fitting adjustable fork valves?

CalAl · Feb 4, 2010

I bought a set of adjustable compression damping valves at mikesxs.com - turns out early '77 D model 35mm forks have different (earlier type) damper rods than other '77-84 forks. Can anyone tell me how to fit these valves to the smaller diameter top ends of my dampers? Not included in mikes instructions and apparently he doesn't know.
Thanks

Travis · Feb 4, 2010

Maybe you'll need to get the later damper rods? Or maybe someone swapped out the damper rods in your forks for older style ones? Anyone know if you can swap them?

CalAl, pictures would be helpful.

inxs · Feb 4, 2010

- there is an interesting article in Motorcycle Cruiser apr 97 covering race tech emulator installation...reprinted here

- also here

- edit...pictures

- sag

gantzcb · Feb 4, 2010

I've got the race tech emulators in my 79 (read high buck from 650 central), with 13.25 rear shocks. There is drilling to be done to the rods, but the emulators site right on top. It's a different bike. Easy to flick around and comfortable to ride.

650Skull · Feb 5, 2010

never heard of that before ......some photos would be good so we can compare............. once the damper rods are drilled to allow the emulators to work they, (damper rods),can't be used without the emulators if you decide you do not like or want them

650Skull · Feb 5, 2010

gantzcb said:
I've got the race tech emulators in my 79 (read high buck from 650 central), with 13.25 rear shocks. There is drilling to be done to the rods, but the emulators site right on top. It's a different bike. Easy to flick around and comfortable to ride.

don't forget you have shifted some weight to the front with the 13.25 rear shocks so cornering would be more responsive anyways

grizld1 · Feb 5, 2010

The D-model parts book specifies only extruded-top damper rods; there was no late year design change. The emulator valve is fitted to extruded-top rods by fabricating a spacer to support it. Installation instructions sold with the Race-Tech valves give the specs, but I hope you'll excuse me for not repeating them--a matter of ethics.

gantzcb · Feb 5, 2010

never heard of that before ......some photos would be good so we can compare

650 Skull,
Sorry did not take the pictures. :doh:

The holes you drill will scare you. :yikes:

I wish I had used an endmill in my drill press. It would have made cleaner, more accurate cuts. As I recall you drill the holes out to 5/16th, add two more and open up the holes on the top of the rod. You will not be able to change it back. You'll be shopping for a used set of forks. The ones I bought from "3M" sit right on top of the damper rod without a shim or spacer required. In the instructions it lists some models that require a shim, but they way I read it, it did not apply to the 650's. All said and done, I'm more that happy with the results. :thumbsup:

Tomterrific · Feb 5, 2010

Cut some tubing that fits into the fork leg. Try to find PVC that fits. Fit the tubing over the end of the damper rod by cutting and filing so the tubing sits on top and fills the sides of the extrusion. Do as good of job as you can but it doesn't need to be air tight. Bevel the top of the tube where the new valve sits to help locate it. Now there is a round bowl for the new damper valve to sit on top. The tubing has raised the spring pre load enough that, I suppose, the spacer on top of the spring is not needed.

All of the above is just a guessing game but should work. I have not seen a Gold valve or the valve from mikesxs except in pictures. I have not seen the proper instructions from either company.

Tom Graham

gantzcb · Feb 5, 2010

Tom T, thanks for the reminder - you can not use the adjustable preload caps. I had to buy the shorter caps from Mike's. Even with the new caps, there is significant pre-load.

gantzcb · Feb 5, 2010

One more, I added the Progressive springs.

inxs · Feb 5, 2010

650Skull · Feb 5, 2010

gantzcb, I was addressing the question that CalAl asked, i had never heard of different dampers in the 35mm forks and a photo helps to identify things. I should have made myself clear who i was talking to :doh:

...........I have put emulators, from mikes, in my forks and drilled the holes freehand with no problems. important to makes sure all the burs are removed, i used a small round file

gantzcb · Feb 5, 2010

AH HA. i did not correctly read CALAL's first post. my bad. on the early's i added a set of holes the same size a stock and added a hoe at the top the same size as stock. Then i make all the holes in the top valve the same size. feels better bouncing the bike, but I have not rode it.

inxs · May 19, 2010

- race tech emulator fitting requirements for models not listed

CalAl · May 19, 2010

pictures here - problem solved, thanks http://xs650forum.proboards.com/index.cgi?board=Suspension&action=display&thread=1588

willy · Jun 8, 2017

Travis said:
Maybe you'll need to get the later damper rods? Or maybe someone swapped out the damper rods in your forks for older style ones? Anyone know if you can swap them?

CalAl, pictures would be helpful.

What do the damper rods look like in a 79? i would like to know before i buy my dampers from Mikes.

willy · Jun 11, 2017

Travis said:
Maybe you'll need to get the later damper rods? Or maybe someone swapped out the damper rods in your forks for older style ones? Anyone know if you can swap them?

CalAl, pictures would be helpful.

can you tell me if the small spring under the damper comes with the kit?

grizld1 · Jun 11, 2017

Damper rods in the 79 have the late recessed 12-point heads; a 17 mm. hex drive fits them. Go to the hardware store, buy a coupling nut that will fit a 17 mm. socket, and you'll have the tool you need. No, kits don't furnish top-out springs; they should be present in your 79 forks and there's no need to replace them. If you want the performance you're paying for with emulator valves, use them with straight rate springs selected for weight of bike and rider.

willy · Jun 11, 2017

grizld1 said:
Damper rods in the 79 have the late recessed 12-point heads; a 17 mm. hex drive fits them. Go to the hardware store, buy a coupling nut that will fit a 17 mm. socket, and you'll have the tool you need. No, kits don't furnish top-out springs; they should be present in your 79 forks and there's no need to replace them. If you want the performance you're paying for with emulator valves, use them with straight rate springs selected for weight of bike and rider.

Thanks for that, your a star. the reason i asked was because i dont have top out springs in my 79 xs, guess i will have to find some some where

fitting adjustable fork valves?

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