hard_y_rd
XS650 Guru
I disagree. The tire/tube has to be manhandled. Bounced up and down on a solid surface. Re inflating on the bike is not going to do anything. But you can try it.
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When a shop screws up
- Thread starter RPC3
- Start date
READ the WHOLE post.
hard_y_rd
XS650 Guru
So you don't want to fix the bead but the tube position. That'll fix the problem.
Only one making sense is ggggary. see that black ridge about 1/8 in from the rim if that is showing all the way around the tire is seated. the little I can see it is about the same distance from the rim..can see what you are trying to show with your white marks...Have you tried checking the true of the rim.. put on center stand make stiff wire and mount so you can see the run out and the up and down movement of the rim and tire..
RPC3
XS650 Addict
Thanks for the various replies. I'm going to take the wheel off the bike again and bring it into the shop, mostly so it can be rebalanced once it is deflated, reset, and inflated.
There is always going to be some info lost in translation on the Internet. The bounce in the ride isn't terrible, but just enough to notice. The photo from the first thread isn't as telling as seeing the wheel spinning in person. As I mentioned before, I used digital calipers to measure the distance from rim lip to the seat line and its just under 6mm most of the way around, takes a gradual drip (which is why it doesn't look drastic in the photo) for about 10 inches that puts it about 3mm from the rim lip, and then goes back to roughly 6mm.
I don't doubt that with the advice given I could be able to do this myself, but I'd need to build a stand, or buy one, to balance the wheel on, and I feel like the shop deserves a chance to fix the issue.
It is a bit ironic, I got into bike work due to a bad shop experience and really look forward to bike work, but this was the one time I thought I'd take a seat and just pay to have it taken care of.
If the shop doesn't or won't fix it, I'll have the wheel off the bike and will work with the methods suggested above. Thanks again everyone.
There is always going to be some info lost in translation on the Internet. The bounce in the ride isn't terrible, but just enough to notice. The photo from the first thread isn't as telling as seeing the wheel spinning in person. As I mentioned before, I used digital calipers to measure the distance from rim lip to the seat line and its just under 6mm most of the way around, takes a gradual drip (which is why it doesn't look drastic in the photo) for about 10 inches that puts it about 3mm from the rim lip, and then goes back to roughly 6mm.
I don't doubt that with the advice given I could be able to do this myself, but I'd need to build a stand, or buy one, to balance the wheel on, and I feel like the shop deserves a chance to fix the issue.
It is a bit ironic, I got into bike work due to a bad shop experience and really look forward to bike work, but this was the one time I thought I'd take a seat and just pay to have it taken care of.
If the shop doesn't or won't fix it, I'll have the wheel off the bike and will work with the methods suggested above. Thanks again everyone.
angus67
Welder's penetrate deeper!!
if you do end up doing it yourself, take the core out of the stem, and have something between you and the wheel when it "pops". as soon as it pops, let the air out immediately down to a safer pressure. it shouldn't unseat when u let the air out.
Also, as a disclaimer, if you get hurt, I don't know you. lol
Also, as a disclaimer, if you get hurt, I don't know you. lol
scabber
XS650 Guru
Some tire manufactures will dot the tire for location at the stem. The last tire I had mounted required no weights.
I had a rep brand tire on a bike I bought, the bike had an independent of engine, vibration. Wheel had a lot of weights. I pulled all the weights, rebalanced it. Bike still shook, mounted new tire, problem gone. Some tires are born defective. But yes check the rim run out See how the bearings feel check swing arm freeplay. Even when the vibration was gone I could induce a wobble with the bars; new swingarm bushings, Rock solid.
RPC3
XS650 Addict
update for everyone. I brought the wheel/tire back into the shop and they agreed to take it back and re-set the bead for me. Upon picking it up the counter person said the mechanic had to completely remove the tire again and clean away some corrosion on the inside of the wheel that was keeping the bead from setting better. They said the high number of weights used to balance were due to having to use aluminum weights opposed to the old lead weights.
I'll give them credit in that they stood behind their work and fixed the job at no charge. When I got home I inspected the seat and it did look much better; very even all the way around. I put the bike back together and the rear wheel seemed fine, so I think I'm good there.
I will say, I've got some front end bounce as well that I was able to focus on (minor jackhammer arms going on) and on this I'm not sure if its the shop or my bike. The front tire did have a little variance in the bead (roughly 1-2mm of variance, but nothing as extreme as on the rear tire), so it could be the tire isn't set exactly right, or it could be something else. I've never changed the fork oil on the bike, so I think I'll try that next to see if it helps (looking like the drain screws want to strip - so I'll have to get my hand impact driver out to see if that either loosens them - or strips them). I've got a '78 standard so I do have the pre-load adjustments I can play with as well.
Its a bit tough in that this is only my second bike, so while there's some front end bounce, I'm not sure if its an acceptable level or not. I don't really have any friends of mine who I can have test it out for me, so its basically going off assumed "this is normal/this is how it should feel".
I'll give them credit in that they stood behind their work and fixed the job at no charge. When I got home I inspected the seat and it did look much better; very even all the way around. I put the bike back together and the rear wheel seemed fine, so I think I'm good there.
I will say, I've got some front end bounce as well that I was able to focus on (minor jackhammer arms going on) and on this I'm not sure if its the shop or my bike. The front tire did have a little variance in the bead (roughly 1-2mm of variance, but nothing as extreme as on the rear tire), so it could be the tire isn't set exactly right, or it could be something else. I've never changed the fork oil on the bike, so I think I'll try that next to see if it helps (looking like the drain screws want to strip - so I'll have to get my hand impact driver out to see if that either loosens them - or strips them). I've got a '78 standard so I do have the pre-load adjustments I can play with as well.
Its a bit tough in that this is only my second bike, so while there's some front end bounce, I'm not sure if its an acceptable level or not. I don't really have any friends of mine who I can have test it out for me, so its basically going off assumed "this is normal/this is how it should feel".
cycleranger
Generally Ok.
Yay, glad the shop did their job.
If the tech had been paying attention the first time he wouldn't have had to do the job twice.
I just put tires on my rims. I took a wire wheel to the inside to make sure they were clean and free of any corrosion. That, and the liberal application of lubricant ensured a clean fit.
Yes, do change the oil in your forks!
If the tech had been paying attention the first time he wouldn't have had to do the job twice.
I just put tires on my rims. I took a wire wheel to the inside to make sure they were clean and free of any corrosion. That, and the liberal application of lubricant ensured a clean fit.
Yes, do change the oil in your forks!
