question about braided brake lines

bluesman650

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Hello,
I have 1975 xs650b and I want to replace the front rubber lines with braided lines. I see many post recommending one piece lines. Am I correct in assuming that this pertains to later models with the brake light switch on the MC? If I run from the MC to the caliper I would be by-passing the brake light switch. Should I run one line from MC to the junction and one from the junction to the caliper? Also any recommendations for a supplier?
Thank you,
 
Okay. So if you're looking for braided line, you don't care about a 100 point restoration. Good. Just remember there are different diameter braided lines. There are threads here with recommendations for different applications. And it would be simple to replace that brake switch with a banjo bolt type. That'll keep everything one-piece and insure all your braking force is going to the caliper. Good luck. I don't call my '75 "The Basket Case" for nothin'.....
 
Just remember, if you bypass the brake switch the rear brake light doesn't warn those behind you that you are stopping o_O.........

Mailman. 77 and later had the brake switch at the lever so a one piece braided line bypassing the banjo bolt doesn't affect the brake light..........those links arn't working for me
 
74-76 Have to have special Brake lines with the right sized ends to accommodate, or eliminate, the metal part of the original brake lines................there was a member on here making these special SS braided lines but he has since stopped making them.

Be real careful on taking advice and just buying any one piece braided line.........

Do some more research if you don't believe me...........

Here is a thread about the 74-76 caliper and Braided lines. Post #11 is the guy i mentioned who used t make them. My be some solutions in here.
http://www.xs650.com/threads/question-74-xs650-front-brake-hose-banjo-bolt.12105/#post-500725
 
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74-76 Have to have special Brake lines with the right sized ends to accommodate, or eliminate, the metal part of the original brake lines.................

Sorry, I didn’t realize the difference. That was what I used on my ‘77 and have been happy with it.
It pays to do your research . Thanks Skull.

Btw, I just tried all those links and they all worked? o_O
 
Depending on what MC you are using you need to pay attention to the orientation of the banjo fittings. That is why I like the ones Mike's sells because you can orientate the ends whichever way works best.
 
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Mailman. 77 and later had the brake switch at the lever so a one piece braided line bypassing the banjo bolt doesn't affect the brake light..........those links arn't working for me[/QUOTE]
Thank's, that's what I thought. can I just install braided lines from the MC to the junction then from there ro the caliper?
 
Yes, you can use 2 lines but it will probably end up costing a bit more than just a single line. For the lower line, some leave the steel pipe, some eliminate it and run the new line right to the caliper. But there can be clearance issues fitting the new fatter line in between the fender and fork. Personally, I would leave the steel pipe and just connect to it. The reason for replacing the lines is they go soft and swell when using, giving a spongy feel at the lever. The steel pipe won't do that so there's really no reason to replace it.
 
OK, thank's. That's what I was thinking of doing. I'm going to rebuild the caliper and MC but I've seen on some older post that the kits for the MC are NLA. I confess I haven't done a search yet. I've got a couple of old calipers and MC lying around that I am attempting to get apart and rebuilding them so I don't have to much down time.
 
As with carbs, about 99% of a "rebuild" is just a thorough cleaning of all the parts. You may be able to re-use most everything including the seals. If the MC or caliper in question wasn't leaking to begin with, there's a good chance of that.
 
I'm having some issues with some brake drag. Neither the caliper or the MC that's on the bike are leaking. Also does anyone offer braided lines as direct replacement of the rubber? Or do they have to be custom built?
 
I think 3M at 650Central can set you up with the proper lines. After all, his sister business is Vintage Brake. Dragging brakes are a good sign the caliper needs a cleaning. The seal grooves inside get filled up with dried up brake fluid "crust" over time and that eventually pushes the seal ring out tighter on the piston. Sticking, dragging brakes are the result.
 
Once again thank you for your quick reply! I have some more info. I was just in the barn checking things out on the bike. I removed the MC cap and squeezed the lever and brake fluid shot straight up. Another symptom of a sticking caliper?
 
Possibly, but it could also be somewhat normal. When you squeeze the lever on a closed system, it pressurizes the brake fluid and that pushes the caliper pistons out. With the top off, the system is open so the pressure would most likely seek that opening. Pull the lever quickly and you probably will see a little "fountain" of fluid. When you hand bleed the brakes with the MC top off, you pump the lever slowly to avoid that.
 
Once you are at this point as 5t has said a full strip down and clean up of both master cyclinder and caliper is really the hot tip, and nearly every time the FASTEST way back to brakes you can count on. Brake repair shortcuts always end up being the long way around.
 
I got my braided lines from here http://www.apexbrakes.com/custom.asp . Very reasonable prices, ship fast, and you can get any length you need up to 60"
What gggGary said. Trust us on this. Also, DO NOT order the MC kit from Mikes. They suck.
Well I am planning to service the MC and caliper but these are the original hoses so figured they probably need replacing so I'm just checking what the best route to go. I don't think Mike's even shows a kit for the old style MC and 650Central wants 87.00 for their kits. So can I just take them apart and clean them up if they aren't leaking?
 
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