Bike died, too much voltage?

Robert Dell Aquila

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Hi so I finally got my bike charging after 4 months of trial and error. Installed a new Electro Sports 350reg/rec. The bike charges, however the voltage is high. At idle the voltage would range between 13-14V and when revved the voltage would go up to 15.9V. I decided to ride it a couple of blocks to a friends house and the bike stalled at a light. I pushed it to the side of the road and kicked it over, road one block and the bike stalled again. Kicked it over a second time and the bike started to misfire a little out of the exhaust. Had to push it home. Initially I thought that the high voltage friend something on the bike but all the lights turn on and the battery was at 12.5V when I checked it at home. Now the bike wont start but all the lights and battery seems to be fine. Any suggestions?
 
What ignition? Sounds an awful lot like you don't have voltage REGULATOR function just full alternator output full time. That's gonna cost you, and it may have already.
 
Here's a quote from the thread Robert started yesterday 'bout his charging problem...
No fuse box everything is just ghetto rigged from the previous owner. I did look into the ignition connector block however and saw some corrosion in the probes. I'll trying cleaning those and see if that helps.
At this point it could be anything....
 
What ignition? Sounds an awful lot like you don't have voltage REGULATOR function just full alternator output full time. That's gonna cost you, and it may have already.
Points, not sure what type though. My points looks different then my buddys 650. But yea I got excited and jumped the gun. Dident think riding a few blocks would do anything.
 

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Yes, your points set-up isn't right. The bottom points set should be mounted on a smaller separate half plate on top of the main backing plate. That allows you to adjust that cylinder's timing separately and independently from the upper points set. It looks like your lower points set is also mounted directly to the main backing plate, just like the top set. You won't be able to individually adjust each cylinder's timing that way.
 
Yes, your points set-up isn't right. The bottom points set should be mounted on a smaller separate half plate on top of the main backing plate. That allows you to adjust that cylinder's timing separately and independently from the upper points set. It looks like your lower points set is also mounted directly to the main backing plate, just like the top set. You won't be able to individually adjust each cylinder's timing that way.
Ok I'm not really sure how to do these adjustments but I'm sure I can find out on this forum. Do you think this is the reason I stalled out? Also do the points have anything to do with the voltage spike I'm getting or is that a seperate entity?
 
I don't think the points would cause a voltage spike but improperly set points and timing could certainly cause the stalling out. Some think exactly set points gaps and ignition timing aren't that important. I disagree. I think if you want the bike to run as good as it possibly can, you need these things set dead nuts.
 
I don't think the points would cause a voltage spike but improperly set points and timing could certainly cause the stalling out. Some think exactly set points gaps and ignition timing aren't that important. I disagree. I think if you want the bike to run as good as it possibly can, you need these things set dead nuts.
Alright, my buddy has a timing light and has done the points on his bike. I'll give it a shot and see what happens. Thanks for the input, appreciate it.
 
The problem you will most likely run into is that you won't be able to exactly set the timing on both cylinders. You'll do one OK but when you check the other, if it's off and you move the main backing plate again to fix it, that will throw the 1st set off in the process. Some old bikes actually came from the factory like this (the Honda CB350 comes to mind) and it is a piss-poor design/set-up. The only way to get the correct timing on both cylinders is to fool with the points gaps.
 
I didn't even think of that bottom set of points different location changing it's firing point but you guys are right. It would change it big time. Must be a re-phase. I still don't see any way to adjust each points set's (cylinder's) timing independently.
 
Only way would be to get the dwell identical on each set of points. Then set the timing. If they didn't match figure out the total difference. Time it to the mid point with the single plate and then tweak the individual dwells. If the plate was modified perfectly it could work pretty well, if not could be a PITA. Not something for the faint of heart or someone with little experience with point systems.
 
Mentioned more than once in threads and a PM about posting as much information about the bike as possible to help us when identifying problems..........Just not taking it on board........i don't know why your not????
 
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