New Build Thread - XS650 Swingarm Chop-Shakeybones

We have fun now! Detabbing and disassembling the rest for freshung bearings and bushings.
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Everything is looking good besides one area. I got a stress crack that will have to be addressed
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You gents think I can tig that or do you recommend cutting a new section and slugging it?
 
Looks like a freeze split.
Agreed. That means that water puddled in the cradle from one of Yamaha's shi!!y factory welds. Ideal would be to replace the whole cradle section. You could probable get away with just tapping it closed and Tigging it. If I did that, I'd probably drill a hole further up the tube, pour in some boiled linseed oil and plug the hole with a screw and sealant. That would slow way down the progression of any rust inside the cradle to a crawl.
Just added that to the list of items to check when buying an XS. :whistle:
 
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We have fun now! Detabbing and disassembling the rest for freshung bearings and bushings.View attachment 141566Everything is looking good besides one area. I got a stress crack that will have to be addressed View attachment 141567You gents think I can tig that or do you recommend cutting a new section and slugging it?

Hi shakeybones and welcome,
um, wassa "freshung bearing"?
And yeah, that's a freeze split for sure.
Do what Jim sez to fix it although I'm not sure about the welding the oil fill hole closed afterwards.
Seems to me that if the frame fills up with water again it's best to drill the oil fill hole at the frame's lowest point
and leave it open for the water to run out of.
 
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Seems to me that if the frame fills up with water again it's best to leave a hole for it to run out of.
'nother trick I learned from 4130 fuselages... with the frame upside down, pour a little (a tablespoon) of water in there before you weld it closed. As soon as it's closed, flip it upright. Water+hot metal= instant steam. Mark the welds where the steam escaped.... add more heat as required to fully evaporate the water, then reweld the bad welds you identified. Now she's sealed up tight.... proceed to the linseed....
 
Forks are in pretty damn good shape. The oil was gnarly and smelled like death. I will be doing a full breakdown of the forks with fresh seals, lowering bushings and new hardware. I will be polishing the lowers as well.
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Oh perfect! I was about to make some but if you already got em I may swing by tomorrow if that works for you. I made some for the later model forks but these are really different. Instead of taking tools I will prolly just bring my forks if that works for you?
 
Yours should be the late model (newer) style. Shoot a pic of the cap and put it up here.
 
I just clicked on that thread link you sent. That's the one I used last time and yup you are correct! I am.buying his bushings this time though. I made my own last time and it was ok but his has the set screw and the valve ports. They whole reason I got this build going was because it was bad forks that caused the wreck so I want to make sure these are top notch. Also I am planning in running. Tarozzi fork brace
 
I got a little ahead of myself...as I tend to do. The forks need to stay assembled until I finish the frame and mock up with a rear tire and lowered suspension so I know how much too drop the front. I will be working on the frame more tonight and should have quite a bit wrapped up --minus the actual tail section for the lower shock mount placement and seat location. I am leaving that piece up to a pre fab aftermarket from MCM--ships in 8 days. But, after I get a drop height determined I can pull apart the fork tubes and do that work. I am looking for a local guy to do vapor honing on my carb bodies but not having much luck. I may have to send them somewhere.
The motor has been done for months so not much to do there. I will just keep grinding along, literally, on frame work till its time appropriate for me to drop the forks.
OH! but I did decide a color scheme for the bike but we aren't going there just yet.:smoke:
 
Some mock up work today in the shop. Getting the right ride height. It looks like it will be a 3" fork drop and with the addition of the relocation of the shock mounts it works out to a 10.5" rear shock to give it the right ground clearance and to make the rear swing arm sit correctly
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After going to Jim's place with some fork assistance we decided that those forks were tougher than us and didnt wanna give up their insides. Luckily, Jim being the kinda guy he is, had another pair of forks. We swapped em out and broke em down pretty quick. I am gonna drop in the 2" lowering bushings and trim the springs. The lowers are outside in a paint remover both and will receive the full polish treatment. More pics to come.
And yes Jim...I was able to get those damn seals out!
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Hey Shakey! That’s a great story! Nice to hear about you and Jim working together to achieve success. That Jim’s a good guy! :)
 
I put em in a vice and wedged a piece of aluminum between the seal until I could get a pneumatic sheet metal nibble in there and cut em out:laugh:
 
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