MikesXS Electronic Ignition Kit

I'm rooting for Mike's to make this a good product, with good instructions, and members here can help that happen.

Another scenario.....We help Mike's make a better product and threads like this will help us to finalize and simplify our own instructions.

ZACKLEY!
 
Pamco on this site touch's a nerve with a lot of people and it seems like it has for years. Whether it came from Pete himself or the Mikes knock off. I really like the one I got from Pete years ago and now I wish I had bought a just in case backup when I could.That being said I'll probably get one from Mikes and hope I never need it.
 
Pamco
pamco e-advance.JPG

Mikes
mikes e-advance.JPG
 
Why should we encourage Mike's?? What I have suggested previously is that we ALL develop a group DIY ignition (perhaps with Pete's help) so ANYONE that can solder can build one. The E-Advance would be a piece of cake to DIY (just soldering) but the trigger would take a bit more, unless you already have the OEM advance rod. and such means to machine the trigger parts. But I'm sure, as a group, could get someone to manufacture them at a decent price. And those with the means could make their own. After all......Pete's first go was DIY as well. >>>> http://xs650temp.proboards.com/thread/8035
Been thinkin' about playing with this thing. 50 bucks shipped. No need to reinvent the wheel.

3MAR2C2L.jpg
 
DIY ? HAH ! Pete had long experience in the electronics field being the one who made the bits to convert the telephone to touch tone.
Pete started developing the ignition for His Own Bike and originally made his trigger plate from a gerber baby food lid.
Problems with the system come from high heat and he solved this by hunting down the highest quality heat tolerant bits.
His price was giveaway to help the XS riders and he never set out to make high profit.
Boyers ( both red and blue box ) often burned a hole thru the box due to using low quality components.
I called them on this and they admitted to this and to shipping them out anyway !
 
Why should we encourage Mike's?? What I have suggested previously is that we ALL develop a group DIY ignition (perhaps with Pete's help) so ANYONE that can solder can build one.
Just copy Mike's ignition :) Turn about is fair play...
Actually, in your link Pete offers $100 to the first person who makes his own Gerber lid ignition. Didn't look at the details but he says it's simple. Make those....
 
JAX71224 - I may be willing to sell it to you once I get this bike running and am sure we have a reliable bike for my friend Scott to ride/use.
All good, no hurry but if not going to need anymore, I will probably always keep my points-style ignition and would probably make an offer on the points plate as well if you get your electronic setup reliable and stable and are confident in it.
 
The ULTIMATE PAYBACK BURN from Pete to Mike'sXS would be for him to make public his PCB artwork, schematics and component list for his ignition trigger and advance unit as well as the mechanical specs for the replacement hardware.

84FE0B0F-FDD5-4F22-8B6A-F2F30F0DD6AA.jpeg
 
The fuse holder you found in post #44 is the original and correct for your model, but it should have a 20A fuse in it. The Standard models like yours had only one fuse for the whole bike, a 20 amp main fuse


Based on this feedback, I have replaced the original fuse holder with the newer blade type with a new 20A fuse!

new-main-fuse.jpg

http://www.roadstercycle.com/
 
Does this original "regulator" component on the left side of the battery box need to be present with the new ignition system?

oem-regulator.jpg
 
Can someone describe to me what to expect when the ignition key is turned? In the first position, the neutral safety light comes on along with the headlight (Light switch is on), and the taillight. In the next position, the headlight goes off, and when I hit the start button, nothing happens.

ignition-key-1.jpg


ignition-key-2.jpg
 
Can someone describe to me what to expect when the ignition key is turned? In the first position, the neutral safety light comes on along with the headlight (Light switch is on), and the taillight. In the next position, the headlight goes off, and when I hit the start button, nothing happens.

View attachment 143861

View attachment 143862

The first position is the one you use to start and ride the bike.

As I understand it, the second position is some sort of "parking" position which allows the lights to work but I think that the key can be withdrawn from the lock. I guess you would use that if you had to leave your bike somewhere and wanted to be able to mark its position in the dark (say beside a roadway). I must admit that I have never actually used the second position so I may have some of that incorrect.

Pete
 
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