Getting bad exhaust studs out?

gggGary

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Have an engine showing up at noon; broken, mangled exhaust studs, previous attempts made. What's worked for you? Gory details, :sick: methods,:guns: attempts, :umm: progress,:cheers: PICTURES to follow.
The Meatball Garage, in action.
 
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No luck yet, project on hold as other more formidable problem with landlord wife going on.
 
Back in the ol' shop daze, all I could do was to drill them out. Progressing from small to larger bits, frequent resharpening from those doggone hard studs. Deep enuff to relieve the stud bottoming. Easy-out after each drill attempt. Sometimes successful, some had to go all the way to uncoiling the residual threads.

Gonna try this?

http://www.xs650.com/threads/removing-exhaust-studs-with-alum.46194/

Edit: I still like this trick of yours.

http://www.xs650.com/threads/meatball-mechanic-valve-cover-stripped-stud-hole-repair.28729/
 
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So welded nuts not work, rust too solid. Drilled one out, try easy out, drill little larger, try another easy out, drill larger till crown of threads, part of stud come out...probably have to drill out again and use next size larger (1/4-20) studs...but on hold for now unfortunately.
 
Mostly let pics do talking
Welded nut on three times weld snapped off bolt first and second time, heated bolt red hot several times with acetylene torch. then bolt snapped behind the nut.


nut.
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depth of the stud from face.

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The rest of it.
Drills walked a bit, hole is threaded and will hold the header.
The hoyer patient lift works good.
This set of LH drills excellent, walked right through that stud, jumping 2 or 3 sizes at a time. Biggest was 1/4" I went up to thread ID with RH drills.
neither of the easy outs budged it. And I was on em hard as I dared.
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Sorry pics are kinda random order.
 
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Welding a nut on is my first option, when they break off weld another one on.
I have seen on youtube Alum will erode a stud but not aluminium. It takes time and some warmth but appears to work well. I have not needed to try it yet but intend to.
 
I only used an easy-out once and when it broke I vowed never to use one again.

The whole premise is wrong . Screwing in an easy-out until it bites and then turning it ....just increases the pressure between the broken stud or bolt and the aluminium
...........the harder you turn the easy out the greater the expansion of the easy out taper in the broken stud or bolt ,
Its analogous to trying to remove a stud from the jaws of a vice .......which squeezes harder on the stud ...the more you pull on the stud..

if I cannot get the jaws of a pair of Stilsons on the stud then drilling is always the best option before further damage is caused to the head or stud and I always recommend using a proper drill stand for accuracy. How much is a replacement head going to cost !...;)
 
Yeah not my proudest moment...
the hole is better straighter than the pic makes it look LOL.
This was kind of a hack throw away third guy to try deal. Only did the one stud and that's prolly enough for me, :doh: Would tend towards; grind the bosses thinner on an exhaust collar, use nuts but no lock washers and leave the existing studs on the other side. But it's not my motor, guy had already bought, installed a replacement motor. :shrug:
 
Yeah not my proudest moment...
the hole is better straighter than the pic makes it look LOL.
This was kind of a hack throw away third guy to try deal. Only did the one stud and that's prolly enough for me, :doh: Would tend towards; grind the bosses thinner on an exhaust collar, use nuts but no lock washers and leave the existing studs on the other side. But it's not my motor, guy had already bought, installed a replacement motor. :shrug:

I wasn't criticizing your efforts G :) i'm the first to resort to mechanical bodgery if I think i can get away with it


Easy-outs are a major bugbear of mine :mad:
 
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