Can you drill a hole on the opposite side of the throat, directly in line with the stuck piece. Use a long home made punch to knock it back out the way it came in. JB weld the drilled hole
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I NEED NITRIC ACID ?
- Thread starter mrtwowheel
- Start date
Filling fluid there heating with a soldering iron from that side ?
Different thermal expansion brass aluminum
small pin tapping / pushing ?
I like that idea. I'll file that one away in the ol' grey matter.
ckahleer
XS650 Addict
If not too tight a 90 deg dental pick tool may work. If it is in really tight, drill a small hole on opposite side of carburetor and punch it straight out, then patch hole.
I've tried sewing machine needles, they're humungous compared to this hole. I cut them shorter than the ID of the throat and reduced the tip size of the needles with a diamond hone, even blunted the tip. Lined these up horizontally in the throat with the hole and tried to pry them towards the hole using the throat ID to lever on, they just bent and broke. I'm going to see if I can do the same thing with a small punch cut to size and tip reduced using a sewing needle as a gauge for the hole size.
Edit......Haven't done any damage yet.
Edit......Haven't done any damage yet.
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Just want to add here that I personally have never turned a pilot screw clockwise into this carb body ever. I just removed the pilot screw to do the cleaning and noticed that the pilot screw was not "all there".
A gggGary challange;
Bet I could get it out.
Bet I could get it out.
I don’t buy that being a viable solution either. But who knows, I’ve been wrong before…
You saved mine once when I thought I'd done hamfisted them proper!
It's kind of an advantage that the jet tip is recessed in the hole a bit. the hole acts to locate the tip of your extraction pin. I'd have a short pin of the appropriate OD drilled into the end of a lever then be pushing/levering up to send that tip back out the way it went in.
Devise a way to vibrate the lever as you push up...............
Devise a way to vibrate the lever as you push up...............
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I remember, that was a fun one.
https://www.xs650.com/threads/bs34-idle-mix-screw-issue-ideas-wanted.54337/
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Nope, that was another hamfisted mechanic like me. Mine were BS38's. You are a special kind of talented fella though Gary!
https://www.xs650.com/threads/75-pilot-jet-removal-issue.56602/
https://www.xs650.com/threads/75-pilot-jet-removal-issue.56602/
Used to use a product called Tap Out to remove broken taps from aluminum and stainless steel parts. Basically nitric Acid solution.
Haven't been able to find it lately. Another similar product, also illusive, called Tap-X Broken Tap Remover
Success will depend on actual metal alloy of carb body. Warnings on product is not to use on Zinc, Brass, any carbon based steels if you don't want to do damage to the base metal.
Haven't been able to find it lately. Another similar product, also illusive, called Tap-X Broken Tap Remover
Success will depend on actual metal alloy of carb body. Warnings on product is not to use on Zinc, Brass, any carbon based steels if you don't want to do damage to the base metal.
Options......................build a special punch, devise a way to pry
drill an access hole, build a special punch,
fix the access hole
play with burning acid and toxic fumes
Gotta say........burning acid and explosive toxic fumes sounds like a lot more fun
drill an access hole, build a special punch,
fix the access hole
play with burning acid and toxic fumes
Gotta say........burning acid and explosive toxic fumes sounds like a lot more fun
Last summer I had a slide sitting hard
If I had used force it ( carburetor ) would have been scrap today
If it is conical sitting with press fit and some varnish ( it is broken because of sitting hard )
So heat or chemicals is in my view better than drill or use force. Without it
So why not test the Acid ( sounds wrong ) on some other part first and then here
Probably wont destroy it as force can do.
If I had used force it ( carburetor ) would have been scrap today
If it is conical sitting with press fit and some varnish ( it is broken because of sitting hard )
So heat or chemicals is in my view better than drill or use force. Without it
So why not test the Acid ( sounds wrong ) on some other part first and then here
Probably wont destroy it as force can do.
I just bought ten 1oz. bottles of JSP 67% nitric acid for $16.31 plus sales tax, free shipping, walmart.com. Expect delivery April 5, next Friday. Pictures to come. Pretty cool if it works, huh?
I'd try it on an odd bit of the outside of the carb first and have a box of baking soda handy.
How does a CB run on 3 pilots and 4 mains? 
I have three '81 CB750C's. This will be an extra bank of 4 carbs that will be put together with spare parts that I have. This clogged carb body came to me on a non-runner that I never tried to start until I refurbed the carbs. Easy to find this broken pilot screw while cleaning that bank of carbs. I had another carb body to substitute then. You know, the Sherlock Holmes thing. PO blamed his problems on the torsion choke spring, spring was fine, carbs were not aligned with each other causing the shafts to bind.How does a CB run on 3 pilots and 4 mains?
Edit.......So, those were the two main reasons that that bike had been sitting since 1986, the broken pilot screw and the misaligned carbs. Only 5 years use on that bike and stored pretty decent.
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