Luthor's Build

Lex . . .

Yes, very very dirty underneath. The engine is still in the bike. My "build" will be here and there while the bike still runs. Have to, until I get my 1st gen Toyota 4x4 on the road again.

Brian . . .

Love the "heat the engine" first ploy. I look forward to trying that. Or I'll air ratchet the buggars off. The one on the sump was so stripped by the PO that I couldn't resist grinding the hex back into it, albeit a mm or two smaller.

Clutch adjust nut . . .

I got mine loose with the air ratchet. I removed it and held in the bench vise first though. Maybe overkill, but it worked.
 
Just a quick update. I ordered the lithium batteries. Here's the one that will be used for this build:

And I know it's not related to XS650.com, but I also ordered a battery for a build I had done that had been sitting in a shop for a year now. Here's the last pic of the bike when it was getting towed to the shop: (1982 Yamaha XV750J Virago Cafe Racer)

The pipes were finally ceramic coated flat black as well:

Here they are installed, but not torqued. Again, these pipes are temporary so the engine can get tuned, etc. Further down the road the pipes will more likely be custom to follow the curves of the frame.

Now as for the starter... The screws I found were 10MM long. They HAVE to be 6MM long. One option would be to send them to the shop and have them shorten the length, but the finish on the screws is not SS, so while looking at supplies for the wiring harness on McMaster-Carr I found them on SS, but still, 10MM. I went ahead an ordered those, along with a SHITLOAD of electrical supplies. Once I get that order in, I'll proceed to do a temporary wiring harness while the screws get shortened at the machine shop.
 
Tracer: 1st Gen Toyota 4x4... Man I'd love one of those.

Thread Jack: Here's mine, bought it new. 1979 Limited edition. One of the first made. Turned 35 this year.

794X4.jpg

toyinterior003.jpg
 
The screws that I purchased from McMaster-Carr were a perfect fit. In the picture below you can see the OEM screws (whatever was left of them after being drilled out by the machine shop), the ones I had purchased at a hardware store that were too long with the wrong finish, and the ones to the right are the ones from McMaster-Carr in SS.

Here is one installed:

And the starter gets put together:


And here you can see the starter finished along with the SS crews and the OEM screws that I was lucky enough to find on eBay. The price of each screw was $16. Ouch. Oh well.

I ordered about $150 worth of good quality wires, terminals, in-line fuse holders, switches (temporary), heat shrink, and sleeves, from McMaster-Carr so I can start working on a temporary wiring harness to start the engine. And I ordered another in-line fuse holder with a 7.5 Amp fuse for the ignition after seeing a few wiring diagrams here.

Since I had sold my blasting cabinet along with a bunch of other tools, I had the place where everything gets powder coated do a quick blast on the hydraulic clutch conversion that way the finish is similar to the one on the engine. The cap will be ready today in flat black so I'll post a picture when it's installed.
 
SolidLex....Love the quality of your build...I wish I had your patience.
McMasters is the best, not the cheapest by any means, but you order and the parts are at your door the next day. I have purchased a ton of metric bolts, nuts and just about anything you can think of. The bolts are almost exactly the same as what came on the bike.
 
Thank you sir! They're my To-Go site right now. I ordered some red heat shrink but it's almost pink. Still if you use the sleeves for wires, you can still see the color of the wire used slightly so I stuck with the black heat shrink tubing.:thumbsup:

SolidLex....Love the quality of your build...I wish I had your patience.
McMasters is the best, not the cheapest by any means, but you order and the parts are at your door the next day. I have purchased a ton of metric bolts, nuts and just about anything you can think of. The bolts are almost exactly the same as what came on the bike.
 
So I started working on a temporary wiring harness following a few wiring diagrams I've found on this site. I have everything hooked up, EXCEPT the starter solenoid I purchased from MikesXS:

http://www.mikesxs.net/product/24-6526.html

I know on the big screws, 1 goes to the starter, and the other one goes to the battery (or + wire), however, I have no idea how to connect the other 2 wires. I purchased a momentary switch from McMaster-Carr "7343K763". Any insight would greatly be appreciated!!!
 
The other two wires power your solenoid.

Typically the one with out the cover, bare male end, would be positive power into the solenoid. So find the wire from the starter switch on the handlebar and feed the 12v from that to this terminal.

The female wire should be the ground wire, so run from it to ground and away you go.

The two wires will work either way actually because you are just powering the magnet inside.

Power from the starter switch would normally be a 12v covered terminal so it does not short out if accidentally touch ground, thus the reason the bare male terminal on the solenoid should be positive power in.
 
I'm guessing + would go into this switch on one terminal, then from the other terminal to the solenoid, and the other terminal on the solenoid would go to ground. Correct?
 
Still messing around with terminals, heat shrink, sleeves, etc. I really dig the quality of the McMaster-Carr supplies.

Not digging the "red" heat shrink so since you can still see the color of the cables, I decided to stick to the black heat shrink.

Still need a spark plug wire crimping tool but this is how it's looking. Should be getting some oil soon...

And I need more zip ties. LOL
 
On your solenoid the yellow/red is the 12v + feed into the solenoid and the green goes to ground.

Wrong switch for this application, you wand a push button type switch.

That type will lead to having the starter turning over too long when you accidentally forget to switch it back off.

Not very safe.

Push button is the only way to go.

That type of switch is best used for things like lights.
 
Digging the build and McMaster rocks. I order almost all of my supplies through them. When I built my harness, I didn't want anything but black showing so it would be easier to hide. So since I was using the same terminals for everything what I did was use a small paint pen to mark the heat shrink. That way I know where everything goes and I don't have red or other color heat shrink showing everywhere. Your harness looks nice and it looks like you used the same expandable mesh I used to cover everything.
 
Thank you Brian for the input. That switch springs back to the off position as soon as you let go of the lever. I have another one (same look) that stays on the on position which I'm using for the kill switch on the temporary wiring harness. Further down the road all the switches will be from Posh Factory and most, if not all, the terminals will be weatherpacks. :thumbsup:

On your solenoid the yellow/red is the 12v + feed into the solenoid and the green goes to ground.

Wrong switch for this application, you wand a push button type switch.

That type will lead to having the starter turning over too long when you accidentally forget to switch it back off.

Not very safe.

Push button is the only way to go.

That type of switch is best used for things like lights.
 
Hmm... That's actually a good Idea Freaky Monkey. I used the 3mm sleeves, and on some cases went with the 6mm just to see how it looked. I think I used the 6mm as well on the wires coming from the ignition. That still had some sleeve of some sort, on a grey color, but you can't even see the grey after the sleeve went on. I left the original length on the alternator and reg/rect for warranty purposes as HHB specifies. By the time I continue with the build and routing wires through the frame, I'll be using weatherpacks for most connections.

Digging the build and McMaster rocks. I order almost all of my supplies through them. When I built my harness, I didn't want anything but black showing so it would be easier to hide. So since I was using the same terminals for everything what I did was use a small paint pen to mark the heat shrink. That way I know where everything goes and I don't have red or other color heat shrink showing everywhere. Your harness looks nice and it looks like you used the same expandable mesh I used to cover everything.
 
Sucks that none of the auto parts stores around me have the crimping tool for the spark plug wires. Not even Harbor Freight. Had no choice but to order one from Summit Racing and pay $15 for 2-day shipping. Oh well. I'll need it further down the road anyway since the spark plug wires will be custom length as well.
 
Thanks "Kingpaul". Those '82 Viragos have a shitty starter/flywheel system. I had to buy a new starter, a few new gears, and have some service done on the flywheel. I dropped it off @ the shop March last year, before I went on vacation, hoping to have it ready by Summer last year but the mechanic that was working on it, quit/moved, never told anything to anyone so it sat in the shop for a long-ass time. When the shop owner contacted me and I explained to him what happened he was disappointed, and sorry. The guy that had the flywheel fell off the face of the planet. He didn't answer his phone, e-mails, etc. I thought to myself I lost the flywheel, and the $. He did resurrect not too long ago, and sent me the flywheel. I dropped the flywheel off @ the shop a few weeks ago. Once they replace it, and hoping that it engages (it would just spin & spin), and starts, I'll put the handlebar mirrors on, replace the battery, detail it, and sell it. :(

that virago cafe is beautiful
 
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