Different number on camshaft and signs of wear.

BigBoreSwede

XS650 Addict
Messages
219
Reaction score
1
Points
18
Location
Middle of Sweden
Hello.....again.


There going to be alot of threads from me this winter I guess since I´m a beginner at engine maintence. Hope you guys bear with me:)

My cam has the 447 mark on it while my engine is a 3L1. How come?? Maybe there is no difference?

I´m also sending some pictures of the camshaft, rockers (is that the right name??) and bearing seat on the head cover. Does it look normal or is there anything in those pictures that looks suspicious?


Thanks alot!

/BigBoreSwede
 

Attachments

  • FB188018.JPG
    FB188018.JPG
    277.5 KB · Views: 178
  • FB188019.JPG
    FB188019.JPG
    269.2 KB · Views: 158
  • FB188017.JPG
    FB188017.JPG
    248.1 KB · Views: 182
  • FB188023.JPG
    FB188023.JPG
    254.1 KB · Views: 158
  • FB188027.JPG
    FB188027.JPG
    240.4 KB · Views: 154
  • FB188029.JPG
    FB188029.JPG
    248.9 KB · Views: 142
Ohh....I forgot. 3 of the rocker are sligthly "loose" when you pull them side to side. There´s only one of them that feels real tight. Is that bad?

/BigBoreSwede
 
I would not use that camshaft because of the pitting. As for the rocker arms they can be refaced. You'd probably be best to take them to an engine shop if you are not to confident in your abilities. Here is a video on how they reface rocker arms, you could do it yourself with a bench grinder and a fine grinding stone.
 
The loose ones side to side are O.K. It is the tight one I would be worried about. But if you are going to reface them you want to take them out any way, then you can check all your fits and clearances.
 
All the cams from 74 up are the same. Yours do look a bit rough. Your rocker arms aren't to bad, I might try polishing them up with 600 then 800 then 1000 grit sand paper. Using oil to lubricate the sandpaper.
If you pull the rocker get four bolts that thread into the shafts. Screw the bolts in the shafts, leave them in till you put the shafts back in. This will keep you from putting the shafts in wrong. Keep the rocker and shafts together and put them back in the places they came from. Your stiff roacker may be from oil burnt on the shaft.
From the look of things it looks like some one ran to long between oil changes or ran it low on oil.
 
Hello

Today I pulled the rest of the head/cylinder so now it´s time to overhaul what´s necessary, order parts and put it together.

Here are some pictuers and I need some help reading the signs.


Ohh...by the way. The last picture shows the preparation before I started the "surgery" on the camchain to split it. Feels good to be a surgeon sometimes when you´re a carpenter in teal life...hehehehe.


/BigBoreSwede
 

Attachments

  • FB208082.JPG
    FB208082.JPG
    272.3 KB · Views: 154
  • FB208080.JPG
    FB208080.JPG
    232.2 KB · Views: 140
  • FB208079.JPG
    FB208079.JPG
    241.7 KB · Views: 170
  • FB208078.JPG
    FB208078.JPG
    261.9 KB · Views: 150
  • FB208076.JPG
    FB208076.JPG
    270.7 KB · Views: 154
  • FB208062.JPG
    FB208062.JPG
    227.1 KB · Views: 142
those rockers look fine,do not reface them cuz they're hard chromed from the factory or if you do the rockers faces will need to be hard welded back,that minimal pitting on the cam lobes isn't going to effect performance or cause premature rocker wear. Your major problem the is contamination of oil deluding the fuel mixture.
 
This "dirt" (I don´t know the name of the black sh-t) that you see on the piston head and some in the chambers.....what´s resulting that sympton??

It should either be the valve gasket or piston rings or both, am I right?

Or is this something thát occurs after a while anyway??


/BigBoreSwede
 
The black stuff is carbon build up. Just a byproduct of burning something. Like the soot from a candle, smoke from a fire. It happens in all engines.
 
Ok XSLeo.

What´s the trick to get rid of it. Some sort of carbcleaner or do I have to machine it in some way??

Ohhh...also. Can you guys see the "pins" in one of the pictures? How come 2 of them are dirty from oil and stuff? Sign of a broken gasket maybe?
By the way.....the gasket that´s shown feels really bad in a way. It´s all cracked and seems to be used twice, or something like that......hmmm.


/BigBoreSwede
 
On your gasket it looks like the head wasn't kept torqued and it leaked from the cam chain tunnel into the chambers. This is probly where the soot on the cylinder studs is from. That may be why there is more carbon build up on the one side.
You can scrap most off, careful not to gouge the pistons, oven cleaner, wire brush.
 
Carbon should cover the entire piston top. The fact that yours are clean around the edges indicates that oil was leaking up past the rings and washing that outer area clean. You need at the very least new rings and maybe more depending on the bore condition.
 
Well, the pistons mesures 80mm across so that would be 750 pistons.

I´m at a crossroad here! The reason I put the engine apart like this was because of rubber and some metal in the old meshfilters when I bought the bike. I did the spin-on filter setup (both of them) and drove the bike th whole summer. When I took of the filters a saw some more rubber/metal I guessed it came from the camchain guide/tensioner.

Now this I what I, and all of you see. A engine in an uncertain condition. You can also read the thread "It should not be there!!" There you´ll see some horrifying pictures very soon:banghead:

Best thing is to leave it all to a machine shop the mesure everything and fix what´s needed to be fixed.......but it´s always about money. What´s most cheap in the end is another story:laugh:

/BigBoreSwede
 
From what I can see in the pic, I don't think the rings were bad.
It looks like the pistons used to build the engine stood up above the top of the cylinder. The top of the pistons look like they were turned down so they fit up into the combustion chamber.
If the piston to head clearence was close as the piston came up this area would act as a squish area and this would push the mixture in toward the center of the chamber. This would keep the carbon build up in the center of the piston.
I measured the chamber in a head. It measures about 75.5 mm. With an 80 mm piston you get a 4.5 mm difference. This ring around the head will act as a squish area by itself. Then with the turned piston it will increase this squish area.
I wonder just what the compression ratio is with that set up. 12-1 maybe better.
 
Not sure what the parts situation is in Sweden but it might be worth hunting down another motor, or parts bike and swap out of the items you are worried about. It is hard to figure what someone else did to the motor. I would do all I could before putting it into a machine shop unless you have the money handy and plan on owning the bike a long time and riding the tires off it.
 
Back
Top