Jim's 1980 SG Miss September

[Paul Sutton]

Geedubya, there are various alternatives to replacing/repairing the stock 4 fuse box. Ebay is a good starting place. You will note from this thread that for Jim's new fuse box to work he will try to isolate one of the fuses. This approach will be quite tidy because there will only be a red and brown input and 4 output wires. Lets hope Jim is successful and I am sure he will be.

The following link is to a similar fuse box which has 4 totally independent fuses:
https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/4-Way-Ca...968312?hash=item2cc3f1dab8:g:d2EAAOSwxixaGUC1
I originally tried this one but in my opinion it looked untidy by the time I had fitted 4 inputs and 4 outputs. Also it was too high to fit nicely under my SH's seat. So do measure up well and buy a fuse box that will fit nicely in the space available.

In Entry 252 above Downeaster showed where he fitted his fuse box with 4 independent fuses and it is very tidy. On my SH this position is not available for use because the airboxes fill the entire space.

I eventually bought a modern copy of the XS650 fuse box from Ebay:
https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Yamaha-N...640090?hash=item3624438a5a:g:6LsAAOSwal5YCdxf
The difference between these models just seems to be the fuse values and where the wires exit the box, but this adjustment is easily made.

Others have also used 4 individual blade fuse holders.

If you want some extra life out of your stock fuse holder then carefully remove the clips and put a thick layer of solder in the bottom corners where the brass tends to crack.

A very interest repair was made by Vlad where he replaced the old clips with new (See Entry 27):
http://www.xs650.com/threads/vlads-restoration-project-w-pics.34595/page-2#post-517124
The supplier details as given.

Best of luck.

Edit: See Ebay Australia for XS650 fuse box

 

[Jim]

G'da Jim,

Where did you buy that Fuse box??

GW

I got it off of Amazon.

 

[Jim]

I don't think they teach science in school anymore....
Just went to the store to get a fresh propane bottle to warm up the garage.
"I'd like to swap out a gas bottle please" I said to the millennial behind the counter.
"Propane?" she asks...
"Nah... think I'll try the hydrogen this time" I said.
She pulls her flip cards out and starts flipping through them. After bout' 30 sec. she starts looking around for a manager and says "I think all we have is propane. Let me ask the manager....."
"That's OK, I'll just take the propane."
Kids....

 

[Mailman]

Hey! A hydrogen heater could be ...a...a......probably not good.

That is unless you wanted a whole bunch of heat......RIGHT NOW!

 

[Mailman]

" Fill er up, with hydrogen , please! "

 

[Jim]

Oh the humanity.....

 

[MaxPete]

James....you get right back in the house this instant young man - and stop teasing that nice young girl at the store!!!!

.....and then you made me snort with the line from the Hindenburg broadcast.

 

[Jim]

So, the fuse box showed up today. Like any red blooded 8 yr. old, first thing I did was take it apart. In my excitement, I forgot to take some pics... so bare with me here....
It was easy to disassemble and, as I suspected, pretty easy to isolate one of the fuses. All it took was a pair of dykes (why do we call them pairs? there's only one....).

After numerous rabbit holes that I won't go into, I decided to drill through the tab I cut off and insert the feed wire from the back....

Soldered the wire to the cutoff tab and soldered a small black wire to go to the circuit board to complete the LED circuit....

Soldered the black wire to the main chassis and cut a pathway in the backside for the feed wire...

Epoxied the wire into the cutout....

Reassembled... and here we are. A fuse box with a power feed to a single fuse (1) and a separate (original) feed to the other 3 (2, 3 and 4) fuses.

I think that I'll get some RTV tomorrow and fill the inside for added vibration protection. I'm gonna order another one for a spare and I promise, I'll take more detailed pics when I mod the next one.

 

[MaxPete]

Very nice Jim - that should work well!

 

[Mailman]

I like it Jim! Very stealthy.

 

[Griz]

I’m not quite a millennial but I did miss a lot of science classes...what’s the point of isolating a fuse? Also, Forgive me for not reading the entire post. There were too many words and not enough large colorful pictures

 

[Paul Sutton]

Griz, this is a 4-way fuse box with one power input at the screw/nut supplying 4 outputs via the 4 fuses.

The wiring for the XS requires 1 fuse between the rectifier/regulator power output and the battery (red wire). The isolated fuse does this and as a conseqence the 4-way is now reduced to a 3-way fuse box.

The red wire also carries power to the ignition switch. When switched on power is supplied from the ignition switch on a brown wire back to the 3-way fuse box where it connects to the screw/nut which is common to the remaining 3 fuses. These 3 fuses now give power to the red/white, red/yellow and brown wires for the various systems connected to the harness e.g. red/white is power to the ignition system.

Shorter Version: We have just butchered the 4-way fuse box to create a single inline fuse and what remains is now a 3-way fuse box to power the bikes systems.

 

[mrtwowheel]

Those connector tabs and the way they stick out into space bother me, just one of my quirks, like bungee cords and antique furniture. Hard wired and removing the connector tabs would make those fuse boxes less of an after thought, like a short harness and one multi-connector to tie into the harness.

Scott

 

[Paul Sutton]

Mrtwowheel, I viewed the connectors as being a bit untidy original but they looked a lot nicer with 90 Degree spade connectors. The straight spade connectors made the wires stick out too much.

 

[Jim]

Update on the fuse box.
A very intelligent electrical engineering buddy of mine pointed out to me that I needed to remove the black wire I installed so that I don't power the three 10A fuses with the key off. So I removed it and tested it with a trouble light....

As advertised, the LED lights up when you pull the fuse. So, I filled it with RTV and put it back together.... ready to install. The main feed LED doesn't work, but a completely dead bike would be a good indicator to check the 20A fuse
Thanks Paul

 

[MaxPete]

Very nice!

 

[Griz]

Griz, this is a 4-way fuse box with one power input at the screw/nut supplying 4 outputs via the 4 fuses.

The wiring for the XS requires 1 fuse between the rectifier/regulator power output and the battery (red wire). The isolated fuse does this and as a conseqence the 4-way is now reduced to a 3-way fuse box.

The red wire also carries power to the ignition switch. When switched on power is supplied from the ignition switch on a brown wire back to the 3-way fuse box where it connects to the screw/nut which is common to the remaining 3 fuses. These 3 fuses now give power to the red/white, red/yellow and brown wires for the various systems connected to the harness e.g. red/white is power to the ignition system.

Shorter Version: We have just butchered the 4-way fuse box to create a single inline fuse and what remains is now a 3-way fuse box to power the bikes systems.

I have been informed. The fog of ingnorance is not so thick anymore. It’s still pretty heavy though. I’ll keep reading posts

 

[Jim]

Fabricated the plate for the fuse box today. Cut from .063 aluminum sheet....

Riveted on a couple of floating 10-32 nutplates for the box.....

A little OCD treatment.....

And put it all together....

Now I gotta' wait for my 90 deg. terminals to arrive so I can wire it all up.

 

[Downeaster]

Nicely done, Captain.

 

[Paul Sutton]

Nicely done and a fine touch with the pits filled with molten silver then polished. I like the way to tied the Br, R/W and R/Y wires together rather than trim them out - preserves your options sometime in the future??

Edit: I like the polished stainless steel bolt heads.