Autozones' 4 bay fuse box

Bob Kelly III

Ranch Kid from way back,.... that got Old !
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I went to Autozone today and after a Long search Finally found one of the fuse boxes they have on their web site.... they wanted $11.99 for it and it comes without fuzes,
I had my wife read me the info on it and it said to my supprise a max of 15 amps per fuse and 45 amps Max for the entire thing.....
that put me off and I left the store without buying it .... because I know the XS650 needs one 20 amp
fuse and the rest 10 amp
I have seen this exact fuse block in photos here on the site that guys have installed on there bikes
And I am wondering if anyone has had their fuse box melt on the 20 amp side ????
I have a tendancy to believe the manifacturer is just being overly cautious But.........
because the blade connectors to the wires can handle 20 amps and that is what they had in the plastic box.... evedently the plastic can't handle the heat though ..... so if you've installed a 4 bay modern fuse holder on your bike I'ed like to hear from you and see if you've had any trouble with it
thanks !
Bob.......
 
Good point Bob. Myself, I'd use it anyways, although I don't like those blade connectors, and I've never had a bike that those bulky things would fit in the original spot.

Scott
 
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fusebox detail.jpg
Yes I've put in a couple, don't know if they are the same one you are talking about. I drill and put a wire straight through three the blades on one side makes it more compact and neat. I also made a 5 fuse block for my five cylinder diesel van, it handles all the glow plugs at once they draw about 17 amps each.
 
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that looks really close to it gggGary ! plastic cover and all.... but the blades in the side stuck out alot more than on your photo
do you remember what it's amp rating was for the fuse holders ? I was really surprised to find only 15 amp ability ! that's kind'a strange !
.....
and 17 amps each for all 5 slots and it hasn't melted it ain't going to melt at all !!!!!!
.....
Thanks Gary !
Bob.........
 
Gary, I think I understand how you're tying the 3 input tabs together, but I have a couple questions. First, how do you insulate all that? You don't leave it all bare and open, right? Second, how do you plug a wire onto a tab with a wire stuck through it's side?
 
^I would use this on each lug instead of soldering, and insulation is taken care of. You'd need to crimp two wires into two of them; no problem

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Gary, I think I understand how you're tying the 3 input tabs together, but I have a couple questions. First, how do you insulate all that? You don't leave it all bare and open, right? Second, how do you plug a wire onto a tab with a wire stuck through it's side?


Look again, there's no other way to wire it. Great picture Gary, it explains everything. Those three connected lugs are connected to a power source after the ignition switch, just like the originals. "We are the originals", Ringo Starr.

Scott
 
Gary, I think I understand how you're tying the 3 input tabs together, but I have a couple questions. First, how do you insulate all that? You don't leave it all bare and open, right? Second, how do you plug a wire onto a tab with a wire stuck through it's side?
it is a bit tricky to insulate, I keep meaning to get a can of brush on insulation. I wus look'n for a pic but don't have one or those bikes anymore. :shrug:.

You can let the wire extend out and solder or crimp it to the iggy return lead, or if you keep it flush on one side of an end terminal, a female blade connector will slide around it.
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I finally bought a Chinese ratcheting terminal crimper with 4 jaw sets, and for the first time can crimp on a variety of solderless lugs that STAY on. Woot, Woot!
 
Those connectors are crap, they'll start your harness on fire, get out the marshmallows.

Scott
Used them on 450 volts all day long month after month. Would not have been marshmallow temperatures, rather 10,000 degree fireball :smoke:But wires and terminals come in sizes, not one size fits all.
 
it is a bit tricky to insulate, I keep meaning to get a can of brush on insulation.
Another way would be to get heat shrink that just fit over the lugs; leave about 1/4" sticking past the lugs and it'll shrink down to nothing over the wires coming out there.
 
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