Bushyboy's build thread

[Bushyeyed1]

I'm thinking your original rotor may still be good and is probably better than one of those cheap Chinese repops.

I am sure it is still good but I just wanted to change it since its closer to the lower side of resistance. I guess I will let you know how long the cheap one last anyhow. If I get it and for some reason the resistance equates the same then I'll use the old one. May even just rewind the rotor if I'm feeling like learning something new.

So the pickup coil seems good on the old stator as far as it passing is resistance check, but is there any reason to attempt removing it? Also is there any reason to keep the old stator?

 

[5twins]

Never throw any old motorcycle parts away, lol. Sure as shit you'll need it about a week later.

 

[650Skull]

Got a link to the rotor supplier?

 

[Bushyeyed1]

https://rover.ebay.com/rover/0/0/0?mpre=https://www.ebay.com/ulk/itm/371594956267

 

[Superjet]

I bought one off them and lasted a few hundred kms. They refunded me when I proved to them it was toast. Yours may work fine....but for how long. JC

 

[650Skull]

https://www.ebay.com/itm/CIPA-2-5-x...=item58f864c638:g:VFsAAOSw44BYCAiY:rk:38:pf:0

Any one who uses pics like these to sell products in this day and age is not to be taken seriously IMO.

 

[5twins]

I think that's one of those rotors with no timing mark on it. There's really no excuse for that.

 

[Superjet]

I think that's one of those rotors with no timing mark on it. There's really no excuse for that.

It does have one, but not a good one (south east corner).


The problem with mine is was the varnish melted and wiring touched the rotor halves. On the bike gave a tolerable resistance, but off the bike was close to 1 ohm. You can see my frustration here. Put the OEM with a lower resistance and charging good. They refunded me and let me keep it. I am keeping it in case it can be rebuilt.
http://www.xs650.com/threads/well-that-didnt-last-long.52169/page-3

 

[Bushyeyed1]

@Superjet thanks for the heads up. That is one of those things wish I would have known before I paid for it. Actually I think I am going to return it since in their policy they accept them.

 

[Superjet]

@Superjet thanks for the heads up. That is one of those things wish I would have known before I paid for it. Actually I think I am going to return it since in their policy they accept them.

I did mention it to you...post #93...regardless some have had luck with some of the Chinese built ones, some not so much. I have got a complete & tested rotor and stator for replacement if ever my current one fails.

 

[Bushyeyed1]

Dang I am at a loss now. Turn ignition switch on get neutral light that is it no other electronics. Go about half way between off and on get tail light, and horn seems to be brake light or just brightens tail light; also neutral goes out. 11.6 volts on battery. All wires seemed to be in correct locations turn signals do no work either. Rotor and stator are installed.

 

[Bushyeyed1]

http://www.xs650.com/threads/ignition-switch-overhaul.46712/

Maybe I'll give this a shot. More tearing stuff apart again yah! Evening thinking that maybe this was the part failing since I would turn it off and back on during my restart attempts after my bike died.

 

[5twins]

Yes, go through the switch. Sometimes the contacts on the contact plate are all corroded, sometimes even burnt and/or damaged.

 

[Bushyeyed1]

Checked the switch wasn't the issue. I even just held contacts as to make continuity and still same results checked all the red and brown wires and got power throughout system. Now I'm looking through the turn signal switch/horn/headlight wires. What is weird to me is that I had 11.6 volts and at one point it drained the battery almost 3 volts in a few seconds.

 

[Bushyeyed1]

I have no idea what I did but now it is working after I took the bike almost down the frame. I will reconfigure it and look for a short.

 

[Bushyeyed1]

Spoke too soon it appears back to not working. And I can't duplicate it.

 

[Bushyeyed1]

Ok finally found it in the wire bundle under the gas tank. I can move it and make it go intemittant between working and not working.

 

[Superjet]

You narrowed it down.....now go in for the kill!!! Lol

 

[Bushyeyed1]

I put it back together and so far so good. At idle it was getting a constant 12 V and at 2000 rpm 14.6 v. All electrical appears to be working. It is cold and rainy so test ride to come another day. I am gonna adjust valves before I ride to because an ever so slight ping was heard. I did make sure top dead center lines up but didn't think it's necessary to put a timing light to it.

 

[Jim]

I did make sure top dead center lines up but didn't think it's necessary to put a timing light to it.

You replaced the stator... which means also the crank sensor. I'd definitely recommend checking the timing. These bikes have a history of holing pistons if the timing is advanced. A little work now could save a lot of work and money later.