Welding gas question

[emzdogz]

Today I went to a different welding supply place, because the one I used to go to really irritated me. I'd asked about getting a bottle of Argon mix to replace my pure CO2. At the old place they told me the adapter would be "about $75" and didn't even check - just assumed the price was gonna make me go away so they wouldn't have to get it for me.

Anyhoo, this new and scruffy but GOOD welding supply place I found hooked me up with the adapter for just $16 and also took the time to explain to me how to install the adapter. They also answered a couple other questions for me, whereas the old place just treated me like vermin.

So I come home and hook up the bottle and open it and WHAM the gauge goes WAY up - like this bottle is really nice and full - where the bottles of CO2 I used to get from the other place used to barely budge the gauge.

So what do you think? think the old place may have been selling me bottles that weren't filled right? I bought 2 from them over the last several months. OR, is there some perfectly NORMAL reason the bottle of argon mix would have a lot more pressure in it?

anyway, I am happy to find a new supplier.
Smelled like a bike shop in there, which made me happy, too.

thanks
Em

 

[justin]

Depends on what the bottle is rated for, different gases/mixes all have limiting factors on max pressure. Straight CO2 cylinders have a lower rating than an argon mix.

 

[emzdogz]

ok thanks, so it's normal then.

 

[angus67]

if your mig welding, you should have been using 75%argon,25%co2. (some use a tri mix, but not needed for this)
a while ago you had a thread asking welding questions on why sometimes you get porosity, and sometimes not. if you using straight co2, thats why. I wish we would have known that back then. What reulator do you have? if u just have a single gauge, that is dangerous to not have it regulated. especially with your new pressures. What size bottle? if its about 3ft tall, and a foot around , its a forty. That's 40 cubic feet crammed into that bottle. I dont think you want that going of in your shop. If you have a regulator set at 30#, thats all it will let out if, say, you accidently melt the tubing going from your tank to your machine.
If your new supplier is truly helpfull, take your whole setup down there, and let some one there check it out.
not questioning your abilities, just want you to be safe.

 

[emzdogz]

thanks angus, it is smaller bottle than what you described, but I would like to have a regulator, too.

 

[Sgt Hollywood]

Like Angus said.

Mig welding mild steel, just get a single regulated tank of C25 run around 20+- cfm as a starting point.

 

[rezsst]

i prefer 90/10 just because it will spray tranfer works get for thicker material and runs smooth on thinner gauge with less spatter

 

[emzdogz]

Just went outside and looked - and my one gauge is a regulator.
The mix I got is, I believe a 3 gas mix - it is what they recommended when I described my welder and the types of material I'm welding. (black bottle) But it might be just argon-CO2 mix. Not sure.
Sure wish I could try it out today, but we're having MASSIVE wind-gusts.

 

[rezsst]

tri mix is better but there is tri mix for stainless too. i'm sure your fine just try it. try mix will go from short arc to spray easier. i recommend a 200 amp min machine one that will plug into 220v anything less is junk

 

[Sgt Hollywood]

i recommend a 200 amp min machine one that will plug into 220v anything less is junk

Not wanting to create an flaming debate, but broad sweeping statements do not assist anyone in educating themselves of the topic.

There is a time, place and application for all welders. I am certain that many people do just fine and have more than adequate capacity with smaller 110/120v machines, Hobart Handlers, Millermatics etc etc.

I use a Miller 251 but there are situations, location, and materials that warrant no more than the Hobart Handler @110v to achieve successful welds.

 

[rezsst]

that 251 will do it all, just turn it down. i've used a hobart handler 175 its a good machine on 220v and bad on 110v. and i'm certain there is alot of people using 110v machines that arent welding on bikes

 

[rezsst]

that 251 will do it all. a 110v from harbor freight in the wrong hands on a bike frame crazy. fyi i welded rioc tram lincoln mc6 innersheild.060 wire 90/10 gas

 

[Sgt Hollywood]

a 110v from harbor freight in the wrong hands on a bike frame crazy.

Oh I agree, and would typically steer pretty much everyone away from these machines, you will definitely get what you pay for here.

 

[emzdogz]

mine is a Lincoln "Weld-Pak 100" with gas kit, that I got from my Dad. Just looking to add some mounting tabs - not like weld on a hardtail or rake a neck with it (I leave that to the pros).
I also have a cheapo 220 stick welder that he gave me too...looks like an evil little beast. Scared to try that one!

 

[landerson]

emzdogz,

Angus67 is right. Be safe first with your compressed gas bottles. If you can get a flowmeter for your gas flow and another for bottle pressure that would be best, and safest. I've brought home plenty of mixed and straight bottled gas from the supplier and the pressure varies more than you'd expect. Don't trust anyone filing those things. Also, when you open the tank valve on a fresh bottle, be sure the regulator valve is wide open (meaning not set to a specific flow rate). If you open a fresh bottle and it hasn't been filled properly the last thing you want is a regulator valve projectile through the chest (stand to the side of the bottle). We use 90/10 at our place for carbon steel MIG. Wind gusts = poor shielding = porosity = nasty welds = fail.

 

[emzdogz]

thanks landerson, I appreciate the input very much.
Same to everyone who's chimed in. thanks!
(very gusty wind here the last few days, so no welding for now)