how to remove starter bolts?

78whiteorbs

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Went about the seemly easy task of replacing my starter today as the 75'XS I got runs great but the starter is fried. Got a replacement starter but cannot figure out how to get the rear bolts off it ?/???? I saw some guy actually bent a cheap wrench in a vise . Is there any other way? Does anyone know how the manual says to do it? I was hoping to not have to remove the pipes.

Oh and this is my first post here, looks like a good forum for the XS
 
Welcome to the site! That was probably my picture of the bent wrench.. Those bolts are a bitch to get at with the engine still in the frame. I too thought it would be an easy job, only to have it take way too damn long! Since bending the wrench, I bought standard and metric sets of these flex-head ratcheting wrenches for getting at bolts in weird places, but I'm not sure if they'll help with the XS starter. Maybe someone else will come along with a better way to get them out with the engine still in the frame.
 

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an offset wrench *ding* of course! It's funny sometimes I hink so far out of the box I forget about more obvious means. I do wonder what the manual instructs for removal, though I am to cheap to buy one on principal.

thanks, pamcopete~
 
:doh: I think I just had that same "ding" go off in my head when I saw that wrench. :laugh: It's been a while since I've tried to replace a starter with the engine still in the frame.

At least I was right about someone else coming along with an easy solution. :D Now if only that offset wrench would ratchet .... (I guess they probably make those too)
 
I use a stubby ratchet wrench after breaking them free.

I find it a bigger PITA to get the bolts started then tightening/loosening them.
 
can you enlighten me as to what a stubby ratchet is ?I could not fit any ratchet in there. Even ratchet wrenches...
 
OK, so I got the old one out and made a mess of oil :)
so stupid.... but put the new one on and now it sounds grind nasty . Actuall started the bike a few times but sounds God aweful . Guessing the bendeix gear is shot. How difficult lond a procedure is this to replace? I found the kit ar mikesxs so it must be a fairly common problem . It is the nastiest sounding grinding . Bikes kick over on first kick though and runs very well just would like to have use of the magic button in case of a stall or something in traffic . Anybody have any links to any threads here on this ?
Do I have to remove the engine ?
 
OK, so I got the old one out and made a mess of oil :)
so stupid.... but put the new one on and now it sounds grind nasty . Actuall started the bike a few times but sounds God aweful . Guessing the bendeix gear is shot. How difficult lond a procedure is this to replace? I found the kit ar mikesxs so it must be a fairly common problem . It is the nastiest sounding grinding . Bikes kick over on first kick though and runs very well just would like to have use of the magic button in case of a stall or something in traffic . Anybody have any links to any threads here on this ?
Do I have to remove the engine ?

- in my mind the best thing you can do with e-starts is to throw them away and seal the space up

- basically they were an add-on to appease the press-XS1 didnt have any...there is far too much distance between the e-start and the crank, the parts wear and chew the crankshaft gear out...if this is worn you can forget fixing the problem unless you replace the crank with a good one

- you need the bendix repair kit #24-6522, to fit this you need to drain your oil, remove RH footpeg, brake pedal, kickstart lever, RH case and the clutch-get a clutch holding tool, once youve got this far you can see the crankshaft gear

Fig_07.jpg

parts breakdown...youre replacing 2, 3 and 4...make sure 6-9 are located properly
bendixABC.jpg

good bendix...worn bendix
24_6522.jpg

kit...dont push the spring on, come from the side, locate first one side then the other
BendixClipGroove.jpg

goes here...you can just see the edge of the crank gear at 01.00-02.00, if worn may as well give up

- dont expect this to fix your problem forever, the root cause is deeper and will manifest itself again sooner or later
- personally i say install one of these instead

pict1335largemedium.jpg
 
So it was grinding with the old starter and still grinding with the new one? Or did the grinding start only after you put the new starter in?

I was puzzled by the starter on an XS650 once. Couldn't figure the damn thing out! Had 3 or 4 different bendix sets that I kept swapping around and playing with the clips. Even ordered a new one. I got pretty damn good at put Bendix's in an out of the motor. It would start just fine sometimes and other times just grind. Sounded just like the bendix problem. Turns out, the previous owner forgot a spacer in the starter gear reduction box and one of the gears in there was able to float left and right on the shaft. Sometimes it would be in the correct spot and work, and other times it would just grind. :banghead: Was so pissed that I wasted all that time and energy only to find out it was just a missing part, but was relieved at the same time to finally find the problem.
 
The old starter did absolutely nothing at all. click click .....
This one is making a really really horrible sound . I would not describe it as a rattle but a wicked bone crunching grind that makes you cringe to think your bike is making such a sound> A local small bike shop owner said that the new gear at mikesxs was an improvement on the original and definately go for replacing it . I am only concerned that it could be something else like a toasted crankshaft gear as well in which case I would be wasting alotta gas money ! He said he'd change it out for 80-120 ,I'd really like to have an e-start as well they are very convient in heavy traffic in hot weather. Also am curious how difficult the job is to do , I never removed a clutch before.

thanks for sharing about the spacer. One thing I wondered was I didnt see a seal when I removed the starter. after reinstalling though there was not any oil leaking anywhere though. hmmmm....
 
- this is a job you can do for yourself with no problem, the only thing you really want is a clutch holder
- if you catch it early enough you can get away with only replacing the spring clip

an014_02_jpg.jpg


- youre not going to know until you get it apart, check the crank gear too

- there are 2 seals and 2 o-rings, 1 seal and the 2 o-rings are in the starter housing, the other seal is behind the plate that sits under the front chain drive...ive personally never seen that seal leak, but the seal in the end of the starter body can, when it does the starter gets full of oil and crud

Fig_07.jpg

seal...#26..34-46-10.5

P3080002.jpg

seal...#6..17-28-8, o-rings...#7..yamaha only?
 
Well, when my Bendix on my '78/E needed replacement way back in '96, I removed the return spring (that's #2 above) so I could use the worn gear while waiting for the new one to arrive.

Because the old worn out gear worked so well with the return spring removed, I did not install it with the new gear.

That was 13 years and 60,000 miles ago. I have inspected the gear a few times over the years, including lying down on the floor and watching it engage with the cover off. Not a sign of wear.

Conclusion? The return spring slows the engagement of the gear down and prevents the #4 gear from completely engaging the flywheel teeth, thus leading to the eventual failure of the #4 gear. The engine starting spins the gear back wards sufficiently to disengage after starting and the safety relay immediately cuts off the starter motor.

Ride. Enjoy. Life is simple :bike:
 
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ok, let me get this right , you just removed the spring and it worked just fine?

I went ahead and ordered the gear and spring from MikesXS so I will be switching those out when they come in .
 
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