Kick Back and Terrible Backfire

[RyanTaylorTattoo]

My set up:
'80 xs650
PAMCO with E-ADVANCE
PMA (not hughs,was already installed on motor, but i do have one new in a box for another motor if i need to switch for some reason)
BATTERYLESS system
dual output coil
mikuni vm34s
open 1 1/2" exhaust

Just finished my bike and it was doing just fine after my 100 mile shakedown run the other day. i noticed the clutch plates were a lil worn and had a little chain slap on the fender where i didnt notch it out enough, just little things here and there but the bike did just fine. so i put it up on the lift and chopped the fender, put new clutch plates on, new clutch cable, new oil and filter, noticed there was a little debri in my fuel lines (running internal tank filters) so i hooked up some inline glass filters as well. replaced all the gaskets on all the covers including the valve covers and where the timing rod goes through the motor (previous owner had none anywhere, just the head and base gasket). i marked my timing plate when i pulled everything out to replace that side. i get everything buttoned up, off the lift to go down the road n check the new clutch plates and BOOM! first kicked sounded like i had just shot my pistol. "well, that was weird" BOOM!! second kick just the same, at this point im waitin for the cops to get called. now keep in mind this was a 1-2 kick bike. i retard the timing a tad and then wham, kickback like crazy. i go a little more, a little more, a little more. i eventually run the timing from full advance to full retard. no go. cant get the bike to start. im afraid to keep going. i dont wanna mess anything up. everything ive read says timing but i dont know why it would be since i havent changed a thing. i attached pictures of everything i could think of. from how the plate is set up to the gaskets i put on.

 

[buzzword]

Try disconnecting the charging system and connecting the ignition up with a separate battery instead of a capacitor. If it starts, that'll allow you to set the timing correctly using a strobe light with the bike running on a fresh battery.

Seems like there have been quite a few folks having issues with batteryless Pamco + PMA setups lately - maybe check some of the other threads too.

 

[RyanTaylorTattoo]

Try disconnecting the charging system and connecting the ignition up with a separate battery instead of a capacitor. If it starts, that'll allow you to set the timing correctly using a strobe light with the bike running on a fresh battery.

Seems like there have been quite a few folks having issues with batteryless Pamco + PMA setups lately - maybe check some of the other threads too.

every thread ive come across says check the battery (i dont have one) check the advance weights (i have an e advance system) i havent found one with all of the components that im running. i still dont understand what couldve happened since i didnt change any thing

 

[RyanTaylorTattoo]

id just hate to go buy a battery that ill never use again.

 

[RyanTaylorTattoo]

i havent even been able to get it to start to even hook up a timing light either

 

[5twins]

My best guess is your disassembly and re-assembly of the Pamco parts in the head has thrown the timing way off. In particular, I would check that replacement part for the advance unit on the right side. It is supposed to lock the advance rod to the cam in a certain spot so the timing is correct. Maybe it isn't aligned properly.

 

[RyanTaylorTattoo]

thats the only way it goes :/

 

[5twins]

OK, that pic is showing the locating pin in the advance rod. There's another locating pin stuck in a hole in the cam .....

Is the back end of the aluminum "sleeve" properly located on that?

 

[RyanTaylorTattoo]

i never took that off. everything is sitting flush and to be honest with you im not quite sure how to get that off.

 

[5twins]

If you take the little 10mm nut off, the aluminum part should just pull off the advance rod and cam. Just how did you get the housings off to put the new gaskets behind them? The advance rod has to come out, or at least the stuff on the ends removed, to remove those housings which means the Pamco stuff on one end or the other has to come off. Did you pull the Pamco rotor off the other side? That has a locating pin as well which locks/mounts it in a certain exact spot on the advance rod so the timing is correct.

 

[RyanTaylorTattoo]

the rod pulls out of that aluminum sleeve through the other side but that sleeve just stays in place. i didnt install the system it was on when i got it. that cover just pulled off over the aluminum sleeve after i took the 3 phillips heads out. just checked my plugs and they are loaded with fuel. im pulling the carbs now.

 

[weekendrider]

Like 5twins I think your cam shaft locating pin has fallen out and the advance side has turned. It may have stayed on the cam but is not oriented correctly. This is from the pamco e-advance installation instructions.
****************************************************************************************************************************************
Installation Instructions for the new Electronic Advancer
Removing the Mechanical Advancer
The new electronic advancer the place of the original mechanical advancer. The first step is to remove the mechanical advancer and slotted disk which is no longer needed. The advance rod is reused.

Note: It is essential that you install the trigger rotor on the advance rod before inserting the advance rod into the cam cavity.

1. With the trigger rotor attached to the end of the advance rod on the left side of the engine, install the advancer replacement on the advance rod on the right side of the engine being careful to ensure that the cam shaft locating pin and the advance rod locating pin are in their respective slots in the advancer replacement.
2. Install the washer and nut on the advance rod and tighten to secure the advancer replacement.