4stroke
4stroke
Does anyone no of other years and model regulator rectifiers that will work on a xs650's
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regulator rectifier
- Thread starter 4stroke
- Start date
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- Tags
- electrical
The 70-79 interchange, the 80 ups interchange. If you mean to look in a scrap yard for one then find one from a bike that uses a feild excited alternator. A PMA type alternator uses a different reg/rec and won't work.
If you do a bit of research you will find info about replacing the stock reg/recs with parts from cars and Radio Shack.
I did such a mod on my 75, works great.
Leo
If you do a bit of research you will find info about replacing the stock reg/recs with parts from cars and Radio Shack.
I did such a mod on my 75, works great.
Leo
For your 1975, you could use the same regulator that I use............VR-115. The VR-115 was used by American Motors 1971 to 1974 Ambassador/Javelin/Hornet/Gremlin. Also Jeeps 1972 to 1975. I bought mine for $9.99 plus $8.00 shipping in 2008. Shop around on places such as ebay.
I made up my own rectifier by using 2 bridge rectifiers and an old heat sink I had on hand. You can purchase bridge rectifiers from electronics suppliers.
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YL82
Perpetual Restorationist
Hi, retiredgentleman.
I plan on following your advice on the regulator and rectifier. As far as the VR-115 regulator, is the wiring harness an exact match to easily install on our our 650's or are any mods necessary?
Thanks!
I plan on following your advice on the regulator and rectifier. As far as the VR-115 regulator, is the wiring harness an exact match to easily install on our our 650's or are any mods necessary?
Thanks!
Standard VR-115, were used on Jeeps 72 to 75, and American Motors 71 to 74. They come with 4 wires,orange,yellow,green and black. You cut the 4 pin connector off and re-wire it to a 3 pin connector.
Regulator....................... XS650 harness
orange & yellow.................brown (load side of ignition switch)
green...............................green (left outer brush)
black................................common black wire in harness or bare metal on frame.
It's that simple!
YL82
Perpetual Restorationist
I've ordered a Standard VR-115 Regulator, so I can part with my stock one. Installation of the VR-115 appears very straightforward. Thanks for your feedback on that, retiredgentleman.
As you can see, my Rectifier (just found it today) looks like crap, so I'll be replacing that with a new bridge rectifier. I'm not inclined to fabricate one at this time, so I'm currently looking at what MikesXS offers.
Apparently, one can either buy a rectifier/regulator unit or a separate rectifier and regulator. Since I've got a VR-115 on the way, I obviously am just looking for a Rectifier. I'm a little perplexed at the comment on MikesXS rectifier (24-2085) that states that wiring in connector plug must be rearranged.
Any recommendations for other off-the-shelf Rectifiers that have convenient stock harness (5-pin/blade) compatibility?
As you can see, my Rectifier (just found it today) looks like crap, so I'll be replacing that with a new bridge rectifier. I'm not inclined to fabricate one at this time, so I'm currently looking at what MikesXS offers.
Apparently, one can either buy a rectifier/regulator unit or a separate rectifier and regulator. Since I've got a VR-115 on the way, I obviously am just looking for a Rectifier. I'm a little perplexed at the comment on MikesXS rectifier (24-2085) that states that wiring in connector plug must be rearranged.
Any recommendations for other off-the-shelf Rectifiers that have convenient stock harness (5-pin/blade) compatibility?
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I don't know of any. I bought a couple of 3 phase bridge rectifiers off Ebay. Like $4 each. 35 amp 1000 volt. More than enough power handling ability.
You can cut the wires off your old rectifier and regulator to use them to hook up the new ones.
Leo
You can cut the wires off your old rectifier and regulator to use them to hook up the new ones.
Leo
YL82
Perpetual Restorationist
Thanks kindly, Leo. The specs you provided will help me with my search. I had wondered about using old wiring connectors, so thanks for that advice too.
Don't waste your money on that Mikesxs rectifier. $54.00 is a complete rip off!
The terminals on Mikesxs rectifier do not line up with what is on your stock harness. It means you would have to change the wiring on your stock harness connector.
3 phase rectifiers have become very inexpensive. Here's an example:
http://www.ebay.com/itm/35-AMP-3-TH...00182097335?hash=item5d2cb635b7#ht_1180wt_805
Total cost about $12.00. Just add a piece of metal or aluminum for a heat sink. You must use a heat sink. You could use your old 6 pin connector if its in good condition, or buy a new 6 pin connector (only 5 pins are wired).
Edit: 35 amp was just an example; actually the 25 amp size is all that is needed for these bikes.
The terminals on Mikesxs rectifier do not line up with what is on your stock harness. It means you would have to change the wiring on your stock harness connector.
3 phase rectifiers have become very inexpensive. Here's an example:
http://www.ebay.com/itm/35-AMP-3-TH...00182097335?hash=item5d2cb635b7#ht_1180wt_805
Total cost about $12.00. Just add a piece of metal or aluminum for a heat sink. You must use a heat sink. You could use your old 6 pin connector if its in good condition, or buy a new 6 pin connector (only 5 pins are wired).
Edit: 35 amp was just an example; actually the 25 amp size is all that is needed for these bikes.
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YL82
Perpetual Restorationist
Awesome!
Would I attach the heatsink (piece o' metal) to the underside of the rectifier and then attach with a bolt (through hole in rectifier center) under the battery box so its suspended like the stock one? Or can the heat sink be secured right up against the battery box? Seems like the fin-type aluminum heat sinks wouldn't lend themselves to this.
Perhaps the simpler question is, how exactly did you mount your home-made rectifier?
Thank you.
Would I attach the heatsink (piece o' metal) to the underside of the rectifier and then attach with a bolt (through hole in rectifier center) under the battery box so its suspended like the stock one? Or can the heat sink be secured right up against the battery box? Seems like the fin-type aluminum heat sinks wouldn't lend themselves to this.
Perhaps the simpler question is, how exactly did you mount your home-made rectifier?
Thank you.
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YamaLovin76;
My rectifier is mounted directly under the battery box, the same location as the stock rectifier was mounted. Each bridge rectifier was secured, with one small bolt, through its centre. I then used one long bolt, through the heat sink centre, and bolted the long bolt to the bottom of the battery box. Its mounted just as shown in my picture, with the heat sink fins pointed up, and the terminals pointed down.
Rectifier has been used for about 5 years now, and still working perfectly.
My rectifier is mounted directly under the battery box, the same location as the stock rectifier was mounted. Each bridge rectifier was secured, with one small bolt, through its centre. I then used one long bolt, through the heat sink centre, and bolted the long bolt to the bottom of the battery box. Its mounted just as shown in my picture, with the heat sink fins pointed up, and the terminals pointed down.
Rectifier has been used for about 5 years now, and still working perfectly.
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5twins................with the ebay one, you only need 1 because it's a 3 phase rectifier, designed to work with any 3 phase alternator, such as the one on our bikes.
The reason I used 2 bridge rectifiers, is because each rectifier is only a single phase rectifier.
6 diodes are needed to rectify 3 phase AC power. Bridge rectifiers only have 4 diodes, so you need 2 of them. 3 phase rectifiers already have the 6 diodes.
Pic of my bridge rectifier
Here is Pamcopetes article on doing the Reg/Rect conversion
Here is Pamcopetes article on doing the Reg/Rect conversion
YL82
Perpetual Restorationist
I will likely use the wiring/3-pin connector from my regulator when I get my VR-115. Not sure that I want to use the connector and wiring from my rectifier, but will if I don't have a better choice. I've been looking on the internet for quite a while for replacement connectors.
Will Yamaha-type 6-pin and 3-pin connectors (male) be difficult to find on the internet if I wish to replace connectors with new?
Is there a good internet source for replacement large, flate spade-type connectors, both male and female that are compatible with these Yamaha connectors?
Thanks!
Will Yamaha-type 6-pin and 3-pin connectors (male) be difficult to find on the internet if I wish to replace connectors with new?
Is there a good internet source for replacement large, flate spade-type connectors, both male and female that are compatible with these Yamaha connectors?
Thanks!
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any motor vehicle parts store should have them, or Check this link.
YL82
Perpetual Restorationist
Thank you, 650Skull!
jd750ace
Front Toward Enemy
I used Mike's connectors. He has a good selection and they are made to plug into your stock connectors.
Leo
Leo
Same as Leo, I used new connectors from Mikesxs.com. They work quite well.
A word to avoid confusion when making up regulators. My recommendations for using the VR-115 regulator are directed only at 1970 to 1979 stock alternators and stock wiring harnesses. This method uses one brush grounded to the stator frame. Do not try to use the method that is in Pamcopete's procedure.
Pamcopete's method is only when using the 1980 to 1983 regulator design (no brushes grounded) and converting your 70 to 79 bike to work with that design.
A word to avoid confusion when making up regulators. My recommendations for using the VR-115 regulator are directed only at 1970 to 1979 stock alternators and stock wiring harnesses. This method uses one brush grounded to the stator frame. Do not try to use the method that is in Pamcopete's procedure.
Pamcopete's method is only when using the 1980 to 1983 regulator design (no brushes grounded) and converting your 70 to 79 bike to work with that design.
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