brake cylinder hone in them to allow the bolt to go through. You might have to file the flanges so that they fit inside the grease seals.

One suggestion I would make is after they're in, if you're going to use a new bolt, is put the arm in first using the old bolt, and then torque it down to the right spec, then remove, grease it all up, and reinstall with the new bolt. The reason for that is to make sure they're seated all the way, so that when you torque it down with the new bolt, you know whether the bushings are being seated or the bolt is twisting - it feels the same :eek:



...a piece of all rod...

Sounds like what one might be limited to at Home Depot :)
 
It's not often necessary to press or drive the bushings in. If you freeze them first and take the time to clean and lightly polish the seats in the swingarm, the bushings will usually push in with thumb pressure.
 
And if you polish them real good, they don't even need a thumb. Just a light puff of air from your rosy cheeks will do...
 
I've done that job many times and have never found it necessary to force the bushings hard enough to deform them. The most I've ever had to do after freezing the bushings is to warm the swingarm a bit and tap lightly with a wood block; but that's been rare. It's also unnecessary to cut, pound, etc. to remove the plastic bushings. Put a propane torch on the center sleeve until the plastic starts to burn, driving off the volatiles and shrinking the plastic. Done right, you won't heat the surface of the swingarm enough to harm the paint. A couple of very light taps will then pop the bushing right out. Re. bronze bushing removal, a slide hammer type expanding inside puller will do it.

Things like the "rosy cheeks" crack from a twit who's done the job once and become an instant expert is the kind of thing that led me to drop 650 Rider. So long, people. I'm out of here.
 
Things like the "rosy cheeks" crack from a twit who's done the job once and become an instant expert is the kind of thing that led me to drop 650 Rider. So long, people. I'm out of here.

Hope you change your mind & stay grizld1, sometimes you have to just laugh to yourself when these comments are made, especially when you are only trying to help.
I and Im sure many others appreciate your knowledge of the XS.
Hope you stick around mate
Kev
 
Hope you change your mind & stay grizld1, sometimes you have to just laugh to yourself when these comments are made, especially when you are only trying to help.
I and Im sure many others appreciate your knowledge of the XS.
Hope you stick around mate
Kev

+1 :thumbsup:
 
Chat forum suicides make me so sad. I always cry.

Sometimes a one-time experience of somebody smart is more than worth the lifelong experience of a dummy.
 
You know, all the bushings and tubes appeared at the instant of God's creation. That's why they're all the same size! Well, within a polishing's worth at least. Nobody's perfect.
 
I've done that job many times and have never found it necessary to force the bushings hard enough to deform them. The most I've ever had to do after freezing the bushings is to warm the swingarm a bit and tap lightly with a wood block; but that's been rare. It's also unnecessary to cut, pound, etc. to remove the plastic bushings. Put a propane torch on the center sleeve until the plastic starts to burn, driving off the volatiles and shrinking the plastic. Done right, you won't heat the surface of the swingarm enough to harm the paint. A couple of very light taps will then pop the bushing right out. Re. bronze bushing removal, a slide hammer type expanding inside puller will do it.

Things like the "rosy cheeks" crack from a twit who's done the job once and become an instant expert is the kind of thing that led me to drop 650 Rider. So long, people. I'm out of here.

damn, grow a thicker skin then come back and say hello.
 
Seriously??? You're going to run off over xjwmx's bullshit? Wow. The dude thinks a Special looks better than a Standard. How seriously can he be taken? So, he doesn't know how to communicate like a rational, decent human being... his dicketry aside, you really need to learn not to take bs on the internet so personally. I really appreciate the information you've given out here. Take care.
 
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