It's past time to start XS2 Resurrection

:thumbsup: in the mean time. Could we get a couple good pics of those Michelins ?
Rear size ?
Thx, -R
Surfing the web site for pics is frustrating :agree:
 
Could we get a couple good pics of those Michelins ?
Not Michelins. Continental GOs
100/90 19 front
120/90 18 rear
Rear just fits.
90 miles on them. So far they feel great.
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They replaced the Blitz. Used to run them on my BMW. I just put a set of Gos on it too. They feel just as good as the Blitz did.
 
This ignition problem is a real head scratcher. I just installed the same ignition. I hope you get it worked out soon.
Tires look nice by the way. I’m running modern Michelin’s on my 77D and love the way they handle. I opted for the classic tread pattern on my XS2 just for the sake of staying true to the era, hopefully I won’t regret that, but it’s just gonna be a neighborhood cruiser.
 
Sent an e-mail to PAMCO's help address. I guess now I wait to hear from someone. I added a link to this thread. Thought that would be easier than typing in everything I have checked.
 
Yesterday sent e-mail to PAMCO help address. help@yamahaxs650.com No response yet. This morning sent sent one to his e-mail address. Pete@yamahaxs650.com. Also sent him a PM here Wednesday.
I know Pete has been a good member here and a great asset to the forum. I'm sure he's a busy man so I'll hold my water and wait.
In the mean time I've been thinking of another couple of tests to try. It may get warm enough today to try them.
 
The only sure-fire test I can think of is to hang a scope on the grounding line between the coil and the Pamco, and watch the trace, like in post #49 here.
I do not have a scope. What I am going to try is a dwell meter. Comparing how it reads running verses when it won't may tell me something.
Also going the check voltage going into coil and out when it acts up. If no spark and it has 12 volts on both sides of coil PAMCO has to be the problem. If 12 volts going in and 0 coming out I will to need to series in an ammeter to see if coil is open causing the 0 volts or the PAMCO is taking it to 0.
 
Got the extension wires add to bike. Red is to power to the PAMCO and coil, black is to same ground wire the PAMCO is using.
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Started bike to get base line readings. Idling dwell reads 18 above idle it goes and stays at 15. 15 on the 8 cylinder scale would be 60 for a 2 cylinder engine. I believe I read somewhere here that Pete said 60 is what the dwell should be. Volt meter was .2 less than battery.
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Also had a amp clamp on wire going to coil/PAMCO. 1.31 amps.
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Couple of things with bike off dwell meter all the way to left.
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Bike first turned on needle goes all the way to the right. I checked voltage coming out of coil, read same as voltage going in. Which means the PAMCO is not taking the coil to ground. Nice feature, won't overheat coil if key is on but the bike has not been started. Did a small test, I ran the bike out of gas. When it died the dwell meter went to the left and voltage coming out of coil was 0. PAMCO putting coil to ground. So if you had bike idling and walk away and it died you could cook the coil if you don't turn ign/kill switch off.
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Removed test equipment and went for a ride. Put 15 miles on it, she ran like a champ. Wasn't really surprised as it's 15 degrees cooler today than the last time I rode it. The problem is temp related. Didn't give up. Brought it back into shop, hooked up test equipment plus timing light. Left it idle.
Took about 10 minuets and idle started breaking up. Held it at a fast idle, when it would start missing dwell would swing to the right. Timing light also would skip when it missed. Voltage going to PAMCO/coil stayed steady. A few minuets of this and it quit completely. Restart run a minuet and die. After 5 or 6 restarting and dying it would not start. 12 volts going into coil/PAMCO12 volts coming out of coil, dwell meter rock solid to the left and no flash from the timing light. Removed point cover, blew some air on it to cool it off. Then it fired right up.Meters back to normal.
I can see no way the coil or wiring can be the problem. I can think of no other ways to test it with the equipment I have. Anyone have any ideas? May have to go to plan B or C.
 
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Voltage going to PAMCO/coil stayed steady.
I'd say that verifies good wiring.
Anyone have any ideas?
Only other thing I can think of is low resistance in the coil primary. Would pass more current to the Pamco... overheating it. If pri. resistance is what Pete calls for, and it don't drop when problem shows up, I'd say it's Pamco. Get it hot till it fails, disconnect one of your jumpers (quickly) and see what pri resistance. is.
 
I'd say that verifies good wiring.

Only other thing I can think of is low resistance in the coil primary. Would pass more current to the Pamco... overheating it. If pri. resistance is what Pete calls for, and it don't drop when problem shows up, I'd say it's Pamco. Get it hot till it fails, disconnect one of your jumpers (quickly) and see what pri resistance. is.
I think the ammeter only showing 1.3 amps rules out low resistance on the primary side of the coil. I have a 7.5 amp fuse in front of the coil/PAMCO. If it was a momentary short in the primary of the coil the fuse should blow.
 
I know coils can go bad. In the 20 years that I worked on cars I may have replaced a few 5 gallon buckets full of coils and a dump truck full of ignition modules.
 
I was thinkin' more a partial short... more current, just not enough to pop the fuse. Did current remain steady at 1.3A? Or did it climb when problem started?
 
I was thinkin' more a partial short... more current, just not enough to pop the fuse. Did current remain steady at 1.3A? Or did it climb when problem started?
Steady.
 
You do have point Jim. The fact that when I rode it without the point cover on the other day without any problems and what I found today just points to electronic problems. I suppose I could spend another $60 on a coil and see what happens. I'd rather not and I doubt that I will. I suppose I could try to borrow one from a Harley rider. I also know that sometimes you have to substitute parts with known good parts to get to the bottom of a problem.
 
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