Can you identidy this drum brake?

Genjuroq

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Hi, I'm trying to finish up a chopper project and need some help identifying the front brake setup.



Any help would be appreciated.

Thanks,
Gen
 
Hi Gen and welcome,
well, it's a single leading shoe drum brake in a springer front end.
Needs an operating cable and a barrel nipple to work.
Apart from that, what exactly do you need to know about it?
Honestly, we like to help out when we can but more details, please?
 
I can't place it. But, with the embossed 'brake wear' marking, makes me think late '60s - early '70s.

It's mounted backwards, that particular brake backing plate should be on the left side.
If kept on the right side, and if the brake cam is non-symetrical, it would need to be rotated 180° to prevent trailing shoe gouging.

And, the brake stay is dangerously close to being a straight line between axle and stay mount bolt.
The brake stay endpoints, and the axle center, should form close to a 90° angle.

Rocker plates normally fit outside of the fork legs. Is that a special setup?
 
Hi Gen and welcome,
well, it's a single leading shoe drum brake in a springer front end.
Needs an operating cable and a barrel nipple to work.
Apart from that, what exactly do you need to know about it?
Honestly, we like to help out when we can but more details, please?

I'd just like to know what I'm working with. It's a project I got a hold of most of the way through. I'l take it apart tomorrow and see if there are any markings that can get me more details .

I can't place it. But, with the embossed 'brake wear' marking, makes me think late '60s - early '70s.

It's mounted backwards, that particular brake backing plate should be on the left side.
If kept on the right side, and if the brake cam is non-symetrical, it would need to be rotated 180° to prevent trailing shoe gouging.

And, the brake stay is dangerously close to being a straight line between axle and stay mount bolt.
The brake stay endpoints, and the axle center, should form close to a 90° angle.

Rocker plates normally fit outside of the fork legs. Is that a special setup?

Don't know any details about the setup which is why I came here. Best I can do for the moment is provide more pictures.

 
take the drum off, and look at the shoes. should be a manu marking on it. As far as the placement of the rockers, you can see were they were supposed to go on the inside of the forks, but were put on the outside to accommodate the width of that drum.
 
Hi Gen,
dunno about the drum being in backwards because I'd expect the brakeplate flange to be extended forwards as it's shown.
But it looks to me as if the brakeplate has been mounted about 75º counter-clockwise from where it was on it's original bike.
the block on the brakeplate that shows behind the fork's twisty stay was meant to mate with an extension cast onto the original telefork's slider to be the brake's torque stay.
The faked-up torque stay presently fitted, as 2many sez, ain't gonna work right.
I'd suggest you tear it right down to see the details of what you got.
 
That should be the wheel from a Suzuki TS250 or TS400.

Early-model fork outer tubes were steel & had a lug that located the brake panel as shown in your second pic.
Later-model fork outer tubes were cast & used a stay to locate the brake panel as shown in your first pic.
On some bikes, when Suzuki updated the brake panel, they added the stay attachment and kept slot for the lug.

Its probably from a TS250 or TS400 from around 1975 because of the 150.7 mm max diameter & the presence of both brake setups.

The brake isn’t particularly powerful by braking standards of the time.
Suzuki used 2LS front brakes on all but the really small street bikes.
 
Hi Gen,
now that the mystery hub is identified all it needs is a good cleanup to be ready for a cable and lever, eh?
There's one thing though, WTF is that ugly rusted thing threaded into the brake plate next to the brake cable mount?
And you must be aware, that ain't much of a brake, good for persuading the cops that the bike has "two independent braking systems" but not for much else.
BTW, is the bike being worked on for a customer or is it your own?
The whole machine would be improved by a serious de-rusting program and nicer fasteners all round but that takes time and money that a customer wouldn't necessarily be willing to pay for.
 
jabcb - thanks for the info, just what I needed

fredintoon - This is a fun project for me. I picked up a pair of XS's while recovering from hip surgery. My plan is to finish this one up as cheaply as possible with as much of the original parts I got with it. I'll clean up or replace a lot of the bolts, the rust on the fender is probably going to stay, that tank I'm just going to clear coat over because its just too fun to get rid of. Other than that I just want to finish it and enjoy riding it.

 
Hi Gen,
get well soon, eh? Gotta love that tank art. And clearcoat over rust on the fender is OK for the rat-rod look too.
By all means enjoy the ride but fer Chrissake ride it carefully.
Stretched-front choppers with a "just there to make it legal" front brake don't handle too well.
Whatcha got planned for a seat?
 
I see that it's set up with both styles of brake stay. One is the extended bolt fitting into the notch on the brake plate. The other is the stay from the brake plate to the rocker.
The way it is now if the extended bolt fail the stay from the plate to rocker won't keep the brake plate from turning. As twomany mentioned it's too straight. As the wheel tuns the brake plate should pull on that stay, not push. Making it longer to put more of a 90 degree angle will help but making longer it needs to be stronger. The flat stock will bend when pushed on. When pulled on it won't.
I would flip the wheel around so the brake is on the left side. Use both brake stay methods but have the stay run from the brake plate to the rear leg of the springer.
Leo
 
Didn't think of mentioning that.
The Suzuki bikes have the brake panel on the left.
So, as XSLeo mentioned, the brake would pull on the stay.

Also, you’ll have to put the brake panel on the left if you want to use a cable-driven speedo.
 
Hi Gen,
like the Suzi experts say, it's a Suzuki wheel that's been mounted wrong way round.
OK then, it'll work like that except if you hook up a Suzi speedo to the drive it'll run backwards.
So if you sort out that secondary torque stay (or don't bother or just toss it, the torque block is all it really needs) and are happy with an electronic speedo or not running one, she's OK as is.
Your photos show a tach cable on the engine.
Centermount the tach and paint lines on it's glass for the appropriate revs at 30 & 60 mph and you don't need no steenkin' speedo.
 
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