The maiden voyage. Coffee and bagel run. Bike ran perfect, sure hope I get home! Haha
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My 60th birthday present
- Thread starter Mailman
- Start date
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- Tags
- 1977 xs 650d chain and sprockets clutch pushrod seal cranckcase seal new front master cylinder pamco e-advance pamco ultimate high output ignition rebuild brake caliper rebuild brakes rebuilt carburetors replace clutch solid state rectifier stainless steel braid front brake line starter gear fix steering head bearings vr-115 regulator
Well the old girl found its way back to the barn!
Never missed a beat, it's giving me ( probably) undeserved confidence. Haha
I'm getting used to the wonky handling, the steering head bearings and swing arm bushings being shot. Don't get me wrong , it's not exactly terrifying. Just a little dodgy. My instruments however need serious work. Speedo and odometer not working, various instrument lights not working at all or blinking on and off. Ah ...well another day.
Pete made the comment to me once that his bike just ran better and better the more he rode it and I seem to be experiencing the same thing. The hanging rpm that I was experiencing never happened once today. Every time I pulled to a stop the idle came right down , nice and steady. Very smooth.
I'm really very happy with the recent progress.
Now I gotta go to work. Dang it!
Never missed a beat, it's giving me ( probably) undeserved confidence. Haha
I'm getting used to the wonky handling, the steering head bearings and swing arm bushings being shot. Don't get me wrong , it's not exactly terrifying. Just a little dodgy. My instruments however need serious work. Speedo and odometer not working, various instrument lights not working at all or blinking on and off. Ah ...well another day.
Pete made the comment to me once that his bike just ran better and better the more he rode it and I seem to be experiencing the same thing. The hanging rpm that I was experiencing never happened once today. Every time I pulled to a stop the idle came right down , nice and steady. Very smooth.
I'm really very happy with the recent progress.
Now I gotta go to work. Dang it!
DanielBlack
XS650 Junkie
Another respected gentleman here recently suggested to me that our bikes want to be on the road, not sitting in the garage being worked on. Not the worst advice.
You, sir, did an awful lot of detailed work to get that bagel. I hope you splurged for the lox.
You, sir, did an awful lot of detailed work to get that bagel. I hope you splurged for the lox.
Lol, no doubt. 4 months work just to go 4 miles down the road. 
I've found that carb changes sometimes take a little run time and a few miles to fully settle in. It's amazing what one jet size change can do sometimes. But, one of the first rules of jetting is that when you think you're right, try the size above and below to be sure. So, sometime in the future, after you sort some of the other stuff out, you may want to give the 127.5 mains a test. But, in the mean time, you can make up those custom jet bits. I grind and fit mine to new jets only, ones with perfect, unmolested screwdriver slots. Also note you may need to grind the sides down a little on the main jet bits so they will insert deep enough in the drain plug hole to reach the jet.
That's a very good idea! I already have the 127.5 jets sitting on my bench and also the next size up pilot.
I'm gonna have to go buy me some cheap shorty screwdrivers and bits and start shaving them down!
I'm gonna have to go buy me some cheap shorty screwdrivers and bits and start shaving them down!
This is excellent news Mailman - well done indeed!
What a journey for you and your old gal.....and yes, I found that Lucille got better and better each time I went for a ride. It was noticeable and quite remarkable really.
Cheers,
Pete
What a journey for you and your old gal.....and yes, I found that Lucille got better and better each time I went for a ride. It was noticeable and quite remarkable really.
Cheers,
Pete
mission creep ( definition)
Mission Creep happens when extra and often unnessesary details that are added to a project usually causing the project to spiral out of control. Mission Creep
slows down the process and causes things to creep along
This morning I went out to my lair about 10:30 with the objective of having a look at my speedometer to see why it wasn't working.
First of all thanks to Max Pete and Weekend Rider for pointing me in the right direction as far as testing goes.
So I jacked up my bike and made sure it was really secure...Pete.
Then I disconnected my speedo cable at the wheel and connected my drill to the cable and ran it in reverse and whadya know? It works!
So I pulled the front wheel to see why the speedo drive wasn't working. And what I found was probably self inflicted. I had both wheels off before I ever rode this bike to have new tires put on. Inside the left side of the front wheel is a washer with tangs on it that engage the speedo drive, and everything has to be in proper alignment. What I found was , that washer had been crushed and distorted and was not engaging the speedo drive.
So I cafully worked it flat with a hammer and re installed it.
But...let's not get ahead of ourselves. Here is where the mission creep comes in. I had the front wheel off and thought, why not pull the front disc off and repaint the black part. And why not resurface the disc while it's off, and why not install the new set of brake pads while I have the front end apart?
So I did all that and when I went to re install the front wheel.... the new pads were so much thicker than what came off I couldn't fit the disc back between them. I messed and messed with it. Finally I opened up the bleeder valve to relieve pressure and pressed on the piston to open up the space.
Now I have to bleed the brakes. The old fluid looked really dark and dirty....so Mission Creep again, why not flush the system and bleed the whole system. Which is what I wound up doing. Thank God I decided against changing out the front wheel bearings ( which I have out in my shop) or I would probably still be out there.
Ok now, lets go for a test ride. First thing I notice is MY SPEEDO WORKS!!! Woohoo!
And my brakes feel really good. More stopping power for sure.
This BEvERage is for you Pete!
Mission Creep happens when extra and often unnessesary details that are added to a project usually causing the project to spiral out of control. Mission Creep
slows down the process and causes things to creep along
This morning I went out to my lair about 10:30 with the objective of having a look at my speedometer to see why it wasn't working.
First of all thanks to Max Pete and Weekend Rider for pointing me in the right direction as far as testing goes.
So I jacked up my bike and made sure it was really secure...Pete.
Then I disconnected my speedo cable at the wheel and connected my drill to the cable and ran it in reverse and whadya know? It works!
So I pulled the front wheel to see why the speedo drive wasn't working. And what I found was probably self inflicted. I had both wheels off before I ever rode this bike to have new tires put on. Inside the left side of the front wheel is a washer with tangs on it that engage the speedo drive, and everything has to be in proper alignment. What I found was , that washer had been crushed and distorted and was not engaging the speedo drive.
So I cafully worked it flat with a hammer and re installed it.
But...let's not get ahead of ourselves. Here is where the mission creep comes in. I had the front wheel off and thought, why not pull the front disc off and repaint the black part. And why not resurface the disc while it's off, and why not install the new set of brake pads while I have the front end apart?
So I did all that and when I went to re install the front wheel.... the new pads were so much thicker than what came off I couldn't fit the disc back between them. I messed and messed with it. Finally I opened up the bleeder valve to relieve pressure and pressed on the piston to open up the space.
Now I have to bleed the brakes. The old fluid looked really dark and dirty....so Mission Creep again, why not flush the system and bleed the whole system. Which is what I wound up doing. Thank God I decided against changing out the front wheel bearings ( which I have out in my shop) or I would probably still be out there.
Ok now, lets go for a test ride. First thing I notice is MY SPEEDO WORKS!!! Woohoo!
And my brakes feel really good. More stopping power for sure.
This BEvERage is for you Pete!
Last edited:
EXCELLENT Bob - well done indeed! So...now there is no excuse for getting a speeding ticket on that beautiful old gal......
OK - unless some of the gurus have another idea for the tachometer - I would do the same thing to test the instrument:
BTW - when I was resurrecting Lucille, I simply replaced all four cables (speedo, tach, throttle and clutch). They cost peanuts (like about $65 CDN for ALL FOUR of them!!) and why ride with dodgey components?
....and many thanks for the BEvERage! You have good taste my friend.
Pete
PS - despite all the troubles you've had getting to this point, that really is a very very nice bike you've got there Bob.
OK - unless some of the gurus have another idea for the tachometer - I would do the same thing to test the instrument:
- disconnect the cable at the lower end:
- chuck the end into your drill;
- give it a spin and see if the tach reads.
BTW - when I was resurrecting Lucille, I simply replaced all four cables (speedo, tach, throttle and clutch). They cost peanuts (like about $65 CDN for ALL FOUR of them!!) and why ride with dodgey components?
....and many thanks for the BEvERage! You have good taste my friend.
Pete
PS - despite all the troubles you've had getting to this point, that really is a very very nice bike you've got there Bob.
TimeMachine
SeventyEighte
Sweet Mailman !Thats Rock n Roll ! Sunday ride
TimeMachine
SeventyEighte
Loosen the tach cable at both ends, "float" them back in tight in line to minimize cable vibrations. familiar with tach vibs myself.. -RT
Hey hey hey guys! My tach works perfectly fine! Thank you!
Not everything on this old girl is broken! Haha
Not everything on this old girl is broken! Haha
Yup - agreed on that RT.
In fact, I would spend a bit of time on the cable before digging into the RH engine case Mailman. I'll betcha a dwink that the instrument is fine (they hardly ever fail IME) and if nobody has been inside that engine case, there is no reason for the tach drive gear to be faulty.
In fact, I would spend a bit of time on the cable before digging into the RH engine case Mailman. I'll betcha a dwink that the instrument is fine (they hardly ever fail IME) and if nobody has been inside that engine case, there is no reason for the tach drive gear to be faulty.
Superb! As Fog Horn Leghorn the rooster in Bugs Bunny cartons used to say...."Ahhhhh tol' ya so sonny!"
Went for a sunrise ride this morning. Rode about 20 miles. All systems GO! I've put about 50 miles on it since I got it licensed. Each ride a little farther than the last.
TimeMachine
SeventyEighte
What a Beauty ! Sunday Morning there is very warm looking .. Such Fantastic news Bob ! Enjoy -RT
So are you heading towards Mountian View, AR next week? Leaving on Monday week you should make Friday easy. Taking the southern route shouldn't be too cold. And you won't ever be far from help should you need it. C'mon now the forum needs a road trip as bad as you. Don't let us down.
You've well earned that Senior Coffee at McDonald's.
Scott
Scott
You mentioned planning to do several head re-torques in an attempt to cure your leaking head gasket. I have similar plans as mine has started leaking too. Mine is a replacement from my rebuild nearly 10 years ago. I've always kept it tight but it gave out anyway it seems, don't know why for sure. But, I may have a theory. I've been checking all the torque specs from the various years and noticed some spec as high as 18 ft/lbs for the 8mm bolts under the plugs. I've always made them about 16. That wasn't wrong according to some year's specs. This value ranged from a low of 14 up to 18 over the years. My new theory is that maybe with my tighter than original big acorn nut torque (30-32), those two outside edges aren't being pulled down tight enough anymore? Maybe I'm warping my head slightly? Anyway, on my re-torques, I'm going with the 18 ft/lbs for those outside bolts and will probably back the big acorns off some, to 30 or maybe even 28. Maybe that will exert a more even clamping force on the head.
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