Grimmith

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I found a few discussions on some racing material but couldn't find any builds or the best parts to use under certain racing standards. I'm trying to just start off Novice Historic Veteran racing through AHRMA which is basically stock motorcycle racing ( didn't want to start off going 200 lol). But I thought it would be cool to have a thread or areas in the forum for specific racing standards between stock and more upgraded 650's or other Yamaha's and the several motorcycle racing committees through the US or World, between road race, motocross, etc. . Unless there is a racing forum on here I missed lol

Forum members could post all of his or her knowledge on the racing builds specs done, or enhancements that are awesome, but still among racing standards. Currently I'm just trying to figure what nuts or bolts to drill holes in for lock wiring, or if I have to drill holes, maybe better ways. See what I mean?
 
I suggest you get hold of a set of the rules for the class that you intend to enter.
I think Gary Hoos is in Iowa he may point you in the right direction.

Craig Weeks modification guide from 650 Central has solid information on setting up XS 650's for racing. Its has sections on exhaust, carbs and other little mods. It is a worthwhile investment.


What are your plans flat track, road, solo or sidecar ?
 
Awesome Signal thank you! I do currently have the AHRMA racing rule book that I'm looking through everyday to just make sure I have memory of what I need for my class. Which is road racing, just with a stock engines in my class. I'm also talking a one of AHRMA's referees who has told me to get ahold of him personally if I have any questions. I think my hardest part to figure out is how to lock wire everything I need to lol I have all but the engine and steering column and forks off the frame. I need to grind off extra metal I don't need, including my kick and center stand, but that's last lol. Once I figure this carb issue and get the parts I need to fix them I'll be able to do much more work.
 
Here's mine, just down to the bare minimum apart from the fairing
FB_IMG_1561325873728.jpg
 
I am very still slow at lockwirng as you don't have to do it too often. I found this you tube clip which is very helpful.


A tip I have on lockwiring is to tighten the bolts you want to secure. Using a felt tip pen mark the faces of the heads that face the right way to get the right run of wire. Remove them, drill and refit then lockwire. Only one hole required unless you want to do cross over wiring.

I have tis photo on my phone to remind me which way the wire should run.
lock wire.jpg
 
Thanks Signal! This man has the same job as my great uncle lol. So I have to do this to every single nut and bolt that has a chance to "vibrate loose" ? including my oil drain bolt and filter bolts? do I lockwire any of the engine bolts or engine mount bolts? Banjo bolts? Is lockwire a specific type of wire or can it just be like the wire on the spools at a hardware store that are generally steel? I also didn't know we needed to lockwire the bolts on the disc brake, I thought that's what the lock tabs were for?
 
Here's mine, just down to the bare minimum apart from the fairingView attachment 148276
Did you keep your valves at stock settings? I'm racing a stock class for now so would maybe opening the intake valves from .002 to .003 or .003 to .004 be too hard on the engine? I'm just coming up with ideas to increase engine functionality without "breaking any rules" lol
 
and a wad of cash....

Yeah that's no shit...my friend and I were going to race his 2 CB750's just 3 years apart from the make/model year, but he's gone now and his family got rid of everything..... He was telling me about a company here in the US somewhere that literally mines titanium, and forges it into tail pipes. Stupid ass expensive lol like 2 and 3 thousand dollars for ONLY THE PIPES no exhaust tips or mounting brackets lol. I don't remember the name though...This is why the referee said he wasn't racing until he was 40 lol, lot's O monies :banghead:
 
Did you keep your valves at stock settings? I'm racing a stock class for now so would maybe opening the intake valves from .002 to .003 or .003 to .004 be too hard on the engine? I'm just coming up with ideas to increase engine functionality without "breaking any rules" lol
There's not much stock in my engine so wouldn't be able to help you there,
 
Thanks Signal! This man has the same job as my great uncle lol. So I have to do this to every single nut and bolt that has a chance to "vibrate loose" ? including my oil drain bolt and filter bolts? do I lockwire any of the engine bolts or engine mount bolts? Banjo bolts? Is lockwire a specific type of wire or can it just be like the wire on the spools at a hardware store that are generally steel? I also didn't know we needed to lockwire the bolts on the disc brake, I thought that's what the lock tabs were for?


The lock wire is stainless I believe and is available from bike shops, if offered thin or slightly thicker wire go for the thicker stuff.


The disc lock tabs would have been sufficient but the ones on hand were shot and it was cheaper to lockwire than buy new tabs.


You should check the rules applicable to you but I don’t think your rules would be vastly different to ours.

I can only answer in generalisations as I don’t know your rules you will have to research that yourself.


Most of it is simple stuff that you can do for very little expense.



Off the top of my head this is what is required here, I have probably forgotten something but it will give you an idea though.


Plug the handle bar ends, ensure the hand levers have balls on the end, lock wire the brake callipers, catch bottles on breather and carb overflows, kill switch and maybe tether switch, lock wire the sump plugs. Fit number boards the correct size and colour.


You may have to fit a shark fin to the swing arm, have some form of oil containment should the motor explode and a rain light. Check the rules or with the steward.


Go through the bike and make sure everything is functioning as well as it can, brakes change the fluid, clean the callipers, replace the lines, bead blast the discs, replace the pads. Check the throttle closes with a snap when released.


Change the fork oil. Check the swing arm bushes. Clean out the fuel tank.

All this won't break the bank.


Check the rules for what ignition, carbs and exhaust you can run. Although it is a stock class I doubt they would insist on these items being stock.


Go to a race meeting and start talking to the competitors about their bikes everyone loves talking about their bikes.

Watch the scrutineers take note of what they are checking.
 
Wow fantastic reply Signal:rock: I skimmed through my specific class racing rules a few times and you pretty much got a large majority of what I read, plus more. I have a few more questions if that's cool.

Is the shark fin for driving rain away from the tire?
Do I put one on the front?

Should or can my breather catch be the same as for my carb catch?

Yes I do need an oil catch underneath, How would I go about lock wiring it to the bottom of the engine?

Is this "rain light" just a small tail light for people to see you when it's raining?
Do I need one for the front? maybe a small one?
is it like a brake light or is it just a constant running light?

I'm a bit confused on what class I'm racing in, this referee at AHRMA says I can do "novice historic production heavy-weight" or "Sportsman 750" and it says xs650 in the sportsman section, but in the nhp heavy weight it says Yamaha RD5 and RD 350-400. But then above it says triumph: all 650/750 with two valve head or two - three cylinder. So it confused me.

I think that over time Once I learn and am sure of all the procedures and Rules, I'll see If I can type up a simplified version of AHRMA standards for current and future forum members :D
 
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There's not much stock in my engine so wouldn't be able to help you there,
Okay haha, well if I had stock parts on my engine, would opening the intake valves just slightly more increase speed or power? with equal carb adjustments as well.
 
Is the shark fin for driving rain away from the tire?
Do I put one on the front?

A shark fin if needed is an attachment to the underside of the swing arm in line with the chain run. Its purpose is to stop feet and hands being dragged into the rear sprocket by the chain.
gb_racing_shark_fin_chain_guard_triumph_daytona675_r_street_triple_r.jpg


Should or can my breather catch be the same as for my carb catch?
Yes you can use the same bottle, if you do make sure it is well vented. If not the pumping from the crankcase can pressurise the carbs through the overflows and make the bike run poorly (speaking from experience).

Yes I do need an oil catch underneath, How would I go about lock wiring it to the bottom of the engine?

Oil containment can be a real hassle, my best advice is to look at what others have done and copy /improve on that.
Most are not lockwired, do a search on Norlock nuts and washers they are great and don't wear out like nylocks.


Is this "rain light" just a small tail light for people to see you when it's raining?

Yes we use a non flashing bicycle tail light powered by an AA cell.

Do I need one for the front? maybe a small one?
No everyone always goes the same way on the track.


is it like a brake light or is it just a constant running light?
You could use the bikes tail light but a cycle one is smaller and a better idea all round.
Edit : click to expand the quote to see the rest of the answers I am not trying to fix it so they are out of the quote.
 
Stay with the stock valve clearance settings. No measurable change is available.

Depending on how involved you want to get, take a look at the BOT and F750 classes. That's where I'm headed (maybe)
View attachment 148520
This has been my dream ride for along time, have accumulated parts over the years. Could you elaborate on how you mounted the engine.
 
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