Haha. I also have a Head of Finance that can't fathom why I would want 2nd project, when I already "own perfectly good morcycle"

Ya, and while a different price point, the standard response around here appears to be, “And how many purses and pairs of shoes do you need?”
 
Cat pictures become contagious.
Something needs to be done about them.

OK Dude, I see your cat and raise you a dog.

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Here is the info on how I rigged up an analog Voltmeter mounting set up.

As I mentioned the triple gauge old school look really appealed to me and as SEd27 says fits with the vintage. The early model XS's gauge/dash setup allow for a really slick custom plate mount above and between both gauges but we can't do that with these newer models instrument clusters

I saw and liked this analog gauge set up of retiredgentleman's and knew that was the way I wanted to go.

RG Voltmeter.JPG


However, I didn't take into account that the Specials bar mounts must be higher and at a different angle, or the tank profile is lower which allows for more clearance above and in front of the crown nut.

Every project needs a plan so here is my quick drawing. The 22° angle matches up with the triple tree offset, gives some visual symmetry to the bottom edge of the mounting plate.
VM drawing resize.jpg


Couldn't figure out how to get the required clearance so I got these motocross handlebar mirror risers on eBay.

clamps.jpg


http://www.ebay.ca/itm/MOTORCYCLE-D...m3ab24fcbd5:m:m0BD1oZ5M8o1_tmY0i3VAkw&vxp=mtr

Still needed more clearance above the crown nut so I grabbed a piece of aluminum tubing and drilled out the right ID for a couple of risers. Of course then spent a couple of minutes at one of my small parts polishers to shine em up. Ya I know, no one will see them, but I'll know.

WP_20161012_010.jpg


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Couldn't find any 10mm lower profile button head bolts so had to use these big Allen's.

I then shortened the legs on the V/M mounting bracket and trimmed the wire mounting bolts shorter for even more clearance. (Shown here before trimming shorter) Apparently not enough though. I will trim them further and shrink wrap those wire nut and bolt connections this time for added insurance.

Took a scrap of aluminum fascia and trim brown/black coil stock and using an aluminum brake bent a 3/8” 'safety’ on one edge, a 3/8” 90 on the other. O/A height 2 3/8”.

WP_20161014_003.jpg


I think I clamped some round steel stock vertically in a vice and used that as a bending - shaping jig to form the case to fit just inside the mounting plate outer edges.

WP_20161023_004.jpg


After trimming the case to fit around everything it's pretty rude and crude, cleaned it up a bit after this pic but there's not enough mounting surface left to drill and pop rivet. So I went to our local specialty hardware store Facca Fasteners. http://www.faccafasteners.com/
Kind of a baby McMaster Carr. Asked for some black high strength, vibration resistant industrial adhesive. Guy asked, “Do you want the $10 strong or the $70 strong?”

Ah, let's start with the $10 strong. Seems to be holding together just fine.

Weicon.jpg



Wired up in the headlight bucket. Had an empty spot on this dual bullet connector for voltmeter power and spliced in another double in the headlight wire to power V/M light. Grounded to turn signal stalk. I have now added this mini blade fuse to further protect this supply circuit.
We all know that old adage 'measure twice cut once’ Well I was marching merrily along and cut both of the fuse holder leads, so I have a new one, 'cut twice, crimp twice’

VM bucket wiring.jpg


Here's a view from another angle.

IMG_20170410_151222.jpg


Edit: Overall I was fairly pleased with finding a way to make this gauge work but feel it looks overly big, bulky, chunky. As SEd27 mentions, the depth of the gauge poses the biggest problem to get enough clearance over the crown nut if you are trying for the centered triple gauge effect. So with the housing required, it certainly isn't a sleek, neat solution. However, it does the job. A case where form follows function I guess.

The other thing I want to try is to track down some Virago handlebar mounts like gggGary uses. They appear to move the bars up and back towards the rider almost clearing the crown nut. While a housing would still be required it looks like the installation could be much lower to the bars, similar to RG's, which is a much neater, cleaner job. Would have to check for clearance/interference with the tank though.

This is a lot of messing around just for the sake of an analog gauge. Good sense and good judgement would probably say to just spend $10 on a digital one with USB charging support or do the Stop Lamp digital V/M mod as DanielBlack and 5twins have done and documented.

I sure miss the peace of mind that this provided and am anxiously awaiting the new ones arrival.
Hope this helps inspire some ideas.
 
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That's a great write up Robin, that looks really nice, I was wondering just how the handlebar risers came into play. Great job the way you created a housing for it too. Why is it your headlight bucket looks so much neater than mine?
By the way I love the blue print you created for this project, it looks almost like it was created by an architect......oh wait. :cool:
 
LOL, thanks Bob. Had I been paying more attention, I probably would have just bought a digital meter. But I like the look of a gauge and
CHOHW it wasn't going to beat me. I would make it work somehow.

Hey, it was a fun fab project. Passed some time.
 
Robin's VM installation really looks good folks - I saw it last weekend and it looks like a factory part. The housing he fabbed up is really well done and the whole installation is neat, tidy and sturdy.

I wonder if an alternative might be to mount that meter up above the instruments in the middle. above the headlight - right ahead of the centre console where the turn signal indicators are (something like in the photo below). Some of the early liquid cooled bikes had their coolant temp gauges mounted there as I recall. That way, you could leave all the idiot lights and indicators in place while not getting anywhere near the fuel tank cap.

DSC03308.jpg
 
You know Pete, that's a great idea. I briefly considered it and discarded the idea thinking an aluminum housing wouldn't be strong enough to withstand wind shear, weather, big bugs, small bats, and other projectiles out in front, if it weren't protected behind the instrument cluster.

I have since been exploring solutions for my other bike to see if there is a way to still use an analog meter. I have ordered a unit like yours for a starting point but:
I was thinking I would make a multi angled mounting plate/bracket assembly in location A, mount it off the lower instrument cluster bolt, and enclose the gauge in large enough aluminum tubing with a thick enough wall to protect it.

This same idea could be used to put the gauge where it rightly belongs in location B. Huh, slick.

Gonna spend some time playing with this one. Thanks for the idea.

Petes idea 2.jpg
 
You know Pete, that's a great idea. I briefly considered it and discarded the idea thinking an aluminum housing wouldn't be strong enough to withstand wind shear, weather, big bugs, small bats, and other projectiles out in front, if it weren't protected behind the instrument cluster.

I have since been exploring solutions for my other bike to see if there is a way to still use an analog meter. I have ordered a unit like yours for a starting point but:
I was thinking I would make a multi angled mounting plate/bracket assembly in location A, mount it off the lower instrument cluster bolt, and enclose the gauge in large enough aluminum tubing with a thick enough wall to protect it.

This same idea could be used to put the gauge where it rightly belongs in location B. Huh, slick.

Gonna spend some time playing with this one. Thanks for the idea.

View attachment 104088


Robinc, thanks for the detailed breakdown. That housing looks great.
 
Yes, you do nice work. If you apply the same attention to detail to your topend work, you shouldn't have any problems. In fact, I think you're going to quite enjoy the whole process.

Thank you 5twins. I am actually looking forward to it. The more I study and read, the less intimidating it becomes.
 
This was the 1st overhead cam motor I ever was into and the cam timing/timing chain stuff intimidated me at first, but it's really very simple. Re-installing the cam properly timed is easy once you understand why it needs to be in that exact spot. There's nothing really special or exotic about these motors. They're your basic overhead cam 4 stroke motor.
 
Wanted to put a few miles on before posting an update.

FINALLY
got around to assembling a manometer.

IMG_20170811_172304.jpg


Prior to hooking it up I spent a little more time on fine tuning mix screws. I had them set to factory specs, which is 2 ¼ turns out on these 78/79’s, and played with them a little by ear previously. After reading and discussing Mailman's latest carb tuning results with him, I thought I’d try the dead cylinder method to see if I could get them closer.

Left side was good but right side would die when I pulled the left plug wire. So I richened the mix by about ¾’s of a turn and everything settled down perfectly. Tried fine tuning by ear again and didn't have to change anything. Each side will idle at 800-900 using the dead cylinder method.

Hooked up the manometer and I couldn’t believe how close I was with just a bench sync using 2 - 1/16” drill bits. Was within a couple of inches in the columns.

And here's where I got it after playing with it for a few minutes. Man those things are super, super sensitive.

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Have since put 400 miles on and my hanging idle is gone, and no more sputtering or coughing.

She is running EXACTLY as she should. Purrs like the proverbial kitten. Settles right down to 1200-1300. Took awhile to trust that she wasn't going to stall whenever I decelerated.
Mileage is averaging 55 mpg combined city/ highway.

But what's odd is how far I am off on my mix screws. Should be 2 ¼ turns out.
Right is 1 ½, and left is 3 ¼. Hey, I'm not complaining, she's running great, but it does seem to big a big difference between carbs.

Almost seems a shame to tear into her but I know it needs doing and will be a great end of the season/winter project.

A pic from today:

Glencoe gas greyscale.jpg


OOOOppss.....wrong thread.

Hey, how about another new game:
‘Old Train Station photo with your XS.’


Glencoe Train Station resize.jpg


Now to go looking for some more old gas (and train) stations!
 
Very cool post Robin - I really like your manometer!

How do you connect it on your 78? I would like to do that on my '76 but there aren't any connection barbs on the carb mount sleeves (the ones that are bolted to the cylinder head).

Very nice pictures of the old gas and rail stations too!

Pete
 
Thanks Pete.

Well as the saga continues I pretty much have a Frankenbike. The bike is a 77D but the carbs and manifolds now installed are off a 78/79. Those carb manifolds have the brass nipples for vacuum to the gas tank petcocks, which allow a perfect place to hook up a manometer and then cap them off in any manner of means afterwards.

I'm not totally familiar with the 76/77 carbs as I've never has a set, in spite of the fact that this bike is a 77. It came with 74/75 Frankencarbs. Although in saying that I think your carbs have a fitting similar to this (pardon the damaged carb pic, it's the first one I could find).

Pete manometer fitting.jpg


You simple remove that screw and turn in a brass fitting with an o-ring to hook up your manometer.

IIRC it is a 6mm brass fitting, but don't hold me to that. My memories good, just short.
You may not have that fitting, and if not let me know. I bought a small bag of them from Aliexpress and can send you a couple with some small o-rings if you don't have any.

Must be some nice old gas/train stations out in he countryside around you? How bout' some old Hotels....lol.
 
That's great Robin, sounds like you've got her dialed in! I have the same situation with my air screws, the two sides are pretty un equal, but hey, whatever works! I plan on RE making my manometer this weekend with the correct size tubing this time!

Love the photos. I really like the black and white.
 
Thanks Bob.
Had a GREAT ride today. Gotta love 5th at 3.8 to 4.
We have a low front coming in so was pushing a lot of wind. Gonna start asking for windshield suggestions.

I'm anxious to hear your manometer results.

Take care buddy.
 
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