I just took the head lamp mounts off the forks on my 80 xs650 special G and all I did was take them off from the top, so removing handlebars and gauge mounts all at once, took them off, put it back together. and my lower steering stem is literally sticking to the center. Such as I turn left and right and it feels like a super powerful magnet grabs the column and wants to stick it in place on exactly center. if I lightly steer, you can literally watch it go back to center place by itself. did I some how do something? lol
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Steering column center locking
- Thread starter Grimmith
- Start date
The steering head bearings are shot. The races that the balls roll in are dimpled, that's why it's "self-centering" itself. While you had the top tree off, you may have inadvertently tightened down the 2 notched rings more that apply the pressure to the steering head bearings. That would accentuate the issue and make it more noticeable.
Three words: Tapered steering bearings.
Avatar Green bike ? Yes , very likely needs some steering stem bearing attention at least ..
Avatar Green bike ? Yes , very likely needs some steering stem bearing attention at least ..
actually it's "Lizard Skin Pearl" lol but it's not that bike in my picture, that's my 77650 D. This convo is for my 80 650 special G, is there a huge difference between the special I and special II ?
The main difference in the standards and specials is the upper shock mount. They moved it forward and down. This tilted the rear shock forward.
Gives the bike more of the Harley style cruiser look.
There are a few other minor differences in rear foot peg mounts and the frame side covers and the seat,were redesigned to give it more the cruiser look.
Mechanically they didn't change much.
In this instance, head bearings, no changes. So if you buy the tapered bearing kit it fits all years.
All Balls is the preferred vendor.
Leo
Gives the bike more of the Harley style cruiser look.
There are a few other minor differences in rear foot peg mounts and the frame side covers and the seat,were redesigned to give it more the cruiser look.
Mechanically they didn't change much.
In this instance, head bearings, no changes. So if you buy the tapered bearing kit it fits all years.
All Balls is the preferred vendor.
Leo
I meant special 1 and 2 but no there is not a special 1 I just put that because lol, I'm aware it's special and special II
Yes, you need two hooked spanner wrenches .....
The two notched ring nuts tighten against one another to lock them in position. You need two wrenches so you can hold one while you tighten the other against it or they'll both spin. You can usually find them cheap on eBay (less than $10 a pair) in the needed size pictured (45-52mm).
A note on the notched ring nuts. If you examine them, you'll find one side is pretty much flat, the other is beveled around the I.D. They should be installed beveled side facing beveled side. They tighten together more progressively and with more "feel" like this. This also presents a flatter surface facing down on the bottom ring to preload the bearing and a flatter surface facing up on the upper ring to support the top triple tree .....
The two notched ring nuts tighten against one another to lock them in position. You need two wrenches so you can hold one while you tighten the other against it or they'll both spin. You can usually find them cheap on eBay (less than $10 a pair) in the needed size pictured (45-52mm).
A note on the notched ring nuts. If you examine them, you'll find one side is pretty much flat, the other is beveled around the I.D. They should be installed beveled side facing beveled side. They tighten together more progressively and with more "feel" like this. This also presents a flatter surface facing down on the bottom ring to preload the bearing and a flatter surface facing up on the upper ring to support the top triple tree .....
One of these dayz...
Other models of newer Yamaha's use a rubber washer between the two nuts and a washer with a tang that drops into both nut's slots. this locks the steering bearing when the top triple is tightened against the top nut with the cap nut but does NOT change the preload as you no longer have to tighten the second nut. New bearings can be quickly ruined if you overload them with the nuts.
A good improvement to try on an XS650??
If you do this and have stock headlight "ears" you will need to add spacers to make up for the increased height, about 3/16" ??
Other models of newer Yamaha's use a rubber washer between the two nuts and a washer with a tang that drops into both nut's slots. this locks the steering bearing when the top triple is tightened against the top nut with the cap nut but does NOT change the preload as you no longer have to tighten the second nut. New bearings can be quickly ruined if you overload them with the nuts.
A good improvement to try on an XS650??
If you do this and have stock headlight "ears" you will need to add spacers to make up for the increased height, about 3/16" ??
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Oh snap! O didnt know the ears increased the height slightly. Ill measure and check once home...there wasnt #6 or #8 after taking the handle bars and top portion of the tree off....but if i can find the right sizes it should be fine right?
Your bike doesn't have 6 and 8. That parts diagram is from a different newer model. Go to the Partzilla web site and look up the parts diagram for your model. That will show you what all should be there.
Tapered bearings may also raise the top triple a little.
Seating the new races isn't trivial. It's work to get them all the way in and seated all around without damaging them. If you don't get it the first time you'll be retightening them in a couple hundred miles. The click click when you use the front brake will be your clue.
Seating the new races isn't trivial. It's work to get them all the way in and seated all around without damaging them. If you don't get it the first time you'll be retightening them in a couple hundred miles. The click click when you use the front brake will be your clue.
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All Balls Racing bearings. Knock out your races by any means necessary, install new ones, bearing, seat and seal on the bottom, push that sucker up, bearing, seat and seal on the top, and you’re good to go. Dont over tighten.
