oil filter

Hi guys,

I have a few questions about installing a lower sump shield as I am in the process of changing my oil and my filter/screen was ripped. If I'm understanding properly, this filter is on the suction side of the oiling system, correct? Someone in the thread related this to the oil pickup in a small block Chevy. If that is the case, is it possible the filter is being damaged from suction on the internal side, ie, pulling thick oil through the filter made it rip? And if that is the case, how does installing a shield help, by restricting the suction at that corner of the filter? Or do I have this all wrong? Hope that isn't as confusing as I think it is:)
 
Hi guys,

I have a few questions about installing a lower sump shield as I am in the process of changing my oil and my filter/screen was ripped. If I'm understanding properly, this filter is on the suction side of the oiling system, correct? Someone in the thread related this to the oil pickup in a small block Chevy. If that is the case, is it possible the filter is being damaged from suction on the internal side, ie, pulling thick oil through the filter made it rip? And if that is the case, how does installing a shield help, by restricting the suction at that corner of the filter? Or do I have this all wrong? Hope that isn't as confusing as I think it is:)

I would have thought this is answered quite simply by reading through this whole thread.
 
Yes, It is on the suction side of the pump. Just like most car engines not just small block Chevies.
Several of us think the filter tears where it does because of the oil being cold and thick at start up.
The filter element is at it's weakest on the corner by where the oil pump draws the oil.
On start up the oil is thick and doesn't flow well. This creates a lot of suction in the oil port going to the oil pump. This high suction is next too the weakest area of the filter. The shield prevents oil from flowing through the weak spot. It diverts it to stronger areas.
I just patch the tear in the filter. Clean it well and a coat of JB Weld seals the tear. If the tear is too big for patching like this cut a patch out of a can, beer, tuna fish, what ever. Cut it to fit. A thin coat of JB Weld to "glue" it in place, a coat of JB Weld along the edges to ensure it's sealed.
I have several filters all patched up, and have them mounted on sump plates. This way at oil changes I just pull the sump plate and swap it for a clean one. I also have spare side cover filters to swap too. This makes oil changes quick and easy.
I clean the dirty filters at night or on rainy days. Times when I'm not riding.
Leo
 
Another dirty old bike, time to service the sidecover oil filter. Pull the cover, usual dribble of oil there.
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Remove the filter unit, what's different here?
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There's a paper filter fitted over the screen filter.
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The paper filter easily slides off. It has some metal microflecks, the screen filter seems clean.
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Several years ago, the typical engine clatter changed its tune, and aluminum particles appeared in the oil. Worn front chainguide symptoms. Changed the oil, cleaned the filters, backed-off the camchain adjuster a little. Not ready for teardown yet, and don't want these particles flowing around in there. Also don't want non-factory protrusions and plumbing on this bike. Well, actually just being a cheap bastard.

Had several new oil filters I no longer need, for a truck I no longer own. So, cut them open and salvaged the paper filter material.

Cut the paper filter material into 1 1/2" by 5 1/2" strips. Wrap a strip around a short piece of 1 3/4" OD pipe, and hot-glue the ends with the hi-temp/hi-strength glue.
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Slide/fit the paper filter over the screen filter, keep the glue joint on the concave crescent side, away from the oil flow port. Ready to go.
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In use, the paper filter material will conform to the screen filter shape.

The old paper filter can be opened up and examined. Yes, there's some aluminum specks and fines in there that would have normally passed through the filter screen.
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No, this is not the best way to filter the oil. It doesn't have anywhere near the surface area of a pleated filter. It allows some of the oil to bypass the paper filter since the ends are not sealed. And it must be changed-out more often to prevent clogged-filter oil starvation.

But it's cheap and non-obtrusive. It does trap the smaller fines. I see no metal specs in the oil during oil changes.

Just another option...
 
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Another dirty old bike, time to service the sidecover oil filter. Pull the cover, usual dribble of oil there.
full


Remove the filter unit, what's different here?
full


There's a paper filter fitted over the screen filter.
full


The paper filter easily slides off. It has some metal microflecks, the screen filter seems clean.
full


Several years ago, the typical engine clatter changed its tune, and aluminum particles appeared in the oil. Worn front chainguide symptoms. Changed the oil, cleaned the filters, backed-off the camchain adjuster a little. Not ready for teardown yet, and don't want these particles flowing around in there. Also don't want non-factory protrusions and plumbing on this bike. Well, actually just being a cheap bastard.

Had several new oil filters I no longer need, for a truck I no longer own. So, cut them open and salvaged the paper filter material.

Cut the paper filter material into 1 1/2" by 5 1/5" strips. Wrap a strip around a short piece of 1 3/4" OD pipe, and hot-glue the ends with the hi-temp/hi-strength glue.
full


Slide/fit the paper filter over the screen filter, keep the glue joint on the concave crescent side, away from the oil flow port. Ready to go.
full


In use, the paper filter material will conform to the screen filter shape.

The old paper filter can be opened up and examined. Yes, there's some aluminum specks and fines in there that would have normally passed through the filter screen.
full


No, this is not the best way to filter the oil. It doesn't have anywhere near the surface area of a pleated filter. It allows some of the oil to bypass the paper filter since the ends are not sealed. And it must be changed-out more often to prevent clogged-filter oil starvation.

But it's cheap and non-obtrusive. It does trap the smaller fines. I see no metal specs in the oil during oil changes.

Just another option...

A job well done!
 
The filter on the underside of the sump, is a HiFlo HF147 and the filter on the side of the engine inside the Heiden oil cooler is a HiFlo HF112 that is 2 filters in total.

Hopes this helps

leslie
 
Thanx, ReycleBill! I made 20 of those things back then, now down to 3.

Wondering if filter paper material can be purchased without having to gut car filters...


To answer your question: I'm sure filter paper can be purchased, the question is can you buy it in quantities smaller than tractor-trailer loads.

My brother sometimes makes filters for the military but even the scrap they throw away must be accounted for. His supervisor once allowed him to take home some scrap epoxy coated stainless screen that my brother and I used to make a screen filter for a homemade parts washer. When the higher ups found out his supervisor was reprimanded and my brother narrowly escaped a figurative firing squad.

And the odd thing was, it wasn't even being sold for scrap metal, it was being sent to a landfill so in reality he was saving the company tiny amounts of money.
 
Anyone have a picture of the lower engine case crankshaft area like this one that is a non-electric start version like an early 1970/71 version.

Like to see what is changed in the area circled if anything.

Thanks
 

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  • XS650 Engine Case Bottom.jpg
    XS650 Engine Case Bottom.jpg
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you can get the sump filter conversion from Howard in the UK, his work is of a high engineering standard.





http://www.smedspeed.co.uk



Leslie



Did Howard allso tell you that the sidecover oil filter isnt needed when he supplied you with the Hiflo HF147 solution?



I went changing oil 500km oil after the rebuild and wanted to inspect and change the sidecover oil filter and noticed there were none.. only the plate and nothing behind it.



I asked Howard if it were by intention and he responded saying its a completely useless oil filter:wtf:.



Is that a general observation, I kind of had the impression, even with the HF147 screw on oilfilter, that the sidecover filter were allso a good approach to maintaining a healthy engine??:confused:



Would like some other opinions on this matter.. and im on a lookout for the parts missing mounting the filter I have laying ;):bike:
 
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Just a little thread refresh.
Decided to do a comparison of the screen mesh used on the older stock XS sump filters versus the aftermarket offerings.

Stock sump filter screen:
Screen wire size = 0.004", on a 0.010" grid matrix
This gives a passthru mesh size of 0.006" (150 Microns)

Aftermarket sump filter screen:
Screen wire size = 0.006", on a 0.020" grid matrix (much coarser)
This gives a passthru mesh size of 0.014" (350 Microns)
XS650-NewOldSumpFilters2.jpg


As a point of reference, standard automotive pleated paper oilfilters will filter down to 25 microns.
Top-value filtration systems can filter down to 5 microns.
Filtering at 5 microns or less usually results in oil that never gets black, stays clear.

Update: What does mesh size mean?
Mesh size is referring to the mesh number (a US measurement standard) and its relationship to the size of the openings in the mesh and thus the size of particles that can pass through these openings. Figuring out the mesh number is simple. All you do is count the number of openings in one linear inch of screen. This count is the mesh number.

From here: https://www.industrialspec.com/resources/mesh-and-micron-sizes

The stock 150 micron screen would be about a 100 mesh.
The coarser 350 micron aftermarket screen would be about a 50 mesh...
 
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Interesting that you've resurrected this thread, I've just read through it again after reading some others. It's lead me to contemplate the possibility of using the starter motor hole and mounting recess in the lower case to house a spin-on filter... but what about the plumbing? hmm....
 
Just a little thread refresh.
Decided to do a comparison of the screen mesh used on the older stock XS sump filters versus the aftermarket offerings.

Stock sump filter screen:
Screen wire size = 0.004", on a 0.010" grid matrix
This gives a passthru mesh size of 0.006" (150 Microns)

Aftermarket sump filter screen:
Screen wire size = 0.006", on a 0.020" grid matrix (much coarser)
This gives a passthru mesh size of 0.014" (350 Microns)
View attachment 55680

As a point of reference, standard automotive pleated paper oilfilters will filter down to 25 microns.
Top-value filtration systems can filter down to 5 microns.
Filtering at 5 microns or less usually results in oil that never gets black, stays clear.
The question then becomes: could the low volume and pressure of an XS oiling system actually keep up the necessary pressure and volume at 5 microns? Or would the result be oil starvation and engine loss?
 
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