pamcopete
Ride.Enjoy.Life is Simple
I found your earlier Email and responded.
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Boyer and Pamco Ignition
- Thread starter 650Skull
- Start date
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- electrical ignition pamco
whats the difference in the new simplified pamco and the first version? is one better suited for e-advance than the other? I had the old one on my bike and cooked it by leaving my ignition on. now I need a new one and am not sure which one to get...
pamcopete
Ride.Enjoy.Life is Simple
The simplified "New" version does not have the capability to drive the coil directly but instead uses the transistors in the E-Advancer. The E-Advancer works equally well on either the new or the original version of the sensor plate. This was done so you could buy the E-Advancer seperately and install it on an existing early version PAMCO by removing the mechanical advancer.
"Madness" is out of the crypt after a 4 year hiatus. It has an older pamco and e-advance set that was mostly wired but never powered up or fired. Finished the wiring today, no spark.This bike is factory charging and battery. Coil sparks if I remove green and ground/open that terminal. I have +12 to the e-advance red but not at the red wire leaving the e-advance going to the trigger. Should +12 be going through the e-advance whenever the ignition is on? Is there a "time out" on that wire in the e-advance? can I jumper the +12 to power the trigger and see what happens? I'm digging around, I think there's another e-advance here somewhere.
pamcopete
Ride.Enjoy.Life is Simple
gggGary,
The original E-Advancer provided +5 Volts to the sensors on the red wire from the blue box to the sensors. Later models and the current model provide +12 instead. The E-Advancer does not allow a ground on the green wire to the coil when you initially turn on the ignition. This to prevent frying the coil by inadvertently turning the ignition on with the engine not running. However, this protection is not there once the engine is running, meaning if the engine stops running and you leave the ignition on, you could fry the coil and / or the E-Advancer. You could jumper +12 to the red wires to the sensors, but first, disconnect the red wires from the sensors to the E-Advancer. Before doing anything else, put a meter on the green wire from the box to the coils and turn the engine over to see if the green wire is alternating from ground to +12. A better way to do this test is to remove the advance substitute, allowing you to spin the advance rod for the test without having to turn the engine over. The +12 for this test comes from the coils, so the green wire has to stay connected to the coil.
The original E-Advancer provided +5 Volts to the sensors on the red wire from the blue box to the sensors. Later models and the current model provide +12 instead. The E-Advancer does not allow a ground on the green wire to the coil when you initially turn on the ignition. This to prevent frying the coil by inadvertently turning the ignition on with the engine not running. However, this protection is not there once the engine is running, meaning if the engine stops running and you leave the ignition on, you could fry the coil and / or the E-Advancer. You could jumper +12 to the red wires to the sensors, but first, disconnect the red wires from the sensors to the E-Advancer. Before doing anything else, put a meter on the green wire from the box to the coils and turn the engine over to see if the green wire is alternating from ground to +12. A better way to do this test is to remove the advance substitute, allowing you to spin the advance rod for the test without having to turn the engine over. The +12 for this test comes from the coils, so the green wire has to stay connected to the coil.
I found the NOS e-advance in the shed, dated 2013, the one on madness is about that age also. I removed the e-advance, and the sensor fires the coil. I'm wiring the other advancer in now.
pamcopete
Ride.Enjoy.Life is Simple
OK. You must then have the original PAMCO acting as the "sensor" because the sensor that comes with the E-Advancer cannot drive the coil.
I'm going to throw a 12 volt LED indicator light across the coil terminals, should make a perfect litlle ignition verifier will be interesting to see how long it can take the abuse. 
yeah, was pretty sure this was a "Pre E" sensor. also from 2013 or before.
Are there numbers on them? IIRC the older sensors have more "stuff" on the board, the e-only were pretty simple looking?
Are there numbers on them? IIRC the older sensors have more "stuff" on the board, the e-only were pretty simple looking?
pamcopete
Ride.Enjoy.Life is Simple
Those were the days.....Life was simple....decisions were easy....
the one I removed.
The one I put in
the sensor
The one I put in
the sensor
Exposed red wire on the sensor
We are good now. Changed the e-advance and brm brm.
always thought that you had a slack throttle gary lol 
First time I've seen madness in the flesh .. I remember your last test run a few years back which I thought was very impressive .
First time I've seen madness in the flesh .. I remember your last test run a few years back which I thought was very impressive .
Bump
Whatrwe bumping skull?
Just added a couple of links and as a Pamco Question was asked i thought i would bring this back to the top of the garage
Whatrwe bumping skull?
Just added a couple of links and as a Pamco Question was asked i thought i would bring this back to the top of the garage
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What'r we bumping skull?
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That led lived about 5 seconds and was toast. Lol. Madness is getting quite a bit of rewiring done. The ignition lives. It fired today while checking the starter.
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I just installed a electronic ignition kit from mikesxs which came with the electronic ignition, e-advancer, coil, plugs, etc.
Inspecting the e-advancer, it had PAMCO on it. So, I am posting to this thread with my issue.
Following the instructions to the 'T', it starts flawlessly, and timing was almost perfect starting with the timing plate set to the midpoint of the upper slot. My idle is 1150 RPM.
Here comes the bad part... The timing does not advance as I roll on the throttle. Using a timing light, the mark on the rotor (A PMA kit I installed a while ago from mikesxs) stayed dead still at the fire mark. It never moved as I went up to 3000 RPM. The engine would cut out at these higher RPM's I suspect because the spark was not advancing. I have confirmed a good ground, and the voltage supply to the ignition system stays between 13 and 14.5 volts all the time.
I have contacted mikesxs with my issue, but I decided to also post here in case I can learn something.
Also, it is interesting because my circuit board does not look like anything else I have seen from Pamco. I am wondering if I got the wrong e-advancer?
Thank you in advance (no pun intended),
Sam
Inspecting the e-advancer, it had PAMCO on it. So, I am posting to this thread with my issue.
Following the instructions to the 'T', it starts flawlessly, and timing was almost perfect starting with the timing plate set to the midpoint of the upper slot. My idle is 1150 RPM.
Here comes the bad part... The timing does not advance as I roll on the throttle. Using a timing light, the mark on the rotor (A PMA kit I installed a while ago from mikesxs) stayed dead still at the fire mark. It never moved as I went up to 3000 RPM. The engine would cut out at these higher RPM's I suspect because the spark was not advancing. I have confirmed a good ground, and the voltage supply to the ignition system stays between 13 and 14.5 volts all the time.
I have contacted mikesxs with my issue, but I decided to also post here in case I can learn something.
Also, it is interesting because my circuit board does not look like anything else I have seen from Pamco. I am wondering if I got the wrong e-advancer?
Thank you in advance (no pun intended),
Sam
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pamcopete
Ride.Enjoy.Life is Simple
solo2racr
Suck, Squeeze, Bang, Blow
'Bout time to hit up Mike's with a fraud lawsuit?? "PAMCO" is clearly printed (in the lower left corner of the pic) on the FAKE PCB.
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