Questions on tuning and plugs chops

81 pod filters, open pipes. 140 mains stock pilots at 42.5. mix screws at 3 out
Took it for its first ride today. Starts up on the first kick, new plugs, fuel line, fuel filter.

Comes off idle pretty smooth- idle is pretty smooth too.
seems when I get to about 1/2 or maybe a little past the rpms seem to go up but not the speed or power of the bike- starts to vibrate a lot too. No tach or speedo on it so couldnt tell ya any of that unfortunately.

So my first question is the 1/4 throttle is the mix screws, 1/4-3/4 is the main and after that is the needle setting? correct me since i feel im wrong.

Second question is what is causing the issue i posted above? I know these bikes vibrate pretty bad but it almost feels like my hands are shake right off in higher rpms.

Third it seems i have to shift pretty early. In that I mean in first I shift pretty quickly to second once i get going. pretty normal i think. but once in 2nd i might be going like 20 have to shift to third up to 30 maybe shift to 4th up to 40 and i was probably going about 50 maybe in 5th.

Now i was wondering should I sync then tune mix screws then do plug chops once the previous is set or ?

If the rpm's are going up but not increasing in speed, then the clutch may be slipping. Check the adjustment at the left engine side and make sure you have some free-play at the lever. Don't use automotive "energy conserving oil"...............too slippery.

Vibration.................check that all engine mount bolts are tight. Do you have the top engine mount? You could lower the number of teeth on the rear sprocket for less engine rpm.

Yes, you should do a sync with a manometer (look under "Tech", Homemade tools).

"Dead Cylinder" method is what I like to use to adjust the mixture screws. Get the rpm down very low, almost to a stall................that will allow you to tune for highest rpm.

already sync'd them just wasnt sure whether to do it before or after setting mix screws. guessing plug chops after i do those two.

What lever am i checking for the clutch? the shift lever? Also you said something about oil. is there separate oil for the clutch or something im not aware of?

Also is there an easier way to find the highest idle on each carb? This is my 4th bike and ive never gotten the ear for hearing changes. Would I see them at all on a tach?

When I say "free play" that means at the clutch lever.

Clutch/engine/ tranny...............its all the same oil.

With "Dead Cylinder" and rpm down around 300 or 400, you can't see any change on a Tach.................its too small to see. When I do mine I can clearly hear the rpm change as I adjust the mixture screw..............very easy.

The idle mix screws effect idle mix the most. As you rool the throttle open the idle bypass orifices come into play. By the time you reach 1/4 throttle you are pretty much on the needle. This takes you up to about the 3/4 throttle range where the needle has lifted up far enough so the main jet takes over.
Have you read the carb guide? It explains how to test for proper jetting and other settings.
www.amckayltd.com/carbguide.pdf
Leo

retired gentleman i must have missed something. I thought the dead cylinder method was to sync the carbs? Are you saying to use it to tune the mix screws too?

Leo yes ive read it multiple times must have forgotten that was in there, Ill take another look

thanks guys im almost done with this thing!

Sync, then set mix screws, then check sync again. Setting the mix screws may change the idle speed on one cylinder or the other which would throw the sync off a little bit.

borjawil;

"Dead Cylinder" is a method to adjust the air/fuel mixture for one cylinder; it has nothing to do with synchronizing carbs.

Use a manometer to sync the 2 carbs.

However, as 5twins says, there could be some inter-action, so going back and forth between the two, may be the wise thing to do.

oh i see! Sounds much easier than with both running. For dead cylinder tuning i get another plug and have it touch the engine head so i dont ruin the electronic ignition right? then lower the rpms as low as i can and adjust screw looking for highest idle, turning the idle screw back down to keep idle low. Start with left then move to right?

Any tips on tuning with a 4 cylinder?

This is a pic of the spark plug I use when I "dead cylinder".

gotcha, cool idea, i figured I'd just tape the plug wire to hold the plug on there.

On the earlier unlinked carbs the dead cylinder method was used to sync the carbs.
As when you do the air mix screws, un plug one plug wire, or whatever method to kill one cylinder. On the cylinder still running you slowly back off the idle screw til the engine stalls.
Now re hook the dead cylinder and make the other cylinder dead.
Now with the engine idling back out the idle screw til the wengine quits. Now both cylinders have the carbs idling the same. When you rehook both cylinders to run the idle will be too high. Back off both idle screws the same amount to get an idle speed between 1200 and 1500 rpm. Now both cylinders are pulling the same. Tocomplete the sync you need to adjust the throttle cables to pull both throttle plates open at the same time.
The later linked carbs using the Manometer method works better because the carbs or holders have a place to hook the hoses to.
On any year carb set syncing is very important. The method used is up to you.
Leo