Ding Ding Ding! We have a winner! Jim you called it right on. I went out to my garage this morning determined to figure this out. I took my one good leg back apart and started swapping parts back and forth and it quickly became apparent that my fork tube is just fine.
Phew! :geek:
Then I started really looking at the lower leg that doesn’t work. That’s when I saw it. Matching bite marks on both sides of the leg, where some yahoo clamped it in a vise and ovaled the leg.
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You can even see , in the right light, how it looks kinda flattened . That’s right where the tube is binding. Someone definately had these forks apart , that explains some of the missing parts and assembly issues.
So now I know the only problem is that lower leg. Then it hits me like a ton of bricks. Duh!
When I needed a replacement right side leg, I bought a complete set of forks so started rummaging around and found it. I tried sliding the tube in and it fits and works perfectly!
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It’s rough and pitted and is missing a stud, but the eBay wrecker I bought the forks from included one with the sale.
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It needs a good polishing but hey, that’s right up my alley! I’ll probably have to buy new seals, I doubt I can remove it from my bent leg without destroying it, but hey, seals are cheap! :cheers:
 
Way to go Bob !!! Glad it worked out with minimal costs. Just goes to show it pays to hang on to all those extra parts!

Thanks Willis! Tonight I’ll order some new seals and I’m back in business!

Dodged one there Bob - congrats!

....all that and decent weather too.

Hmmmm.....
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Thanks Pete, and by the way, I know you know the way to Arizona, C’mon down!

More garage art.....already polished....

Brilliant! I like the way you think! And just because you like my memes,
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Worked on my replacement leg today. It was really pitted and corroded. Hit it with the blue Dico wheel first.
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Then progressively, 400 grit, 800 grit, 1500 grit wet sand paper. Here’s the before and after, still some battle scars, but they’re staying.
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Ready for buffing. Maybe tomorrow. I’ll be back in business in no time!
 
Roloc discs would take those bad nicks and gouges right off. But you have to learn to be careful about that, lol. It's easy to remove lots of aluminum. I don't go any rougher than the medium discs.

Yeah, I need to get into the Roloc’s. I don’t own any, but they look to be very useful. I could’ve used them when I was rebuilding my engine.
 
My local welding shop or auto paint store has them or Harbor Frt. Not sure of the quality from Harbor Frt.
 
I bought my 1st Roloc discs and holder from an auto parts store. They were the original 3M brand so were a bit expensive. I now shop eBay for them where you can usually find them for about half the price. I use the 1" and 2" sizes. Anything larger and the die grinder struggles to spin it. I have all the grits but for aluminum you'll want super fine (gray), fine (blue), and medium (maroon). The coarse (brown) is too coarse for aluminum work but I do use them often for smoothing steel.

You can find cheaper off brands for pretty much all the grits except the super fine gray ones. I've only run across those from 3M. The off brands work OK but the actual 3M discs work best.
 
Worked on my replacement leg today. It was really pitted and corroded. Hit it with the blue Dico wheel first.
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Then progressively, 400 grit, 800 grit, 1500 grit wet sand paper. Here’s the before and after, still some battle scars, but they’re staying.
View attachment 130737

Ready for buffing. Maybe tomorrow. I’ll be back in business in no time!
I don’t want to teach anyone how to suck eggs but, the deep scratches are easily removed with a smooth file, then some 400 grit and so on. Generally I use an electric detail sander with 240 grit after the 400, then onto the wet and dry. Loving the story so far, looking forward to the big day.
 
One more little thing I did today, I got my stock coils out because I wanted to test them. They look like new and have zero corrosion , so I thought I might be able to get away with using them. I did hear the bike run after all , before I bought it. How bad could they be? My results just left me confused.

The first thing I did was to shine up all the connections, even though they all looked very clean.
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Then I ran through all the recommended tests using my ohm meter.
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The readings for the primary part of the coil ( wire to wire ) were a little bit high at 4.2 ohms and 4.4 ohms ( should be 3.9 ) not too bad. Then I tested the secondary ( from the orange female bullet connector to the core of the coil ) Again one coil tested a little high 10.5K ohms ( should be 8K ), but the other , I couldn’t get any reading at all. Nothing. But the bike was running and not missing. I’m unsure if the coil is bad or not.

Here’s my dilemma. I had hoped to get the bike running with the bone stock ignition. I thought I’d live with it for a while to see if I wanted to keep it stock. To buy a pair of coils , I’m looking at nearly $60. I could get into a complete electronic ignition for $200. I gotta think about this.
 
Here's a coil on Ebay for 12 bucks... CM11-50 same as yours.

Thanks Jim,
I hadn’t really considered a used part. I’m considering all options now. I know that when you add a Pamco , you have to upgrade the coil to one like this or equivalent.
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Can a coil such as that be used to run a stock ignition?
 
The dual output such as the EMGO you put up there is for a crankshaft triggered iggy. Fires both plugs each revolution. Your points system needs a single output coil.
Think of it this way... your XS2 has two independent iggy systems, one for each cylinder. Each system requires it's own coil.
 
The dual output such as the EMGO you put up there is for a crankshaft triggered iggy. Fires both plugs each revolution. Your points system needs a single output coil.

Ok, I thought there was something different. At least I know what my options are now. Thanks.
 
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