Tank Coatings and new tank

Renegade600

XS650 Enthusiast
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Hi all.....what do you guys normally do with a new tank? With the new ethanol fuels and crap gas you get does it make sense to caot the tank before using it?

I've used Kreem before with mised results on used tanks, but have used Caswell sealer with pretty good results...

I only question as I was looking at the J&P catalog the other day (killing time at work) and see that they recommend sealing new tanks or the warranty is not good......I bought a tank at a good price on evilbay.....

My first thought is not to seal it as it should not be needed.....Thoughts?
Tom
 
Yeah I'm in the same boat. I bought a new tank to use and they also recommend sealing it. I think I'm going to just to be on the safe side, just so there's no chance of messing up the new paint.
 
I've never used any tank sealer products, so I can't really comment on their effectiveness. But it seems to me, if they're asking you to use it in a new tank, they don't have much faith in the integrity of their tanks. Just my .02.
 
When these bikes were new , were the tanks sealed? Does Mike recommend to seal his tank? I'm not the most experienced mechanic but it seems funny to me to seal a new tank. :shrug:
 
BMW seals all their tanks from the factory. Fuel eventually collects moisture which will corrode unprotected steel over time, I have a '76 BMW, zero rust in the tank.
 
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I'm not sure what il do yet....i probably run premium in the bike to stay away from the ethanol at least......i don't really want to seal a new tank...seems dumb to me...
Tom
 
I don't see how you plan on staying away from ethanol. The stuff is in the fuel in most parts of the country now as far as I know. I can attest to what it will do to an Omar's fiberglass tank. You put an amber colored gas in the tank and it comes out blue and the sticky mess ends up in your gas tank to plug up all your jets.
Jefft
 
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Yes you should seal the tank. Don't listen to the guys that say or its dumb or any of that b.s. If you want your shit to last or atleast not cleaning your carbs twice a year seal the tank. I used eastwoods tank sealer last time. Worked ok but think im going to use kreem next time.
 
I have used Kreem in the past (on a used, crusty, tank), and even with all the proper prep it really kind of fell short.....

My buddy had the opportunity to use Caswell on a set of pretty nasty fatboy tanks two years ago and even with less than stellar prep, that stuff really worked well.....

I'm still on the fence on this one...
Tom
 
I'd use a tank just as it came from the factory. If they recommended putting some sealer in it, I'd use a different tank instead.... My tank is 30 years old. Bare metal inside. Still good shape. I suspect you'd be hard pressed to find a coating with that kind of life span.
 
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Premium gas usually contains up to 10% ethanol too. Just got to check the label on the pump.

I just noticed at my local Chevron station that the Supreme Plus ( 94 octane ) has a label that says it contains NO ETHANOL. My Omar's tank just arrived so this is what I'll be using.
 
I have painted 2 new tanks in the past 10 yrs. I did not apply any sealant to the inside of the tanks and I have had zero issues. I know guys who had issues from sealing them, such as vent tubes getting plugged. My opinion....Not necessary
 
Gents....A lot of things changed, fuel systems compatability wise, with regards to the fuel systems components of our old carbureted XS 650's when ethanol was mixed with gasoline in much of our fuel supply. You may want to "Google Up" some info. on ethanol mixtures in gasoline, effects on old cars, engines & fuel systems.....it's really quite interesting. Here's one piece eg.

http://www.hagerty.com/ethanol/faq.aspx

It seems to me we need to re-think our "gasoline" as now more of a fuel mixture than just 'gas' with or without ethanol. With ethanol the mixture now attracts water as both vapor and liquid and it mixes with gasoline as opposed to floating on top of it. It is both a greater solvent and as an electrolyte which enhances both oxidation (rust) and galvanic action between dissimilar metals (wonder no more about why your soldered brass carb floats started leaking & filling with fuel as the solder disappeared). Much less why your carb boots and all those little rubber O-rings quit functioning. And yes a lot of things could well use the protection of specialty coatings against oxidation (rust), corrosion and galvanic deterioration of dissimilar metals.

Could be a very good topic in general with regard to lots..... Certainly to include a number of very good though different tank linings and coatings needed much more now than in the days of gasoline pumps & tanks. Blue
 
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Are your tanks steel or fiberglass. If you have a fiberglass tank and live where I do I bet you would have some tank issues in short order. I don't think you would have issues with ethanol in a steel tank. Its a fiberglass tank that the stuff attacks.
jefft
 
jefft did you look at Blues link? Also did you see my post about a liner in your other thread?

Blue, I've seen that galvonic reaction in the thoats of small engine carbs. The corrosion hangs up the choke plate. Since I drain my float bowls if they sit over a week I hope the brass floats in '79 hold up. I've had good luck with the Redkote and ethanol You've mentioned it being blue instead of red now. Isn't the blue their low VOC line?
 
I know their are liners available and I could line my new Omars tank with them. I tried relining my old Omars tank as a last ditch effor to save the thing. I had lined with Castwells lining before with no problem on a steel tank. I may have not kept rotating the tank frequently enough because the stuff burnt a hole right through the fiberglass tank. Here's my thought. If I pay $359 dollars for an Omars tank, why the hell should I have to spend another $50.00 to make his tank work with the possibility of ruining the tank in the process? One more thing. Read the info on Omars site. If you crash (I know can't happen to me right) that tank can fracture. Take it from someone who has worked in a hospital burn unit, that isn't something you want.
 
Kreem is the worst shit I have ever used. Period.

Por15 Was a decent sealer, but now I have found RedKote, and if this stuff will seal all the tanks at "Wheels Thru Time", then you know it is good stuff... They have tanks that barely have paint holding them together and they don't leak, and yes, the whole museum runs :thumbsup:


I just RedKoted a 1957 Famous James tank that has been on my bike since I built it. The metal is old, fatigued, and i has hairline cracks in random spots that just can't be fixed. Kreem did nothing to stop it from leaking, POR15 was better, but after I had to weld in new bungs, I got the RedKote. That stuff sealed up 1/8" holes when i tested it on a piece of scrap metal. Its fairly flexible as well...


And yes, new tanks should be sealed. Once you get a few thousand miles on a new tank, and your brand new paint is coming off in sheets because of a tiny gas leak, you'll be really upset about it....
 
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