Jim's 1980 SG Miss September

Basically what's happening is that when starter solenoid is energized, power to the starter (from the solenoid) also goes to the cutout relay I added (bottom right). That opens the power wire to the regulator, killing the field current going to the rotor. Result is the 2.5 amp power to the alternator is interrupted when the starter is energized. Two and a half amps saved.... and no magnetic field at the rotor that the starter has to work against. More amps available to the starter (especially with a marginal/low battery) and the starter doesn't have to work harder against the magnetic field in the alternator. Until I test it, I won't know how much it helps, but in a marginal situation (low battery) I think it will help quiet a bit.
 
But if you kill the power output to and from the alternator, won't that kill the voltage sent out on the yellow wire to the starter safety relay? Won't that stop the starter from being automatically shut off when the motor starts?
 
Won't that stop the starter from being automatically shut off when the motor starts?
Yeah it will. You'll actually have to let go of the button.. which is fine with me.
 
Oops.... One Step Backwards
So... I was getting ready to install the back wheel and this caught my eye....

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The ear that's welded to the swingarm for the shock mount is bent inward towards the shock. Yup... ol' dipstick here installed the shocks minus the steel bushings. Torquing the bolts bent the ears in till it pinched the shocks. Took the shocks back off while debating how to straighten the ears on a freshly painted swingarm without scratching the hell out of it. I finally found a piece of cone shaped brass from a previous lathe project... Found a bolt that could push against the brass and bent it back into the correct shape...

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It worked well. Only scratches I got were extremely small ones from pinching the shock.... added same to my touch-up list when the bike is done.
The mount bushing that came with the shocks were cheesy plastic ones that I promptly threw away. So... here's how to remove 40yr. old bushings stuck in age hardened rubber....

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A soft jaw vise and two sockets. Man... it was tight. I almost had to put a cheater bar on the vise. Once it came out, I had to cut the rubber off with an Exacto knife and cleaned it up with a Roloc disk...

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Used the vise to press the bushing into the new rubber...

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And put it all back together....

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My wife keeps tellin' me I shouldn't include my screw-ups in this thread. I disagree. You learn from your mistakes. If some of you guys learn from mine so you don't make the same ones.... I'm happy.:)
 
Hey, Jim,
Nobody doesn't not make no mistakes, never.... Or, as Judd Nelson's character said in "The Breakfast Club" "...screws fall out all the time, it's an imperfect world..." Okay, maybe that doesn't fit exactly, but I like that quote....
 
That was some nice outside the box thinking there Jim. I am quite sure I would’ve mumbled something quite unprintable and grabbed the nearest crescent wrench and cranked it back! Haha! :laugh2:

Oops.... One Step Backwards
My wife keeps tellin' me I shouldn't include my screw-ups in this thread. I disagree. You learn from your mistakes. If some of you guys learn from mine so you don't make the same ones.... I'm happy.:)

I completely agree, every time I make a goof, I put it out there ,to hopefully save some other poor slob from making the same mistake. Think of it as a public service! Haha!
 
....mumbled something quite unprintable and grabbed the nearest crescent wrench and cranked it back...
Yeah... that was my first inclination.... but the thought of chewing up that fresh, shiny black paint almost brought me to tears.. :(
 
Rear Wheel Installed.
Finally. Fresh paint and polish all around. DIY disk re-surface. New sprocket, new hardware....
New to me axle (thanks Gary).

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Methinks it's time to get back to the engine.
 
Wow Jim, Looks better than brand new!. Nice work man.

Methinks it's time to get back to the engine.

Hope you post lot's of pics and instructions :)
Will be following you in a month or so when things warm up a little more.

Can't wait to see the finished project!
 
Jim you did a bang up job with that rear wheel. It looks BETTER than new! Also, what was your method for resurfacing your brake disc? The finish looks like it was machined. I’m going to venture a guess that your Atlas was involved yes?
 
Also, what was your method for resurfacing your brake disc? The finish looks like it was machined. I’m going to venture a guess that your Atlas was involved yes?
Thanks Bob. Actually, I just used Roloc disks like I did on the front disk. They were already in pretty good shape.

I'm gonna put a general disclaimer in here.... Grinding on your brake disks can cause a trip to your local machine shop to get em done properly if you don't have a good "feel" for Rolocs and die grinders.
 
Well they turned out beautifully! My usual method is a soft wheel 4” grinder. I try to have a soft touch with it, but yours looks nicer!
 
My usual method is a soft wheel 4” grinder. I try to have a soft touch with it
Those soft wheels work great Bob. I've done em that way before. Since I'm goin' for the "restoration" look as much as possible, I just went the extra step and used Roloc scotch-Brites after after the Roloc sanding disk for a more even texture.
Of course, after a thousand miles they'll look used again...;)
 
JimD54, could I trouble you for a few quick photos and measurements? Specifically, the rear master cylinder mounting on the frame. I'm planning on converting my '82 HS to rear disc using factory parts. I just need to know where to weld the mounts, etc..

And looking absolutely fantastic!!

also Jim D. :)
 
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