It's past time to start XS2 Resurrection

Decided to use a somewhat local welding shop for the case repair. Dropped the case off Tuesday and they called today saying it was done. So went and picked it up. Looks much better than I could have done. He said he V'd the crack and welded it on both sides. I think it looks good. Can't leak any worse than it did. Now I can do final cleanup on cases and start reassembly. Also drop off the upper end parts at machine shop for the work that they need.
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Things slowed down a bit as I had to go out of town for 10 days. Finally got the engine cases cleaned up some. I'm thinking of leaving the lower half " au naturel".

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The upper case is almost cleaned up. It will get painted with POR-15.
Question for Jim or anybody else that has used POR-15. What is the best way to prep the case? I ordered their metal prep for aluminum AP-120. Is their something better? I read where it brushes on very well, that is how I plan on putting it on.

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The lump is looking better.
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I ordered their metal prep for aluminum AP-120. Is their something better? I read where it brushes on very well, that is how I plan on putting it on.
I use Alumiprep 33, but that's just 'cause I have a few gallons left from my airplane days. :rolleyes: The AP-120 should work just fine. All you're expecting from it is a good acid wash to remove any contaminates (oil, grease etc.).
I'm pretty happy with the POR-15... with one caveat... the silver dried to a dull gloss. It actually looks exactly like the factory paint however, I wanted a high gloss. On my next engine, I'll top that with a good 2 part epoxy or urethane clear.
 
I use Alumiprep 33, but that's just 'cause I have a few gallons left from my airplane days. :rolleyes: The AP-120 should work just fine. All you're expecting from it is a good acid wash to remove any contaminates (oil, grease etc.).
I'm pretty happy with the POR-15... with one caveat... the silver dried to a dull gloss. It actually looks exactly like the factory paint however, I wanted a high gloss. On my next engine, I'll top that with a good 2 part epoxy or urethane clear.
Thanks Jim!
Factory is what I am after.
 
Looks really nice and I agree, the welding looks good.

I had a ‘75 B back in the day and I had a master link fail which cracked the case (thinking about it now, I was lucky it didn’t lock up the rear wheel and toss me over the bars). I had it welded and after a little while, I never even noticed it anymore.

Pete
 
I use a spray bottle.... old Windex bottle or sumpin like that.
For the prep or the paint?
GLJ said:
I read where it brushes on very well, that is how I plan on putting it on.
I was referring to the paint. My bad I phrased my post badly.
 
Lookin good buddy! I want to see how that paint turns out. I don’t remember, is it your intent to keep this motor as a spare, or are you going to install it as soon as you’re done?
 
Decided to use a somewhat local welding shop for the case repair. Dropped the case off Tuesday and they called today saying it was done. So went and picked it up. Looks much better than I could have done. He said he V'd the crack and welded it on both sides. I think it looks good. Can't leak any worse than it did. Now I can do final cleanup on cases and start reassembly. Also drop off the upper end parts at machine shop for the work that they need.
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This was posted the other day........How they strengthened the club racer, (i mentioned how they had the same problem), mount on the case.
http://www.xs650.org.au/Club Racer Stuff/club racer report 2019/club_racer_report_2019.htm

Honestly i think the guy welding should have suggested strengthening that area.........
 
Getting ready to change the rear sprocket from a 38 tooth to a 34 tooth. No more racing Sportys.
The 38 makes the bike very quick, trouble is if you grab a hand full of throttle shifting it is like playing footsies with a bobcat.
Reminded me of riding a 125 Elsinore.
Also got stuff coming to get the original tank back on.
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Got a few things done this week. Painted top half of engine cases. Brushed it on. I sure it would be better to spray it on. Kind of like the rest of the bike. Looks good from 10 feet, up close not so much. It's on and I think it will stay.
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Replaced front and rear sprockets. I had a small oil leak coming from behind the left cover. Was expecting it to be the counter shaft sprocket leaking. It was bone dry on the backside of it. Clutch push rod seal looked good.
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Looked further. I knew the chain had been thrown on this engine. Case above sprocket was cracked/broke. What I hadn't noticed was how far the case was cracked. I have to be the luckiest guy on earth to own two XS2 engines with broken cases. Oh well.
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It was not a very big leak. After riding for an hour or so there would be 2 or 3 drops of oil under it the next morning. Decided I would try to slow it down or at least keep it from getting worse. This engine is coming out as soon as I get the original engine ready. Cleaned everything as good as I could with a brass wheel on the Dremel. Then hosed it down with brake clean followed by carb spray and compressed air. Then packed the cracks and bearing face with Yamabond 4. Since I have to go to Brampton for 5 days it will get plenty of time to cure.
One last thing since I had squeezed out a bit too much Yamabond I decided to use it on the counter shaft sprocket even tho it didn't show any signs of leaking. I cleaned the shaft and spacer. Then filled the grooves of the splines. Put on the sprocket and lock tab. Then tightened it up. Shouldn't hurt any thing. My theory is the sprocket will push it in between the spacer and shaft. Also it should end up between the sprocket and spacer. I don't think the sprocket could push enough into the engine to cause any problems.
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