some wiring diagrams

Question: is the "pick up coil" that is referred to in some of these diagrams, on a stock 80, the elongated black plastic thing that mounts on front of the AC Generator? part 16 in this diagram?
http://parts.yamaha-motor.com/partimage.gifx?d=133692,6,0,sport

thanks! am starting to wrap my brain around some of these wiring scenarios and couldn't figure out what the pickup coil was, because I thought it was a module near the ignitor box. (diagrams kind of show it that way)
 
Holly guacamole...great great stuff!! exactly what I was looking for all in one place. Thanks to all for this!
 
- here are wiring diagrams for canadian and us XS650SF-2F showing the differences
 

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  • XS650SF-2F Canada wiring 1.pdf
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  • XS650SF-2F Canada wiring 2.pdf
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  • XS650SF-2F wiring 1.pdf
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  • XS650SF-2F wiring 2.pdf
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- here are different wiring diagrams for the XSD...europe...canada...other markets
- click on image twice for larger image

- europe
XSDEU.jpg


XSDEUkey.jpg


- canada
XSDCanada.jpg


XSDCanadakey.jpg


- other
XSDother.jpg


XSDotherkey.jpg


- something wierd happened when i was creating pdfs from these and they increased in size :umm: will do them again at the office tomorrow

- well that wasnt very successful was it
 
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- here are the various regional wiring diagrams for the XS650D...Canada...Europe...USA and Other regions
 

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  • XS650D wiring Other.pdf
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  • XS650D wiring Other key.pdf
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  • XS650D wiring eur.pdf
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  • XS650D wiring eur key.pdf
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  • XS650D wiring Ca.pdf
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  • XS650D wiring Ca key.pdf
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i am new to this and i have to replace my wiring harness. i will be ordering a new one from mikes. i plan on my bike being kickstart only, ill also run head/tail light, blinkers front and back. i want to run a small bat as well. the diagrams i am seeing include the electric start. how do i cut that out? what is the best diagram for me to use?
 
B, you would probably be better off building your own harness, as your doing just a very basic electrical system. Otherwise you will end up having to cut up your new one anyway, to make it work right. INXS has posted up quite a few here, and it's not really all that hard.Why spend all that money on a harness when you can fab one up for alot less. Plus, IF you do get a problem later on, you will know where to look because you made the harness yourself.
 
You can get the different color wire at a local electrical wholesaler, the type who sell to electricians. A 14 ga. wire for most of your wiring will be more than enough. On the heavy load stuff, 10 or12 ga. should be sufficient, but your not going to use anything that will require the heavy stuff. The wire is alot cheaper there than at Auto Zone or the like's, and alot more color's. Also, they have connector's like the stock one's, Or different styles, dependin g on what you want to use.
 
Inxs, Just on with wiring as well and was thinking of rewiring it myself. These diagrams are really helpful. Just a couple of things. The black wires are earth and they have the earth sign on them, but the power outlet also has an earth symbol as does the blue and white wire from the starter solenoid. Do the symbols at these two points mean something else. Cheers Ben
 
- you will see that there is always a functional unit like a lightbulb between the feed and the earth...without the contact to earth the bulb isnt going to burn...take this for instance

wiring.jpg


- the headlight has a thin blue wire going to a circle followed by an earth connection, the circle is the light to show you the highbeam is on, the electrons that feed the light wouldnt flow if there was no earth connection on the other side
- the blue and white cable for the start button is the earth cable for the low amp switching side of the start relay, when the button is pressed the switch is earthed, this allows current to pass through the switch creating an electromagnetic contact allowing current to pass to the starter, release the button and the switch turns off killing the e-magnetic contact stopping power feed to the starter
- the power outlet has an earth so that when you plug something in, say a GPS, it bridges the 2 sides and electrons flow from the power through the GPS and out the earth

- its all no different to the water system in your house...the +ve power side is the environmental hdydrologic feeder-lake, river, acquifer-the pipes are the cables, water is the electons, the taps are the switches, the bath, toilet, kitchen sink, laundry etc are the functional units such as lights, starter, horn etc, and the earth is the wastewater outlet back to the environment...if you dont have the wastewater on the outlet side the system isnt going to work

- its all one big loop
 
Thanks for that. Received and understood. It's similar to the horn button then, the power is there, but won't go anywhere until you press the button and let it through. Ben:)
 
In the second diagram down, how do you tie wires into each other? for example, the rw wire from the coil ties into the rw wire from the electronic ignition. how does this occur?
 
You make a splice. There are connectors for that also, but splice making is easy enough.If I really knew how to use a computer, I could show you how to make, what I learned at E.C.A.T., are acceptable method's for splicing wires for aircraft. The trick is to learn how to solder a good joint. A good joint is clean & shiny, while a cold joint is dull. Cold joint's, caused by movement of the wire, or lack of enough heat, are very prone to failure,cause resistance in the circut, and will eventually come apart. It's not real hard to do, & once you've gotten the hang of it, it get's easier. Most splices made at the manufacturer today are done by sound waves. Thats a whole other dimension.

I had posted earlier on where to purchase different color wiring. Have another source, Rock auto parts, just click on the 'extras' column & then electrical. There is quite a large selection of wire, connectors, 2 size butt splice's, you name it. Cheap enough, too.
 
so if you spliced the wires into each other. you would just cut the casing back and solder the wire in? then how do you cover up the solder? like i wouldnt want that exposed joint touching metal and blowing a fuse right? also the butt joints, i feel like when im looking at the diagram you almost want a t-shape butt connector cause the rw wire runs through the other rw wire. i am very new to this but this is what i am noticing by looking at the diagram
 
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