What kind of coil you running there Bush?
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Bushyboy's build thread
- Thread starter Bushyeyed1
- Start date
Thanks guys!! 
I swear I am so close to being done, but its one step forward two steps back lately. I hope the banjo bolts I ordered comes in tomorrow so I can at least put the fuel tank back on and fire it up. Last thing to get it on the road is fabricating a mount for the rear led turn signals where I want them. Everything else after that will be minor details and maintenance. For days a warm front has come in and everyone in this part of North Carolina is riding their bike and yes I am jealous. The cool air is already blowing so time to put back on the jacket, but I promise this baby is gonna be road ready by spring. Pictures to come of course after that.
So what if it gets 14.6 volts rev'd to 2300 rpm but drains voltage at idle.
At least I have the bike look finished. Didn't make it 5 miles down the road and bike cut out again. Calling on the experts again on this one. One thing I noticed if I rev high I was able to make it home. New coil, wires, plugs, battery, brushes already installed. Did the slap test with my feeler gauge and it barely moves when ignition was turned on hardly slapping the case. Should I get mikes xs cdi kit (https://www.mikesxs.net/yamaha-xs650-basic-standard-ignition-kit-xscharge-pma-package.html#) minus the coil and associated parts? Hugh's has one too, but it's twice the cost. Or could it be my CDI unit going out?
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So I feel like I can troubleshoot my charging/ignition issues and possibly fix it relatively cheap. On the other hand it could need multiple parts and repairs or something else break later on with my luck. So I'm at a crossroads on upgrading to a new pma and ignition system? If I do go pma then shod I use points or cdi? What are your thoughts?
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Nice bike Bushy! you should be checking out the charging troubleshooting guide could be something simple. You should check out DIY regulator / rectifier a bunch of guys and building them and running them me included. Mailman has just recently wired it up on his XS2.
http://xs650temp.proboards.com/thread/3461.
http://xs650temp.proboards.com/thread/3461.
@Superjet I have been troubleshooting the issue both with forum info and the manual. I don't think it is the rectifier I am having trouble with, but I believe it is either the rotor or stator ignition coil at this point. Rotor did read 4.9 ohms on my multimeter and if I subtract my leads it's even lower. Did the slap test as well even though battery was low and it's at least energized. I read all the wires in the system and that is what lead me to change the ignition coil last time. I can buy a new rotor for $80 and see if that fixes the problem, but that's only a third of the price I can do a pma setup.
I purchased a new rotor and died within 100kms. Find a good used one and did someone mention to you about the magnet on the rotor? If weak, it will break up the bike idle and revs. Check out poor magnet on rotor and could be your source of problem. Search for the PMA fails too while you are at it. There have been plenty of problems with those too.
Yep read about the magnet trick too, but like I said I found a new rotor for $80 so rather just throw that in if needed. I'm going to start from ground zero again today as if I hadn't checked anything. I will look into pma fails too. I guess my thinking with pma is that I no longer will have to rely on the battery.
If you go PMA since you are running stock crank e-ignition you will need to add another source of ignition to cam activated $$$ (Boyer or Pamco from Pete) These will require a constant source of power and would be wise to have a battery, small one at least.
If you're getting 14.6v charging output when revved, it appears your stator and rotor are working, reg and rec too. When you said you're draining voltage at idle, just how low was it reading? As I mentioned above, down into the low 11's can be normal on some of these with all the lights on. If it gets too low that could mess with ignition operation.
If you better describe the manner in which the bike died, that may help us trouble shoot the issue better. Did the bike cut out at speed while driving down the road or when you came to a stop at idle? Was it a quick cut out like you turned the key off or did it slowly bog down and die? Was there any breaking up and stumbling first?
If you better describe the manner in which the bike died, that may help us trouble shoot the issue better. Did the bike cut out at speed while driving down the road or when you came to a stop at idle? Was it a quick cut out like you turned the key off or did it slowly bog down and die? Was there any breaking up and stumbling first?
So the voltage at idle was draining the battery and got down around 5 volts before I cut it off. Even after the ride it never fully charges my battery like it used to. So it is always around 11.5 volts when I turn it on and isn't enough for the starter to engage more then once. So my issue occurs once the bike warms up usually a mile or two down the road. It made it 5 miles the other day, but it was around 30 degrees F. I will be in at least 4th gear and around 3500-4000 rpm. It stumbles then dies as if there is no ignition; regardless if I pull in clutch, down shift to neutral, rev the throttle, or say fuck a hundred times. It then is very hard to start seems almost like I have to charge it kick starting it a hundred times. I peeked in the cylinder and some residual gas that didn't burn of course since the ignition source cut out. I checked my top dead center was line up correctly as well while I was at it. Today when I go home I plan on starting back over from scratch. I think there was one resistance check that said replace stator but can't remember. Also yesterday the resistance for the rotor was lower then the 5 ohm range it requires. I am also going to get a better look at the wire bundle by the sprocket and make sure its not chaffing or grounding. The issue isn't intermittent it happens under the same conditions; warm, over 4th gear and around 3500-4000 rpm.
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Color me impressed that the TCI still worked down at 5V...
It's an even bet that your Iggy system is fine. Concentrate on one thing at a time. First thing you absolutely gotta do is get your charging sorted. New battery? Cleaned all connections and grounds? On board voltmeter? If you don't you really need to install one. You said rotor was 4.9 ohms. That's within spec. You also said it put out over 14V revved. That's good. Sounds like either a bad battery or bad connection to (or ground from) the battery.
Are you sure your battery is good? Sounds like even though a charge is being put into it, it's not taking it or holding it. Yes, the ignition probably would quit if the battery voltage got as low as 5 or 6 volts, at lower RPMs anyway. High RPMs with a high charging output would probably keep it running, running off the alternator output.
Start filling in your "signature." Stuff like carbs.... Iggy used.... type of reg/rec..... all the stuff we need to help you at a glance.
I would like to say the battery is good since I just bought it when I got the bike.
