Dyna ignition booster.

hay has any one used a dyna ignition booster with points?

I haven't used the Dyna booster but I have made a "booster" with junk yard parts.

Use a DIS (dual output) coil from a GM car.



And a Ford TFI ignition module.



There are four different TFI modules. There are gray ones and black ones, and each of those were either made to mount directly to the distributor or were mounted to a separate heat sink. The one you want is the gray one on a heat sink, as shown above. These are mostly found on the trucks. If you can't find one then you can piece one together using the more common distributor mount gray module and heat sink from a black module. All you need to do is cut off the extra three pins coming out the top of the distributor mount module and it will bolt right up. The six pins in the main connector are identical.



Pin 6 is ground.

Pin 5 goes to one of the primary coil leads.

Pin 1, Pin 4, and the other primary coil lead hook to your 12 volt source (ignition switch).

Pin 2 hooks to your points.

Remove the condensers and wire the points together. They close alternately so the module will see a steady 50% duty signal, which is exactly what it got from the distributor originally. That is just a coincidence, not a requirement. The TFI only looks at the rising edge of the signal (points opening) and determines it's own dwell, regardless of the input duty. That means that it will work on anything with points. I have hooked them up to V8's and Volks Wagons. I even helped a guy, via e-mail, hook one up to his garden tractor.

The TFI modules have a fantastic dynamic dwell control and a peak current of seven amps, which just means that it is very powerful and efficient. It's the best OEM ignition module I've seen. It's even better than most of the aftermarket modules.

Do you have a sketch of the wiring scematic you could post?

MS Paint to the rescue...

Mr Riggs,
Am I safe in assuming this arrangement replaces the coils as well. I always like upgrades that utilize off the shelf automotive parts.

ReycleBill said:

Mr Riggs,
Am I safe in assuming this arrangement replaces the coils as well.

Click to expand...

Yes, the two stock coils are replaced by the one dual-output coil.

mrriggs said:

Yes, the two stock coils are replaced by the one dual-output coil.

Click to expand...

Thanks!! That's what I thought but I wanted to be sure. Would this also work with electronic ignition?

WHAT YEAR AND ENG. FORD HAD THAT MODULE AND HEAT SINK ?

ReycleBill said:

Would this also work with electronic ignition?

Click to expand...

I assume you mean the stock TCI ignition? You have two options there.

1. Keep the TCI box and use it to trigger the TFI module. This will retain the electronic advance but is cumbersome and less reliable since you will have two ignition modules.

2. Ditch the TCI and TFI and use an HEI module which will allow you to drive the DIS coil directly from the stock crank trigger. I haven't [yet] tried this setup but I'm sure it would work. The only question is how the dwell circuit in the HEI will react to the signal fromn the crank trigger. You would probably need to build an external bias circuit to bypass the dwell control. That is actally quite easy, just a couple diodes and a resistor.

The crank trigger has two coils. You would need to play around with it a bit to figure out the polarity of the wires and how much advance each one will give you. Then you could hook up a switch to select either low or high advance. You could even hook it to the throttle so it would automatically select low advance when you let off and high advance when you give it gas. I haven't probed an XS650 TCI but I know that the TCI on my XS400 did exactly that, a hard switch from low to high advance at a certain threshold. The TCI was reading RPM instead of throttle position but the effect will be the same. The only difference is the throttle sensor would give more engine braking and possibly a pop-pop out the exhaust when you let off at speed.

Or you can forget all that and just wire it to give you full advance all the time. As long as you're not a big dude that likes to lug it around at 2000 rpm, it'll run fine. I have been running mine "locked out" for several months and haven't once had it kick back when starting or ping when taking off. The motor idles stronger and sounds much cleaner and quieter.

Thanks again!

DIRTY DOG said:

WHAT YEAR AND ENG. FORD HAD THAT MODULE AND HEAT SINK ?

Click to expand...

The gray distributor mount TFI (no heat sink) was used from '83 to '93 on pretty much all Ford cars and trucks.

The gray heat sink mount TFI was used on '88 to '97 trucks and vans. You may also find them on late 80's Taurus and T-Bird.

The black heat sink mount TFI was used on most cars and trucks from '91 to '97.

You do not want to use the black module, it has no built in dwell control. However, it is the easiest to find with the heat sink. The distributor mount gray modules are also easy to find. The gray modules with a heat sink are not as common.

As I mentioned before, you can fit the distributor mount gray module to the heat sink from a black module by simply cutting off the extra pins on the top. Just take a hack saw and cut through the plastic boss that the pins are coming out of so that the top of the module is completely flat.

The screws that hold the module down are tricky to get to. Ford made a special tool but I have found that a 7/32 deep wall socket will fit in there.

I dredged up this old thread because I want to copy what Mrriggs did with that ignition control module. Can anyone tell me if you have to use a dual-output coil, like he did, instead of the stock dual coils? I have a BMW R90/6, and I'd like to use the TFI module specified by Mrriggs, but I would like to keep my stock dual coils if possible.

stevenbarker said:

I dredged up this old thread because I want to copy what Mrriggs did with that ignition control module. Can anyone tell me if you have to use a dual-output coil, like he did, instead of the stick dual coils? I have a BMW R90/6, and I'd like to use the TFI module specified by Mrriggs, but I would like to keep my stock dual coils if possible.

Click to expand...

You will need two modules to run two coils.

Oh, and just a quick note. I recently helped a guy via e-mail convert his Goldwing over to TFI. He was using aftermarket TFI modules and could not get it to run properly, spitting and backfiring. After weeks of fighting with it, he made a trip to the junk yard and got some genuine Ford modules. It ran great after that.

I am not using a booster, but I am using Mr. Riggs G.M. coil set up with my Boyer ignition. It works great without any problems. First kick starts with battery or dual capacitors. Thanks again Mr. Riggs.

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Thanks, Mrriggs, that's good to know! You said I would need to use two modules if I use two coils, so that's probably not the best way for me to go. It would require me to buy two OEM Ford modules (which cost about $20 -50 each on ebay) and would require more parts, wiring, and connections than your setup above. I really like the simplicity of your setup: one coil, one module.

So now I'm looking to copy your system as closely as possible, including the single dual-output coil. I found this NOS GM coil on ebay:

http://www.ebay.com/itm/NOS-Sorense...Parts_Accessories&hash=item588546cb10&vxp=mtr

Does that look like the same coil as the one you used?

I just looked at a schematic for the R90 and see that they have the two coils wired in series. So it's basically a dual output coil made from two separate coils. You could fire that with a single module.

I don't know how the TFI module will react to the higher resistance coils? Couldn't hurt to try it since you already have the coils. If the TFI doesn't work properly with the stock coils then switch to the DIS coil.

The BMWs use 6v coils wired in series, so you end up with 12v total for the two coils. MrRiggs, I have a question - why do you remove the condenser? Won't the points pit and arch without it?

5twins said:

MrRiggs, I have a question - why do you remove the condenser? Won't the points pit and arch without it?

Click to expand...

With the points triggering a TFI they will not see the high current and flyback voltage from the coil so there will be no arcing.

The condenser is removed because it may cause a latency delay in the signal from the points to the TFI which could effect the timing.

mrriggs said:

I just looked at a schematic for the R90 and see that they have the two coils wired in series. So it's basically a dual output coil made from two separate coils. You could fire that with a single module.

Click to expand...

OK, that's good to know. Thanks!

I looked on ebay today for a Ford module. The one that you used (Motorcraft E7DF-12A297 A1A) cost about $20 used and about $50 new. So I looked for similar ones, and found this one for only $10:

http://www.ebay.com/itm/BWD-Borg-Wa...Parts_Accessories&hash=item3a9ea24e80&vxp=mtr

Does anyone here know if the Borg Warner module will work the same as the Motorcraft E7DF-12A297 A1A? It has three extra prongs, but I read that may not be a problem?