some wiring diagrams

So how does the diagram in post #695 get away without the brown and green? Unless the Pma doesn't need it. If the Pma doesn't need it, does my question from 695 pose true?
 
So how does the diagram in post #695 get away without the brown and green? Unless the Pma doesn't need it. If the Pma doesn't need it, does my question from 695 pose true?

A PMA is different from the stock OEM type alternator and rec/reg units. The PMA rectification and regulation are done in the one component. Brown and green wires are not required. You're asking if a capacitior/PMA can run with just a rectifier and no regulator..............answer is no. A PMA with a battery, also needs a regulator.

Every alternator that runs from a variable speed engine requires a voltage regulator, because the voltage produced goes up and down with the rpm.
 
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thanks for all the info on wiring. these boards have been a great resource!
I'm working out my build, and I attempted to re-draw the wiring Diagram so that i could visualize the layout better.
I've got the Mikes PMA, and a boyer ignition already installed.

I'm not sure what to do with the black wire off the reg / rec, and whether or not my turn signal set-up is correct.

Any insight would be much appreciated!

thanks!
 

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I do a lot of custom harnesses and your diagram looks good the only advice that I could give you is start in sections first. Do the front 3 wires for head light then do the 3 wires for tail 2 wires for brake switch 2 wires for horn and on and on. If you break it up its easier to understand. I setup all the wires and the route runs then I can shrink wrap them up that I know are done because if you make up all the connections first you can only tape them up. Here is a picture of one layout ready to be shrink wrapped. Always do turn signals last they are the biggest head ack because you have to match turn signal with proper flasher and turn signal switch.
First pic is layout Second pic is FRONT LIGHTS 3 WIRE 2 WIRE HORN 1 WIRE FOR PAMCO-BOYER
Third Pic is 3 WIRE TAIL light and 2 WIRE BRAKE SWITCH Fourth pic Looks like a mess but now you have all the basic wires and you add the rest . Here is what mine look like when done with box. Also try and stay with separate colors its a little more money but if you ever have to go back you know what the white wires is the red wires should always be hot's (12 volts) all the BLACK GROUNDS and they should all meet and ground together Chassis grounds are not always good.
If you have any question on where I buy wires and stuff contact me at DADDYGCYCLES@YAHOO.COM
Good Luck RICH
 

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So here's my predicament.... I got a new battery from auto zone. When I tried reconnecting it, the terminals were on the opposite side. (Now the leads have to reach all the way across the battery) My question is did I get the wrong battery, am I getting the leads mixed up or am I going to have to figure out a way to make these leads longer so they reach the terminals?

1983 yamaha xs650s
 
so i got this little problem i got the horn hooked up so the hot lead goes to the horn button and the lead then goes down to the horn spade, ( two spade horn) then the other spade another lead goes to ground, hit the button horn sounds, then the fuse blows (10 amp) in the wiring diagram there is a hot lead going directly to horn and the horn button activates to ground why does my wiring blowing fuses?
 
so i got this little problem i got the horn hooked up so the hot lead goes to the horn button and the lead then goes down to the horn spade, ( two spade horn) then the other spade another lead goes to ground, hit the button horn sounds, then the fuse blows (10 amp) in the wiring diagram there is a hot lead going directly to horn and the horn button activates to ground why does my wiring blowing fuses?

You have put the horn button in a different location, but that in itself is not a problem. It should work that way as well. Your horn may be defective. I think they normally draw about 2 amps.

You could take the horn to the bench and use your VOM to measure the amps of the horn to isolate the problem. With it on the bike, its possible the wiring to the horn is bare somewhere and causing a short circuit.
 
that did not occur to me, since the horn and all the wiring is new, but i did measure the draw to about 18 amps when the button is pushed down. with my multi tester.and the horn sounds weak not loud and crisp.
 
that did not occur to me, since the horn and all the wiring is new, but i did measure the draw to about 18 amps when the button is pushed down. with my multi tester.and the horn sounds weak not loud and crisp.

18 amps:yikes:..............no wonder your fuse is blowing!

It must be one honking big horn (pun intended :D) So where did you get the monster horn and what are the specs for it?
 
no stock placement on Mikes website but the Canadian version of it
http://www.xs650direct.com/parts/img250/32-7511.jpg


BTW thanks never would have thought it was the horn

Obviously a defective horn. Send it back for a refund. Sadly, many of the parts sold by Mikesxs are poor quality. I've bought many parts through the years, that were so bad as to be unuseable.

For this very reason, when my horn's sound was dying a few years ago, I decided to do a simple overhaul of my OEM stock horn. I drilled out the rivets, holding it together, cleaned the contacts, and put it back together with small bolts. Works like new again.

Edit: The OEM horns have an adjustment on them. The one you bought may also have that adjustment screw. You could give that a try. It might get the horn working properly.
 
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It was not the horn!, so listen , hot lead directly to horn spade, 2nd lead going from horn to button, button acts as ground and completes the circuit. its a wonder the way i had it hooked up that it would work at all. Thank Retiredgentleman you made me look in the right place, learned something about horns.
 
It was not the horn!, so listen , hot lead directly to horn spade, 2nd lead going from horn to button, button acts as ground and completes the circuit. its a wonder the way i had it hooked up that it would work at all. Thank Retiredgentleman you made me look in the right place, learned something about horns.

We like to hear the end of the story....................can you share what the real problem was??
 
ok real problem same as previous messages. but i will endevour to paint a clearer picture.
stock the pink wire goes to the horn button and the horn button when pressed is the ground completing the circuit, the brown constant power goes to the other spade on the horn. the way I had it hooked up... was the hot lead to the horn button and the pink to one spade connector of the horn and the other spade connector to ground. in essence grounding the hot lead.
 
has anyone out there used a small lithium battery without changing the charging system to a newer electronic model...I heard the older systems might over charge and damage the battery
 
has anyone out there used a small lithium battery without changing the charging system to a newer electronic model...I heard the older systems might over charge and damage the battery

really !? no problems with mine for 3 years running a Shorai , using a 306 motor but, I am using a pma and a pamco so its not quite stock. I asked tech at shorai that and they said they would not sell them if that was the case because they really have no control what peeps are putting them in.
 
Thnx for the reply...just got on the Shorai website and learned a lot..thnx again..also found better prices than I was looking at with a different brand! sonny
 
Thnx for the reply...just got on the Shorai website and learned a lot..thnx again..also found better prices than I was looking at with a different brand! sonny

be carefull of the brand some of my fellow builders have had alot of problems with the other brands not sure which ones maybe shoot me a name and I will ask
 
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