Lookin' good Bob!
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Mailmans , 77D getting a makeover
- Thread starter Mailman
- Start date
Looking sweet! Chipping away a bit at a time. I was unaware Gary still had those o ring sets. Definitely going to need to pick up a set or two!
Thanks guys! Yeah I think I’m gonna like the new look!
"27,000 miles"? I would take compression numbers like that all day long! "Nasty"?
This is what "nasty" looks like after 9,300 miles!
(...why I call it "The Basketcase"
)
This is what "nasty" looks like after 9,300 miles!
(...why I call it "The Basketcase"
)
"27,000 miles"? I would take compression numbers like that all day long! "Nasty"?
View attachment 142213
This is what "nasty" looks like after 9,300 miles!
(...why I call it "The Basketcase"
Just a little leak!
Lookin' good buddy!
Thanks Jim!
Hey, Bob. Good compression numbers there.
Ready for anxiety, part deux?
I'd be curious to know how much cam retardation...
Oh sure 2M poke a stick at the OCD guy! Nice.
Cam retardation!! Oh man!
I assume you’re talking about cam chain stretch? Don’t be a cloud on my sunny day!
Ok, ok, I take it back!
Be thouest unjabbed!!!
Be thouest unjabbed!!!
Last edited:
Hey I was just kidding. Seriously you are questioning cam chain stretch? If I understand the procedure , you have to verify that the pistons are at TDC , then look to see where your timing marks are? Does that sound right?
I’m not really sure of the repercussions of timing chain stretch, relative to how you could tune to compensate for it.
I’m not really sure of the repercussions of timing chain stretch, relative to how you could tune to compensate for it.
Ooooooh, *now* you're interested?
Remember this?
http://www.xs650.com/threads/used-cam-chain-for-rebuild.54079/
Basically, you get the cam at *its* TDC, the overlapping valves at equal openings, or the right side cam pin pointing straight up. Then, take a pic of the rotor timing mark.
A procedure here, post #10.
http://www.xs650.com/threads/timing-troubles-and-identification-help.50700/#post-527582
Kawabunga's finding is at the bottom of post #16.
http://www.xs650.com/threads/timing-troubles-and-identification-help.50700/#post-527659
The rest of that thread is enlightening...
Remember this?
http://www.xs650.com/threads/used-cam-chain-for-rebuild.54079/
Basically, you get the cam at *its* TDC, the overlapping valves at equal openings, or the right side cam pin pointing straight up. Then, take a pic of the rotor timing mark.
A procedure here, post #10.
http://www.xs650.com/threads/timing-troubles-and-identification-help.50700/#post-527582
Kawabunga's finding is at the bottom of post #16.
http://www.xs650.com/threads/timing-troubles-and-identification-help.50700/#post-527659
The rest of that thread is enlightening...
For your valve cover o-rings, often you can just pop them out and flip them over. That presents a "new" unused side facing out and they may seal up better. I got new o-rings for mine when I was renovating it but tried the "flip" first. That was like 12 years ago and they're still sealing fine. Also, on the 3 hole covers, you can fit them any of 3 ways as they are symmetrical. Sometimes they seal up better one way than another. If you get a leaker, rotate it 120° and try that position.
Since you don't need them immediately, I would watch eBay for N.O.S. brushes. They come up all the time and can usually be found for the same price (or less) than the repops. I think the originals are better. Many times the repop brackets aren't right, a little too tall.
I'm surprised you haven't upgraded your type D tensioner to a type E w/ lock nut. That's something else I'd be watching eBay for. About the biggest issue you would have to deal with if your cam chain starts getting too stretched out would be running out of adjustment on your timing plate for the ignition.
Since you don't need them immediately, I would watch eBay for N.O.S. brushes. They come up all the time and can usually be found for the same price (or less) than the repops. I think the originals are better. Many times the repop brackets aren't right, a little too tall.
I'm surprised you haven't upgraded your type D tensioner to a type E w/ lock nut. That's something else I'd be watching eBay for. About the biggest issue you would have to deal with if your cam chain starts getting too stretched out would be running out of adjustment on your timing plate for the ignition.
Thanks 5T, those are some good tips. It’s funny you mentioned that type E adjuster, I was thinking about that yesterday as I was working on it. Also , good idea about the OEM brushes, I’ll put that on my radar!
Ok, I got a little more done today,
Got my top head stay mounts put back on, after having them off to re torque my head.
I had my carbs on and off several times fussing with fuel line routing and checking clearances. Then put them on for good , along with the air boxes and got everything buttoned up.
My bike had these crappy clear vinyl tubes that were being used as my breather tubes. I was looking at these things and thinking how much I didn’t like them, when I remembered I had bought some bulk black tubing when I did my XS2, so snip snip, I made some new ones, and got them installed.
Then I moved on to what I thought would be some really easy jobs. At least one was.....
This photo is for reference. You know those rubber dampers that mount in those holes in the front of the side covers? ( photo from my XS2). Those are factory, two of them from Partzilla with shipping is nearly $18 !!!
They’re just little rubber buttons! So I started looking for an alternative on EBay.
What I found are speaker parts, little rubber speaker feet. $5 and free shipping for a bag of them.
They are dimensionally perfect.
And here they are on my 77D.
Now here is my dilemma of the day. ( There always has to be one right? )
My new replacement side cover latch assemblies from Mikes XS. Photo shows the inner metal sleeve removed for installation.
Except, I cannot squeeze that sucker in there, no how, no way. The thing that looks like a rubber bushing feels like barely flexible plastic, it’s nearly impossible to squeeze it through a hole. And in my case IT WONT GO.
When I measured the opening on my side cover I came up with 14mm, measuring the diameter of the grommet, where it’s supposed to fit in the opening, is 16mm. It’s too big for the opening, and even if I could squeeze it down into that hole, I’d never get the metal inner sleeve back in.
Has ANYONE ever made this thing work? I’m ready to go to the hardware store and look at grommets.
Ah well, I’m in no rush. Summer is here in a big way.......110 degrees coming Wednesday.
The first of very many I’m afraid.
Later,
Bob
Got my top head stay mounts put back on, after having them off to re torque my head.
I had my carbs on and off several times fussing with fuel line routing and checking clearances. Then put them on for good , along with the air boxes and got everything buttoned up.
My bike had these crappy clear vinyl tubes that were being used as my breather tubes. I was looking at these things and thinking how much I didn’t like them, when I remembered I had bought some bulk black tubing when I did my XS2, so snip snip, I made some new ones, and got them installed.
Then I moved on to what I thought would be some really easy jobs. At least one was.....
This photo is for reference. You know those rubber dampers that mount in those holes in the front of the side covers? ( photo from my XS2). Those are factory, two of them from Partzilla with shipping is nearly $18 !!!
They’re just little rubber buttons! So I started looking for an alternative on EBay.
What I found are speaker parts, little rubber speaker feet. $5 and free shipping for a bag of them.
They are dimensionally perfect.
And here they are on my 77D.
Now here is my dilemma of the day. ( There always has to be one right? )
My new replacement side cover latch assemblies from Mikes XS. Photo shows the inner metal sleeve removed for installation.
Except, I cannot squeeze that sucker in there, no how, no way. The thing that looks like a rubber bushing feels like barely flexible plastic, it’s nearly impossible to squeeze it through a hole. And in my case IT WONT GO.
When I measured the opening on my side cover I came up with 14mm, measuring the diameter of the grommet, where it’s supposed to fit in the opening, is 16mm. It’s too big for the opening, and even if I could squeeze it down into that hole, I’d never get the metal inner sleeve back in.
Has ANYONE ever made this thing work? I’m ready to go to the hardware store and look at grommets.
Ah well, I’m in no rush. Summer is here in a big way.......110 degrees coming Wednesday.
The first of very many I’m afraid. Later,
Bob
That's probably gonna be your best bet Bob. Might want to add your comments on that knob here.
What's the OD of the metal sleeve?
Have a look here.
