14.2 to 14.5V is what you normally see when revved. 13.9's a little low but acceptable. I'd let it be.
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Bushyboy's build thread
- Thread starter Bushyeyed1
- Start date
Have you checked the condition of the starter cables? If they are in poor shape may have somrthing to do with it. I know on my other bike, I have upgraded to a larger wire set and starts easier. Something to check out.
72 degrees today so went for a nice long ride. I am digging the sound of the exhaust. Gonna hate swapping it out for one with mufflers. Need to finish the tank emblems now. Glad that the bike is able to make it down the road now.
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Pretty awesome riding the bike to work today. The weather was a little cool this am, but still my long sleeve was enough to keep me warm. Already got some parts to upgrade the front brake system on the way. Going to keep oem caliper and the rotor disc is still good, but a new master cylinder, braided brake lines, brake pads, and a caliper rebuild kit should make the brakes a little better. Also got a used 18" rear rim coming in from California. Guess when I take the rear wheel off I'll check the rear brake pads.
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Are we ever really done with our 650? lol. I don't recall seeing you do any handling upgrades here. Steering head bearings usually need replacing, better rear shocks really help, Minton Mods in the forks, TX750 swingarm swap, that all should keep you busy for a bit, lol.
True 5twins always a project to be done. I guess maybe I should probably spend a few hours with my wife, lol. She is jealous of my mistress who lives in my shed. I may end up making this jt1 a mini me of the xs650 once I get it running.
Well away from home once again as my parts wait to be installed. I should have everything I need to rebuild my front brake system. Also I got a 18" rear rim and tire I plan on throwing on the back. If anyone wants me to hold the 16" for them let me know. I am anticipating actually starting up my JT1 mini enduro as well as working on the xs650. I've been tempted to buy a bike for cheap while I am up north. I have been eyeing a 78' Kawaski KZ650, but the old lady said no so I had to stand down.
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LiveSlowDieWhenever
probably broke down. Just call me greasy.
*disclaimer, I almost never know what I’m talking about* but to the effect of your starter issues, mine is the same way and I’ve been reading until the time comes to broach the issue. Is the starter motor slow to turn over? Tried bypassing the relay with a jump from battery? If all connections check out, maybe oil -filled starter motor or bad brushes? I haven’t pulled mine yet, but all elec. issues check out so I’m gonna expecting a VERY well lubricated motor.. anyway, beautiful bike!
Yeah I am suspecting the starter motor brushes or the oil filled scenerio. I have checked everything else and I am going to wait till an oil change is needed before I pull the starter motor.
LiveSlowDieWhenever
probably broke down. Just call me greasy.
Nice. I won’t be far behind. Maybe your bike has similar symptoms, even fresh off of the charger, starter motor is very sluggish, but after warming up (and assumingly softening up all of the sludge inside) it turns right over
I am still away from the shed until May is why there hasn't been any new updates on the build. My wife is wondering what all the packages I have received in the mail are since I've been gone . I told her not to look in them, because they are her Bday presents and I don't want to spoil the surprise.
Installed an 18” rear rim, braided brake lines, new front brake master cylinder, and painted caliper. The brake pads I purchase said they were for my xs650g but the didn’t fit. The old ones are still good though. And I had no need for the caliper rebuild kit. I got my 2 into 1 exhaust in mail so I’ll try and get that installed after I get the front brakes and switch working.
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Been bouncing back and forth trying to get a lean condition out idle once hot. I went up a size on pilot jet and two on main jet. I found the mix at idle but once the bike got hot it was lean. I purchased another carb sync even though I measured the slides and felt both sides of exhaust. The sync was dead on, but good to see it on a gauge. Started to give up and strip everything off to take off the carb when I decided to check the plugs. They both had a good color but under one side the bolt was lose. Tightened that back down and installed one size smaller on the air jet. It seems to be running well as of now. I will know for sure tomorrow when I go to work.
Usually the opposite occurs, gets richer when hot.
I seem to fuzzily recall a similar posting a few years ago, traced to an air leak that opened up as it got hotter...
Got the high idle lean when hot worked out. I swapped out the after market pilot air fuel mix screw for the old stock ones, because they appeared to have more of a taper. Not sure if that was the fix or something else when I took the top end of the carb apart. Now time to fine tune the top range of the 2 into 1. I wish the carbs were easier to put back in and out.
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Had a g-wiz moment while dreading removing the carb again to get to the slides and needle. Maybe it’s all ready a method most of you use and I’m slow to hop on the band wagon. Instead of removing the whole carb i only took off gas tank and air box sides. With these parts off I was able to remove all hardware off the top of the carbs. The only issue I could see is the left side rear right screw. I used a offset ratchet since it was a little under the frame at an angle. So I was able to drill out slides and change the needles in a matter of minutes. I was able to hold the slides with my finger through the air box while setting the diagrams in place to ensure air seal. Hope this helps someone else make quick changes. I already know I can drop the float bowls without removing carbs, but didn’t realize the top was that easy.
