Batteryless xs650 capacitor fell off during ride

jim.. awesome video!
just did each test he did
not sure what i did wrong the first time, but this is what i got

black probe to red wire red probe to yellows
1/.480
2/.487
3/.503

red probe to red wire black probe to yellows
1/OL
2/OL
3/OL

black probe to black wire red probe to yellows
1/OL
2/OL
3/OL

red probe to black wire black probe to yellows
1/OL
2/OL
3/OL

black probe to red wire red probe to yellows ( on 2M ohms setting)
1/1.079
2/1.677
3/1.180

red probe to black wire black probe to yellows ( on 2M ohms setting )
1/OL
2/OL
3/OL

as far as i can tell all the numbers are suppose to be in range of each other, but i dont have enough knowledge to declare if its bad or good. what do you guys think?
 
Another point..........you can use a car battery to test power through the bike loom...........NOTE;..make sure the car is not running or accidentally started if your using cables while the battery is in the car.......better still remove one of the battery terminals, at least, or take the battery out of the car altogether.
when i hook the battery up to the bike, should i give it a kick and see what happens?
and what will i be looking for?
would it just be a means of supplying power to the bike so i can do further test?
 
i was just looking over my list and i think i skipped a test. im going to double check all my test and report back with more numbers.
 
Having no on/off switch or fuses is a problem, when hooking up a battery, the whole loom will be alive from the get go...........i just made the suggestion about the battery so there was no confusion about how to, in case the car was running to keep the battery charged.

I don't think running power through the loom is necessary to check anything............This can be done when the bike is started and then power voltage reading can be checked.

Sorry i didn't mean to side track.........just a precaution
 
ok triple checked all numbers and contacts to make sure its reading and this is what im getting from the rectifier

black probe to red wire red probe to yellows ( on diode/ continuity)
1/.478
2/.485
3/.502

red probe to red wire black probe to yellows ( on diode/ continuity)
1/OL
2/OL
3/OL

black probe to black wire red probe to yellows ( on diode/ continuity)
1/OL
2/OL
3/OL

red probe to black wire black probe to yellows ( on diode/ continuity)
1/OL
2/OL
3/OL

black probe to red wire red probe to yellows ( on 2M ohm setting)
1/ 1.683
2/ 1.178
3/ 1.044

red probe to black wire black probe to yellows ( on 2M ohm setting)
1/OL
2/OL
3/OL

black probe to black wire red probe to yellows ( on 2M ohm setting)
1/OL
2/OL
3/OL

red probe to red wire black probe to yellows ( on 2M ohm setting )
1/OL
2/OL
3/OL
 
Yeah... that's no good. You're missing half your bridge.
...And just for your info, you said... "black probe to red wire red probe to yellows ( on diode/ continuity)." On the diode function, you're not checking continuity, you're looking at voltage drop across the diode. The number .502 for example means you're losing a half a volt... it has nothing to do with resistance/continuity.
 
Yeah... that's no good. You're missing half your bridge.
...And just for your info, you said... "black probe to red wire red probe to yellows ( on diode/ continuity)." On the diode function, you're not checking continuity, you're looking at voltage drop across the diode. The number .502 for example means you're losing a half a volt... it has nothing to do with resistance/continuity.
thanks for the info that makes sense. the only reason i put that is because on my multimeter the instructions say to check the continuity with a specific setting and then the intructions for checking diode says to put it on that very same setting.
 
instructions say to check the continuity with a specific setting and then the intructions for checking diode says to put it on that very same setting.
Yeah, I've seen that before too. I've also seen meters where the diode function was included inside the resistance scales. Only thing I can figure is the Chinese are copying stuff without understanding exactly what they're copying. :doh: If you look at your readout, when you switch to "diode", a V should pop up... indicating you're reading is in volts. I think I pointed that out in the rectifier test video.
 
multimeter.jpg
this is my multimeter the diode/ continuity funtions is the arrow with the plus sigh a couple clicks to the right. i dont get a v on the screen when i switch to that function. or any of the functions for that matter ?
 
Justa something to consider when running high-capacity capacitors, like the Sparx.

Fully charged to +12v, a 15,000mfd Sparx capacitor will light one of your tiny 3w instrument bulbs for just under 1 second.

Assemble 8 AAA batteries into a little 12v gang, and they will illuminate that tiny 3w instrument bulb for anywhere from 3 to 5 hours.

That little AAA battery pack has 10,000 to 18,000 times the storage capacity of the Sparx.

Multiply that by 15 to compare to a regular motorcycle battery...
 
Justa something to consider when running high-capacity capacitors, like the Sparx.

Fully charged to +12v, a 15,000mfd Sparx capacitor will light one of your tiny 3w instrument bulbs for just under 1 second.

Assemble 8 AAA batteries into a little 12v gang, and they will illuminate that tiny 3w instrument bulb for anywhere from 3 to 5 hours.

That little AAA battery pack has 10,000 to 18,000 times the storage capacity of the Sparx.

Multiply that by 15 to compare to a regular motorcycle battery...

My 2HP VFD runs it's cooling fan for about 10 seconds after I unplug it.
Still makes me do a double take...
 
Ever have a cap. from an old audio power amp tag ya? :yikes:
 
Just outloud thinkin' here.
Typical lead/acid batteries have an intrinsic internal resistance of a fraction to almost 3 ohms. Signal filters and power dampers usually use a capacitor and resistor in series, known as an RC (Resistor Cap) filter.

I don't know what, if any, internal resistance exists in the Sparx capacitor. But, suppose you were to add an Ohmite power resistor, of say 1 or 2 ohms, in series with the Sparx. A capacitor by itself acts like a voltage spring. The resistor would dampen some of that springyness. Maybe the budget regulators would appreciate that...

Edit: I don't have a dog in this hunt. Just throwin' chum in the water...
 
Your 4th test certainly shows a failure:

red probe to black wire black probe to yellows ( on diode/ continuity)
1/OL
2/OL
3/OL

It appears that the red wire is indeed connected to the internals.

The black wire may have a break or disconnect somewhere. It's rather untypical to lose all 3 diodes at once. Just something to check...
 
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