She should of hid the van keys

Wasn't pay'n attention, it's a "nikasil" coated cylinder.....So might NOT hone..

I know for sure Roadstar are nikasil coated cylinders and was told to never hone. Dont know anyone on the Roadstar Clinic that had to hone anyways :shrug: Some guys have over 200,000 miles and counting on stock bore!:yikes: Hope you get it up and goin soon Gary. JC
 
Yeah debated the hone but I doubt a light ball home did any harm, saw some numbers RE nikasil thickness vs hone material removal, seems there is plenty of material, and wanting new rings to "seat" seems like a reasonable risk benefit, trade off. Rings were not cheap $82 for ONE piston. In any case the hone is done.
FWIW the LH piston top is uniformly covered with carbon, not mostly washed clean like the RH. This may be a head scratcher. There's some whispers on the inter-webs RE oil consumption, small sump, sump extension kits exist. Currently the ergo's don't work for me. First up is a handlebar change. Looking for a "higher" bar with not much pull back.
 
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You better closely check the handlebar size. Many Euro bikes use 22mm, not 7/8" bars. 7/8" is slightly larger and may not fit down into the handlebar clamps, and the control assemblies may not fit on. You may want to test fit some 7/8" bars you have on hand before buying any.
 
Back on the road!
20190815_151132.jpg
Runs good, quiet, no leaks, more power, ;)
Will put on some miles, check synch, retorque cylinder studs, reset valves, check plugs and compression.
 
Back on the road!
View attachment 147513
Runs good, quiet, no leaks, more power, ;)
Will put on some miles, check synch, retorque cylinder studs, reset valves, check plugs and compression.

Man you do fast work! And you saved that bike, I believe it was headed for the dusty back corner of someone’s garage , and eventually the scrap heap. Well done! :thumbsup:
D7AFEEF7-A2C2-4F5B-B6C5-62859E2195ED.gif
 
DTSSF!
OK I think I have the story now.
After the overhaul and running good Thursday, I checked compression Friday morning (155), and went out for a 100 mile ride. Part way though, the PO's problem returned, on down shifting and coming to a stop the motor would quit. Restart, hold light throttle for a bit and it would idle just fine. Stayed that way the whole ride. Got home, down shifted the last hill. pulled the clutch, motor quit, coasted in. Later pulled the plug,
20190818_160240.jpg

it was dry just a little dark no soot no oil, did a compression test, RH 60 pounds, CRAP! Parked it and walked away.
Did some other projects and thought on it. This morning I decided to do what I should have done a week ago.
DTSSF!
Do the simple (stuff) first
Checked valve clearances, they were both completely tight.
Torqued head bolts, again, and set valves, all is good, runs great, compression 160PSI.
So here's my thoughts, When I checked compression and found it low, tight valve clearance on this side (IE none) was the original problem.
Unfortunately I had done some internet "research" and found several "bad head gasket was the problem " posts. I got in a hurry, EXPECTING to find a bad gasket and did the tear down BEFORE I did the simple stuff first. Then when the head gasket appeared to have been fine, I was lost as to what the problem had been. So did the usual, fix everything near to hand, and put it back together, hope the problem disappears.
This is a push rod motor. When I first removed the head, the studs were not very tight, far from spec. These engines, like XS650's like to be retorqued, manual calls out a 600 mile from new head stud torque. My guess; it either was not done or like I did, it was torqued, valves set, buttoned back up. When the gasket squeezes down it takes away valve clearance. Way above you will find a pic of the exhaust valve not seating. Pretty sure now it was just no clearance causing it to leak.
So if I had DTSSF I could have avoided a day and half labor and $180 in parts and machining. And some choice thought RE Moto Guzzi and their engineers. Well I'll rack up some more miles, maybe check valves one more time. The interweb usually opines; keep Guzzi valves on the loose side, if you can hear the tappets the valves are happy, sound familiar?
 
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DTSSF!
OK I think I have the story now.
After the overhaul and running good Thursday, I checked compression Friday morning (155), and went out for a 100 mile ride. Part way though, the PO's problem returned, on down shifting and coming to a stop the motor would quit. Restart, hold light throttle for a bit and it would idle just fine. Stayed that way the whole ride. Got home, down shifted the last hill. pulled the clutch, motor quit, coasted in. Later pulled the plug,
View attachment 147685
it was dry just a little dark no soot no oil, did a compression test, RH 60 pounds, CRAP! Parked it and walked away.
Did some other projects and thought on it. This morning I decided to do what I should have done a week ago.
DTSSF!
Do the simple (stuff) first
Checked valve clearances, they were both completely tight.
Torqued head bolts, again, and set valves, all is good, runs great, compression 160PSI.
So here's my thoughts, When I checked compression and found it low, tight valve clearance on this side (IE none) was the original problem.
Unfortunately I had done some internet "research" and found several "bad head gasket was the problem " posts. I got in a hurry, EXPECTING to find a bad gasket and did the tear down BEFORE I did the simple stuff first. Then when the head gasket appeared to have been fine, I was lost as to what the problem had been. So did the usual, fix everything near to hand, and put it back together, hope the problem disappears.
This is a push rod motor. When I first removed the head, the studs were not very tight, far from spec. These engines, like XS650's like to be retorqued, manual calls out a 600 mile from new head stud torque. My guess; it either was not done or like I did, it was torqued, valves set, buttoned back up. When the gasket squeezes down it takes away valve clearance. Way above you will find a pic of the exhaust valve not seating. Pretty sure now it was just no clearance causing it to leak.
So if I had DTSSF I could have avoided a day and half labor and $180 in parts and machining. And some choice thought RE Moto Guzzi and there engineers. Well I'll rack up some more miles, maybe check valves one more time. The interweb usually opines; keep Guzzi valves on the loose side, if you can hear the tappets the valves are happy, sound familiar?

Wow! Well look on the bright side Gary. We had a lot of fun watching you figure this out! :D Seriously though, I did enjoy seeing how you reason your way through this. It’s always a learning experience. ( if an expensive one )
 
Wow! Well look on the bright side Gary. We had a lot of fun watching you figure this out! :D Seriously though, I did enjoy seeing how you reason your way through this. It’s always a learning experience. ( if an expensive one )
Well the good news is I called the PO last weekend and he sent a check for $200 to help cover the undisclosed issue.
 
So whatcha doin with your Guzzi? Is it up on Craigslist as we speak?

Now that you’re a certified Guzzi mechanic, here’s the one you want to replace your two wheeled land yacht!
You know who gave this rave reviews when they first came out? Your pal and neighbor Peter Egan! :)

https://milwaukee.craigslist.org/mcy/d/2008-moto-guzzi-california-vintage/6951709332.html

View attachment 148471
I'z just a putzer And just got back from about 50 miles of backroads with roadside stand sweet corn for dinner, the kind with no one around and the cash in a cook pot with a rock on the lid LOL, the hard cases are handy. A soft rack bag on the rear seat acting as a backrest and the handlebars turned high, not too bad for comfort. Would have to get the footpegs forward and down a bit. for long rides.
Hey MR.! mailman what in the heck are you doing nosing around in the MILWAUKEE MC classies???? Peter's the man.
 
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