Need my new wiring diagram reviewed.

poorman9

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Hey guys, I'm about to do a full rewire on my 81 XS650H, this being my first wiring job (an first bike build) I thought I'd have all you geniuses check it over.

XS650_81_DIAGRAM_KICKONLY.png



PDF link to download if you'd like to see it bigger.

Any changes I should make? Anything that might explode if I hook it up this way?
One specific question, is there a way to make my speedo light and my taillight come on only when I've got my headlight on (to either high or low)? I couldn't figure it out.

A few notes: As you can see it's kick only. Boyer ignition. I got the handelbar switch off an old kawasaki trail boss, so it's probably quite a bit different from the stock XS's. I've planning on using this fuse box and this ignition switch.

I'm wiring it all with between 14 - 18ga wire, the wire is made by a company called Ancor Marine, it's made for boats, on the site "Ancor wire is rated for oily and wet environments because its jacket is impervious to those conditions...Each strand of Ancor wire has a tin coating for extra corrosion resistance...Ancor wire is Type 3 stranded, meaning that it has 5–10 times more copper strands than Type 2 wire, so it's more flexible and fatigue-resistant."
Anyway, sounds pretty good to me, and it's only cost me $30 for all the wire I needed.
You can get the wire by the foot, it like 10 different colors here.

BTW, If this looks familiar it's because I've adapted this from Limey's 1980 simplified wiring diagram, you can download his original here.

Thanks for the ongoing help and support.
 

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I would move the brown wire to the brushes over to the brown wire to the regulator, this way the brushes are protected by the same fuse as the regulator.
I would put the turn signals and brake lights on one fuse.
Move the power for the horn to the extra fuse. No sence having a bum horn blowing the fuse that powers the ignition.
You have no grounds for the indicater lights and no power to the neutral light.
To get the indicater and tail lights to light just when the headlight is on can't be done with the headlight switch your using. You need a headlight off/on switch. This switch can feed power to the indicator and tail light and the dimmer switch.
Leo
 
Alright Leo, thanks for the reply. Everything you suggested made sense to me.
How's it look now?
 

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Another question I have is - My main negative ground from the battery when I'm connecting it to the frame, where the best place to make the connection?

The most convient would be the support under my seat that's right next to the battery in the electronics box I'm building. But would be it be better to run that thick wire up to where the top of the engine meets the frame?

Also, does the ignition coil (made by Gill) that comes with the Boyer Blue Box have a right and left side? I mean if I mount it backwards, with the spark plug ends facing toward the engine will I be running the run spark plug wire to the wrong plug?

This is what my talking about btw -
Photo%20on%202011-05-10%20at%2014.17.jpg
 
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I asked the same question with my Boyer ignition and the answer is YES. I believe that if you put it in backwards you will be out by about 10 degrees on the ignition.
 
I asked the same question with my Boyer ignition and the answer is YES. I believe that if you put it in backwards you will be out by about 10 degrees on the ignition.

Thanks for the info, I'll find a way to mount it right side up.

And I'm gonna start wiring here in a couple hours, anybody have any more thoughts on my diagram?
 
Ok the mods to the diagram look good except you added a ground on the neutral light you didn't need. A run down on how the neutral light works. Power after the switch goes to the light bulb, from the light bulb to the neutral switch. The switch grounds the wire from the light when you put the bike in neutral.
Running a ground from the bulb itself bypasses the switch and will keep the light lit all the time.
I'm not well versed in the Boyer ignition, I think the coil has a single primary side and a dual output secondary. The primay is on the left side in your pic. The secondary is on the right.
A dual output coil fires both spark plugs at the same time.
The 80 up stock coils are that way. The coils that work with the Pamco are that way. Coils of this type the primary side is not polarity sensitive. That means the wires can hook to either blade. On the plug wires they can hook to either plug.
The timing should be the same either way.
Leo
 
Hi Poorman9,

Great threads. I was encouraged to get back to my own 81, which needs a new wiring job to get things going. Did you ever finalize your diagram after XSLeo's comments? I have your .pdf (from above) but there is a ground off of the neutral switch.

Also, if I replaced your Boyer with a Pamco, do you think that would change the diagram?

Thanks for making such a clear and well drawn diagram!

Jon
 
Hi Poorman9,

Great threads. I was encouraged to get back to my own 81, which needs a new wiring job to get things going. Did you ever finalize your diagram after XSLeo's comments? I have your .pdf (from above) but there is a ground off of the neutral switch.

Also, if I replaced your Boyer with a Pamco, do you think that would change the diagram?

Thanks for making such a clear and well drawn diagram!

Jon


Thanks man! That second one I posted is basically a final version, I ended up making a few tweeks, but it's pretty dang close to what I actually wired up. I don't really know anything about Pamco systems, but I'm sure there somebody on here who does.

Also that wire I mentioned from Ancor Marine has been great so far, really flexible and strong, I'd suggest it if you're doing a re-wire.
 
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