Thank you, all. I must stress that my declaration of 'Phase I complete' is very much a 'Mission Accomplished' moment. I've got plenty more to do!
 
....don't we all Daniel. I don't think a restoration is every really done.

There is no "done"....there is only "enough for now".
 
Daniel, After I get my bike mechanically sorted and as soon as I have the funds, I think I will return my bike to its original paint job. Which means our bikes will be twinsies. The current white paint job is a good 20 footer, if you know what I mean, but I have always had the intent to make the bike look like a new original.
I discovered the original Maxi Maroon color under the gas cap.
I am even kicking around the notion of doing the paint job myself. You can buy custom blended 2 stage paint and clear coat in spray cans from auto paint supply houses and the decals are readily available online. Applying the decal is the only thing that gives me pause. Even though I've applied decals before, they are tricky at best, and disastrous at worst! Haha . The challenging part is they are being applied to a compound curved surface.
Also, thanks for the heads up on that tire shop. That's where I will be getting my tires done.
 
And one more question, where did you get the stainless steel Allen head screws for your butterfly plates on your carbs?
 
Doing the paint yourself?! I'm nervous just taking on the restoration of my clear coat. But, I guess if you aren't happy with it, it could always be redone. Your PO already took the unrecoverable step. I do not know of a good paint shop, but I also haven't looked.

Mototire is great, I'm glad you're using them. They offer a veterans' discount, if that applies.

I got all my stainless hardware from Howard's Ace Hardware at 32nd & Indian School. Some Ace's are better than others when it comes to selection. The butterfly screws I used are merely flat topped countersunk screws. I believe 5twins uses a more elegant oval topped screw.
 
2M that's a great heads up, thank you. I believe mine are fully seated, but I'll make sure when I finally get to installing my new (used) clamps from Gary.
 
If you guys aren't familiar with the McMaster-Carr website, you should check it out. They're a giant industrial supply place but they sell to individuals as well now. I get most of my metric stainless hardware from them as well as most of my o-rings. They ship very fast and the shipping charges aren't bad. Sure, buy just one thing and shipping will kill the deal, but they have so much stuff it's easy to build up a $30 or $40 order and distribute the shipping cost between several items. Here's some things to consider - the o-rings for your needle jets .....

https://www.mcmaster.com/#9263K284

A perfect American size substitute o-ring for the cam chain adjuster acorn nut .....

https://www.mcmaster.com/#9452K81

Valve cover o-rings, the Viton ones cost more but may hold up better and longer than the Buna-N variety. Both are way cheaper than Mike's .....

https://www.mcmaster.com/#9262K408

https://www.mcmaster.com/#9263K747

E-clips for the advance .....

https://www.mcmaster.com/#98543A112

And there's so much more. Personally, I can't stand having to pay $2 or $3 for one little part. I don't care whether I ever use all the ones in a quantity bag, it's just the principal of the thing, lol.
 
Dang! I thought I found these perfect little Allen head screws at Ace Hardware. The thread pitch is perfect , the head angle fits perfect, but it is just a little too short. I wound up just re using the stock screws.
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And the story continues...

Stella's odo (not original) hit 26001 miles today. Time for an oil change. This is the third I've done; 1st service, 500mi of ownership, and now 1500mi.

In the first two changes I had seen quite a bit of debris. All little bits of rubber/plastic and a few flakes of non-ferrous metal. Upon all of your suggestions, my way forward has been to not worry about it and continue doing changes at the proper intervals to see if things clear up.

The good news is they have. Both the sump screen and the side filter (aftermarket cartridge) were nearly clean. Except this rather startling piece of plastic I found under the sump screen. There's enough of it that I have good hopes y'all will know exactly what's coming apart in there.

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Looks very much like one of the thin side pieces from the front cam chain guide. I think it can be safely ignored. That thin strip doesn't actually guide the chain.
 

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Thanks Gary. Yup, that looks like it!

It's good to know that particular piece isn't something to worry about immediately, but I'm pretty sure I'll be starting an engine thread by the time 2017/18 is out. The bit I found is rather brittle, the rest of the part as well, I'd think.
 
Generally the guide lasts a long time IF the cam tension is set, preferably by the snug til the rod quits moving then back off 1/3 turn at idle method. The common failure is the the whole rubber separating from the aluminum shoe. Then she starts making aluminum shavings, oil has a silver bronze swirl look, and even with the adjuster all the way in, the chain is still a bit loose and you can hear it slapping.
 
As you suggest, for now I'm continuing the careful maintenance and observation. Don't worry, I'm not pulling that motor until I'm good and ready. We're in fact-finding mode for now.
 
Yup - looks OK DB. Just keep an eye on it and if the volme of crappola coming out increases markedly, you've got a job to do.

....or if you find anything larger than a cigarette lighter in the filters.....
 
At Sunday's oil change I put in a fresh sump gasket to address Stella's tendency to mark her territory. Now I have quite the leak.

I'm going to start the usual checks for this situation. Remnants of old gasket? Sump plate flat? Raised surface around threaded holes?

Before I do so, I'm going to double-check the torque on the six sump plate bolts with an inch-pound wrench due in today's mail. I had used my foot-pound wrench, but 7ft-lbs is hardly within said wrench's most accurate range.

On another note: I've been neglecting the ol' 150cc scooter since upgrading to the 650. I can't sell if she doesn't run, and after sitting since August she wouldn't start. From start to finish, including dis- and assembly, I overhauled that little carb in 30 minutes. Her pilot jet was plugged, but now she runs as good as ever.
 
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