1981 Yamaha XS650S - Project Bike #5

Chain guard clearance is often an issue with aftermarket shocks because many have larger diameter bodies and the springs sit down lower on them than stock shocks.
 
I plan a TX750 swingarm swap on my Special eventually and one of the things that concerns me is chain guard clearance. I will be using (or trying to) the TX750 chain guard as well. Since these parts came off a standard style bike with more upright rear shocks, I may have issues with the chain guard cut-out not being located where it needs to be. But, I'll cross that bridge when and if I come to it. The swingarm is going on there whether the chain guard fits or not, lol.
 
TX parts just don’t ever turn up even way out west where I do get pretty lucky. But always lookin
-R
 
I contacted Ikon USA through their website and a guy named Nils Menten responded right away! I explained what I wanted to do and he was able to get the factory to make me a set of 13.5" shocks for no extra charge! I just ordered them for $280!! I'm so impressed with their customer response and service. I hope the shocks look and work out well!
 
That's cheap for Ikons. Did that include springs too? And offset bottom eyes?
 
I've got some information on tubeless valve stems for the cast XS650 wheels. This is a cut & paste off the ST Owners website (for Honda ST1100 and ST1300 sport touring bikes - all of which run tubeless tires). The thing with these bikes is that the brake rotors are so large that it is quite difficult to get an air chuck on a conventional straight valve stem. Soooo..., many ST Owners use 90-degree angled stems and they are MUCH more convenient to use.

Here is the post ( I think the vendor is www.slowboyracing.com )
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From your favorite local vendor; 90 Degree Drop Forged Aluminum Angled Tire Valve Stems in various colors...

All_Colors_zps11d8766c.jpg

Available in: Black, Red, Silver, Gold, Blue

Available in both 11.3mm and 8.3mm

For our bikes <i.e. Honda ST1100 and ST1300> and most Japanese bikes you will need the 11.3mm but if you have Carrozzeria, Galespeed, OZ, Marchesini, Marvic and BST wheels you will need the 8.3mm ones. These are the same valve stems which come from the factory on the fancy italian bikes (Ducati, Aprillia, etc) and many MotoGP, WSBK, Moto2 teams use these valve stems.

Generally race teams like to run a different color valve stem than the wheel so that they can easily spot the valve stem. They are made in Italy and are the same valves which are sold under the Ariete brand for much more. What they do?
  • Easier to check pressure and fill tires (specially on the front)
  • Lighter than rubber stems - they weigh in at 11 grams each
  • They are reusable, no need to replace them like rubber valves with each tire change
  • Fixed to the wheel with a locking nut, can't bend, or be expelled from the wheel
  • The angled quill reduces the effect of centrifugal force, which tends to fling the valve core outwards in a conventional valve, leading to loss of pressure in tires.
Installation
Torque the locking nut to 7-10 Nm
How long before I receive my reservoir socks once I place an order?
  • USA shipping times are 1-3 business days (Ships from NY)
  • Canadian shipping times are 4-5 business days (Ships from Canada)
  • Other International locations 6-8 business days (Ships from NY)
How much?
  • $26.95 Shipped for the set to USA & Canada (MSRP is $29.95)
  • International orders will receive a PayPal request of $3 USD for extra shipping charges once they have placed orders.
How do I place an order?
  • Simply use the BUY NOW buttons below to place your orders. If you are using a mobile device and getting an error from PayPal when you click the BUY NOW buttons, simply send me a PM and I'll send you the PayPal email address to directly send the payment. Some mobile devices are not compatible.
11.3mm Black - Pair
BLACK_113.jpg





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11.3mm Silver - Pair
SILVER_112.jpg
 
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Yup - and I have a set of 90 deg. stems on my ST but they are silver like the rims. I had never thought about the idea of using a different colour to make the stem easier to locate.

Anyhow - my bike came with the angled stems and I think that they are Honda aftermarket units - but the SlowBoyRacing.com stems look good too.
 
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Doesn't help the esthetics. Just use a temporary elbow on the original valve if you need one. If the color helps you locate the stem, you need eye surgery.
 
Doesn't help the esthetics. Just use a temporary elbow on the original valve if you need one. If the color helps you locate the stem, you need eye surgery.

...and your many years as an eye surgeon confirms that?
 
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Xjwmx, it was me. Just out off curiosity I tried all sorts of common junk to recap the mixture screw to avoid making something on the lathe. I tried a glass fuse end and it was just perfect. If I were to do it again I would drill and solder some sort of pin/nail/etc pressed through from the inside so it is easy to remove with pliers at a later date.
 
I've got some information on tubeless valve stems for the cast XS650 wheels. This is a cut & paste off the ST Owners website (for Honda ST1100 and ST1300 sport touring bikes - all of which run tubeless tires). The thing with these bikes is that the brake rotors are so large that it is quite difficult to get an air chuck on a conventional straight valve stem. Soooo..., many ST Owners use 90-degree angled stems and they are MUCH more convenient to use.

Here is the post ( I think the vendor is www.slowboyracing.com )

I don't think this business/source is available any longer. At least I couldn't find it under that domain or name. However, a search on Amazon located what appears to be the same product for about the same price. So, they are ordered! My new Avon's arrived today!

avon-front.jpg


avon-rear.jpg
 
Xjwmx, it was me. Just out off curiosity I tried all sorts of common junk to recap the mixture screw to avoid making something on the lathe. I tried a glass fuse end and it was just perfect. If I were to do it again I would drill and solder some sort of pin/nail/etc pressed through from the inside so it is easy to remove with pliers at a later date.
Thanks, yes. Might be able to just tap in a sharp awl to pry it out. I think xsJohn came up with some cover too, but I don't remember what it was. Also, at one point Mike sold replacement plugs. Don't know if still.
 
I don't see the point of plugging it up again. Just put a drop of oil in it occasionally if you're worried about it getting corroded. If I had to plug it, I think I'd look for a rubber plug or cap of some sort.
 
Or a blob of blue waterproof grease. I'd rather set it and forget it forever though. One BS34 mix screw I took out that had been exposed raw to the elements for years was a pain. I'd probably just get the Mike replacement caps and just tap them in enough to hold, so I could get pliers on them later. Combined with a blob of blue grease under it
 
OK, I made more progress over the weekend and today.

I removed the old Dunlop tires and mounted the new Avon Roadriders... which look great! Although, I can't understand why tire manufacturers are not marking the heavy point on their tires. This is the second set of new tires I've received in recent months with no markings! Argh!

I removed the stock seat cover and started mocking up how I might trim down the foam, and re-upholster the seat into more of a flat, cafe look. I have not started cutting metal yet, but it looks like I may remove the seat latch and some of the tabs for the grab bar, rear lights, etc.

I fitted Euro-style handlebars to replace the drag-style bars that were on the bike which gives it a better line and riding position.

081219-side-view.jpg


I'm thinking about bobbing the rear fender for a more streamlined, shorter look, and the front a bit shorter top and bottom. I've done a similar mod on my Triumph Bonneville projects. I fitted gaiters from MikesXS, but they seem long and don't "accordion fold" very nicely, so I will probably remove them. The plastic "Yamaha" tags for the tank are cracked near the screw holes, so I will probably need to find replacements.

081219-left-front-view.jpg


I also installed the battery box to visualize where and how I'm going to mount stuff.
 
The MikesXS gaiters, like most aftermarket rubber stuff, are crap, paper thin and don't last long. You're supposed to remove the original wiper rubbers before fitting the gaiters, lol. I use truck shock gaiters, cheap and last forever.
 
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