Those 'justers are pretty!
Thanks for the update.
Thanks for the update.
That's the spirit.Last weekend 1000 cc Nortons were finishing at least the length of the start finish straight ahead of us.
I returned to this bike with new energy.
Since lean angle isn't a problem.... you could hang something the size of a VW distributor off the end of the crank. Direct drive would give you 4 pops at 90deg's per rotation. Imagine that exhaust note. You'd think you'd died and gone to heavan...but the ignition would be another problem that would need to be sorted.
That's gonna be true no matter the timing. I don't envy you that task...Trueing the crank will be an act in itself.
This outriigger bearing - how far out will it be? About 75 mm or 100mm away from the RH case?The output shaft will be extended and supported by an outrigger bearing. A simple means to mount and change the front sprocket needs to be devised.
I have been able to put some time into the 700 lately so a small update.
Decided to go straight to O rings to seal the heads and made a cutter to fit in the boring head. It works but chatters badly so will cut the grooves by hand, luckily there is only four to do.
Started sorting through the motor top end trying to match heads and work out what needs to be repaired. They are in a sorry state but are repairable. If worse comes to worse I don’t think it would be that hard to make a head.
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Used a DTI and the mill DRO to measure the spark plug heights in the heads and how much to remove from the cylinders and it worked out really easy to do. Milled the spark plug holes of the heads in pairs to the same height also helicoiled a stripped spark plug hole.
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Now that the heads are in pairs I used a burette to measure each heads volume to let us know what we are starting with. This will need to be adjusted. From what I understand you set the squish then machine the combustion bowl to get the CR you want.
By using the measuring set up in the lathe the head can be left chucked up and if further cuts are needed it’s already to go. I still need to make a bowl radius cutter but luckily won’t need it for some time.
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Got some 38mm tubing bent at the local exhaust centre for the rear swing arm, normally exhaust tube benders make horrible distorted bends but these guys’ race cars and have a proper bender for doing the roll cages in their cars.
Also started making the swing arm pivot bolt and the pivot mounts. I will post some photos when it is tacked together. Once that’s done I can start on the outrigger rear shock mounts.
I always did that to my RD's... mighta' just been wishful thinking, but it always seemed to help...I have port matched the cases to the barrels sorry lost the photos of this. I have read there is little or no gain from doing this but as I could not find anyone who said it was bad I decided to do it
Yes that would be a very bad day at the track if people can see your crank.However you wont see them when its on the track (hopefully).