Oil after valve adjustment

harmonc

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I have an 83, I adjusted the valves and after that left cylinder started blowing oil when I started the bike-I used .006 for the exhaust and .003 for intake. It is really blowing oil from that side. Cylinder plug is also wet with oil-what could have caused this, what is wrong.

??
Chris
 
yup. you mite have disturbed the valva stem seal there. look closely in there and see if the seal is still seated around the end of the valve. if it is, guide could be bad.
 
A valve adjustment is unlikely to cause oil out the exhaust. I think your leakage was there before. What is the history of the bike? When was the last time it ran with no oil out the exhaust..................or is this bike new to you?

A leaking head gasket will have lots of oil going out the exhaust. Try using 30 ft-lbs on the large head studs...............remove top motor mount to access the inner studs.
 
I have been having alot of trouble with this bike firing only out of left cylinder. I changed over to a boyer and both sides fired right up. But when it fired right up I noticed some smoke coming out of that side. I made the adjustment to the valves which were way out of spec. I fire it right up and oil started blowing from that cylinder. I also pulled the plug and it is wet with oil.

What do you think-head gasket?

Thanks
 
I'm having the same problem, I just did a rebuild though, so I'm wondering if I just need to re-torque the head? BIke runs awesome though, but it's blowing smoke out of the left cylinder, even through the carb. Plug isn't oil fouled though on mine.
 
what color smoke, claybear? you rings arent settled in yet. get some miles on it. if it smokes when u rev it, its prolly too rich. drop the needle.
 
It's white smoke, only coming out the one side though, and through the carb too which I don't get. But like I said I just re-built it, like maybe a day ago, and I've only ridden maybe 10 miles so far. Still trying to work out all of the other gremlins, leaking petcock, leaking t fitting between the carbs, etc. Went through the carbs today though, somewhat, I had thought a float was stuck since it was leaking, but it was the t fitting.
It's a 1980, so there really wasn't much I could do to adjust the carbs, but I did find that on the left cylinder what I think is the air mixture screw? It's towards the engine on the top of the carb, was turned all the way in, and the right was turned all the way out. I set them at about 3.5 turns out.
It really only does smoke when I rev it, or when I'm dropping back down to idle. This was my first time really rebuilding the top end of one of these so I was kinda worried I screwed something up.
 
Oh I should probably also note that the same cylinder on mine that's blowing smoke was the cylinder that had the piston with the hole through it. I'm really starting to wonder if maybe this winter that will be the cause of me buying a big bore kit. I'm just itching for an excuse, plus a hotter cam, and maybe an adjustable ignition, and oooh, some del orto carbs... All this after I finally cut her up... Excuse me, I need to go clean myself up.
 
You said you honed the cylinders. What kind of hone did you use and how long did you run it in the cylinder? The 3 or 4 stone type is not recommended for just glaze breaking, it can enlarge the bore if used too long. The "bottle brush" style or Flex hone is the preferred type. Also, if re-using old rings, you usually don't hone, just clean everything really good.
 
white smoke?? wierd. burning oil i guesse. I rebiult mine. new pistons, rings, honing. no white smoke but black out the right cyl. too rich. i know. but the white smoke is strange.
I had no clue in rebiulding mine. I bought mikes 6th over cylinder kit(wich he dont sell any more) took it to a machine shop. said make it happy, and i got 150/150 comp.
Hope we can figure this out.
 
I used the 3 stone :( didn't know it wasn't any good for that engine. I only ran it up and down about twice at a low speed, just enough to get a cross hatch. I used new rings though! I dunno, I re-torqued the head today, it seems like it's not smoking as bad as it did the first couple of quick runs that I've made. I might need to re-check the carbs and valves though since I've ran it for awhile now. Probably wouldn't be a terrible idea.
 
Well, since you installed new rings, you would want to hone. Since you didn't run the hone long, you should be OK. The new rings hopefully just need to seat in. Give it a few hundred miles and see.
 
When I rebuild an engine I torque the head to stock spec's, let it set 24 hrs, retorque to 8 big bolts to 30 ft-lbs. Install in bike, fire it up run till warmed up, 5-10 minutes, next day retorque to 30.
I then ride the bike, get uo to about 35 to 40 mph in 4th gear, roll on the throttle, firm not hard. Up to about 45-50, back off the throttle, coast down to the 35-40 mph. Do this at least 4 or 5 times. Next day check the torque, any less than 30 ft-lbs get tightened. Take it for another ride and repeat the roll on coast routine.
Next day recheck the torque. I might do the same routine the next couple days. I do this untill the 8 headbolts hold the torque. Then I'll check the torque at 500 miles, 1000 miles then every other oil change. Till around 5000 miles then once a year. Every spring as part of the wake up procedure.
The roll on and coast helps the rings seat in. The heat up cool down cycles helps settle the head and jugs to the cases.
Once the 8 headbolts hold their torque, rechecking can be done when ever you think is appropiate.
I just read what I wrote and found a few confusing things. I fixed them.
 
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