15W-40 vs 20W-50 oil

How much zinc is necessary and how much is present? Does something else take care of the missing zinc's job?

Recommended by Castrol: min Zn = 0.12 = 1200 ppm. Castrol invented ZDDP

Using different metals in modern engines reduces the need for zinc. Also, modern engines with dual overhead cams working directly on the valves eliminates the rocker arm to valve stem contact and lifters. The wear takes place on the shim disks on top of the valves and are easily replaced. My DOHC CB750 has this arrangement as well and the shims can be easily replaced during routine maintenance.

Here is a more detailed discussion by Valvoline:

http://www.valvoline.com/faqs/motor-oil/racing-oil/

Google for more information.
 
The Shell Rotella 15-40 is rated for motorcycles. It has the JASO MA rating which is for motorcycle engines where the trans and engine share the same oil.
 
Google for more information.

I've looked into it before. I stopped when I found what I wanted to see :) It was some document from an oil company saying in effect reduced zinc was still a sufficient amount. Old engine, new engine, style of valvetrain; who knows. But I'm not seeing any problems. I get adjuster pitting but nothing else, so I'm still happy. No clear reason to switch to a much harder to find oil at the present time.

I did use Valvoline motorcycle oil once, and the oil level dropped surprisingly fast. I've had the same experience changing to synthetic oil with some cars.

I think I read once that good ol' STP oil treatment is chocked full of zinc, for anybody who likes additives.

BTW if anyone's opposition to the Shell is increased noise, that doesn't happen in the 20s (F). It never gets that thin then...
 
The Shell Rotella 15-40 is rated for motorcycles. It has the JASO MA rating which is for motorcycle engines where the trans and engine share the same oil.

15/40 is rated for 64 F max. The XS650 runs hot in normal configuration so for me i wouldn't consider it.
 
I've been using Yamalube 20w50 for years in all my bikes with no issues. More money, but how much do you really buy in a year? :thumbsup:
 
There is no degree symbol on the keyboard but it can be had by using the numbers lock then hold down the "alt" key while typing 0176 on the number pad, like so - 64°.
 
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You won't convince me that any oil of any weight or type isn't good for better than 64 degrees. Unless that is Celsius. I ran a big Suzuki GS1100 for years with a good temp gauge and it ran coolest on 15-40 diesel. Cool means less friction. Also, never put good old STP in a wet clutch engine. I tried it one time and the clutch slipped on hard acceleration, that stuff is too slippery for the plates. A bunch of oil changes couldn't get it all out, I had to pull the clutch basket and wash the plates with gas.
 
never put good old STP in a wet clutch engine.

Good to know then. Not that I would ever use it, but somebody might.

The 64 degrees comes from that chart. Coincidentally or not somewhere in the 60s is about where you can (I can) hear a difference in the top end noise between those two weights of oil.
 
What does "rated for 64 F max" mean?


I wouldn't wantr to use a 15w/40 in temperatures higher than the 64 degrees F as per chart.

Used a 20W/40 in my bike on a 30 Degree C, ( 85 F), day and took the bike on a short test run, (no more than 8Klm and the oil was boiling when i looked through the sight glass.
 
OK. I see that (15W40) now in the chart. The '81 "H" owners manual I referred to earlier recommends 20W40 but I continue to use 20W50.
 
A real important thing to realize when reading and giving opinions about oil and its worth on a forum like this.......

This is an American site so most information is based on American information and directed to an American populace.

Oil varies from country to country and continent to continent.

I have made the mistake before about basing information given about the XS650 from the gurus, (no disrespect intended or implied), based on American information and have applied it to mine here in Australia and found that some things are different. Some small things but could be very important to the overall running of the bike.

My point is on the oil, Learn about what Viscosity means and how it relates to your situation and combine that with research locally, from your local manufacturers, most will have the relevant information regarding ZDDP and viscosity flows information in their fact sheets.

One thing to remember is the standard for oil rating is a set standard. Some multiple weight oils may be a the top end of their rating, closer to a higher rating and some will be at the bottom end of their rating making a lower rated oil as good.

Higher ZDDP levels also affect the oil Viscosity and if ZDDP is added to oil it could do more harm than good, (Caution to angus67). Their is a myth that all oil companies removed or lowered their ZDDP content to .08 to all oils for environmental purposes, but the truth is the laws only applied to oils, (multiple weight), up to and including 30 weight oils. Some of the multiple weight 40's and higher still have more ZDDP than motorcycle specific oils.

Here is some information on ZDDP and its relation to oils and how the Viscosity flow rate is determined. I have included some technical data and the variations on weight aand ZDDP levels on one make of oil,

Modern Oils in Older Engines. From the Jaguar Driver Club

Understanding the SAE Motor Oil Viscosity Standard

ZINC MYTHS AND LEGENDS 2010 UPDATE Although this is from an oil company it explains the various countries requirements and a lot of the myths that relate to this discussion.


15W/40; semi synthetic car light duty diesel oil,


15W/40; heavy duty diesel oil,

20W/50; mineral oil for older cars

20W/50;motorcycle specific
 
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